barnett clutch springs

[bikerphil]

Jeff, yes you do have to wind the kick starter spring, refer to pg. 3-42 of the FSM for the correct procedure.

[jjz28]

I also do not have a center stand so I just have the bike on the sidestand and raise it up straight when I check my oil through the glass window. When I took off the clutch side cover, I did not loose any oil. Should there have been more oil in there? If I raise the bike just a little the oil will start to come out but when its leaning on the sidestand it wont. Should my oil level be higher?

[Tat2demon]

Nope. On the side stand you can open that up. Makes it nice if you need to work on the clutch.

[jjz28]

Thanks, I was afraid maybe I didn't have enough oil.

[yamtom]

correct oil?

Hi,

I read the thread and dont see any reference to what kind of oil has been used in the bike. I dont want to get involved in any oil discussion here, but have read somewhere that modern auto oils are NOT appropriate for wet clutch bikes and have been known to cause slippage under some circumstances. If you follow the rest of the recommendations,, then I think one oil change should do the job as long as the new oil is the right oil.

I think ,,,otherwise,,,the recommended procedure is to ,, change the oil a couple of times to be sure that the old oil has worked its way out, change to wet clutch oil, or diesel oil, 15 40 I believe is what you want. Most seem to agree on rotella 15 40 although I am sure there are others that are good. Again, dont want to belabor this ,, if I am wrong set me straight, hahaha.

[TopCatGr58]

Just a minor correction. Yes, Dino oil vs. Synth is recommended. The manual states 20-50, but folks have used 10/15-40 in the winter months. Others have used Synth without slippage, but also had new strong springs and full spec frictions. YMMV. The other point is automotive oil has been found to be acceptable, as long as it doesn't have anything in the lower half of the SAE seal...you don't want it saying anything like friction modifiers.

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T.C.

[jjz28]

I run the correct oil since I have had the bike. I don't know what the PO had in it but I changed it before I even started the bike when I got it because it had gas in it. The only time it slips I under HARD acceleration way up in the rpm's like in third gear. It will pull hard then slip and pull again after I let of the throttle a little. I was going to just put the springs in and not mess with the friction or steels but since I cant find a small poundage torque wrench today, I think I will go ahead and take the basket out and check them. Am I right in thinking that should be easy, one bolt from where I am? Will it be easy to put back together? What should I look for. I am going out in a few minutes. I know you know TC, any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

[WMarshy]

I run the correct oil since I have had the bike. I don't know what the PO had in it but I changed it before I even started the bike when I got it because it had gas in it. The only time it slips I under HARD acceleration way up in the rpm's like in third gear. It will pull hard then slip and pull again after I let of the throttle a little. I was going to just put the springs in and not mess with the friction or steels but since I cant find a small poundage torque wrench today, I think I will go ahead and take the basket out and check them. Am I right in thinking that should be easy, one bolt from where I am? Will it be easy to put back together? What should I look for. I am going out in a few minutes. I know you know TC, any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

Disassembly isnt too bad, you'll need a big break'er bar or an impact to get the basket off. Follow this thread for general instructions on disassembly and reassembly.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9481

Things to look for are warped steel clutch plates or heat damage. If you had heat damage there will be a blue spot. Personally I would replace any that are blued. While you have them out not is a good time to knock any glaze off them by with some ~100 grit sand paper or emry cloth. Dont do crazy with a belt sander or anything just use a block or even your hand and give them a light scrub. Then clean them off with some parts cleaner. Other than that, look here about bolt fatigue.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...hlight=fatigue

[donebysunday]

I was under the impression that the XS650 clutch plates are them same ? Is this true ? I've a bunch.

[WMarshy]

I was under the impression that the XS650 clutch plates are them same ? Is this true ? I've a bunch.

I cannot confirm or deny that... I believe they use the same clutch springs though. You can prbably compare the star plate to one another and tell easilly if they are the same if you have them in hand... or use a microfiche to see if they have the same part number. If yours is undamaged then you wont have to worry about it.

[jetmechmarty]

I was under the impression that the XS650 clutch plates are them same ? Is this true ? I've a bunch.

Yes Don, the plates are the same. Same goes for the springs.

[crazy steve]

The friction plates are the same, the steels aren't.....

[XJkid]

Since the oem was in "spec" should I go ahead and take the basket off and check for spec on them? It seems I am close enough that just that one bolt holds the basket on, or am I wrong. The bike has just over 13 thousand on it and it only slips when I get on it in higher gear like third way up in the rpms and will grap again real quick. How much more work is involved in getting the frictions and steels out? If it is a lot, I will wait and just put the springs in and see if that helps.

Exactly the same symptoms I had when I got my XJ going. My OEM springs measured within spec, but I replaced them with Barnetts anyway. They solved the problem. Acceleration out the Yazoo! No slippage whatsoever.

[WMarshy]

Exactly the same symptoms I had when I got my XJ going. My OEM springs measured within spec, but I replaced them with Barnetts anyway. They solved the problem. Acceleration out the Yazoo! No slippage whatsoever.

I'm fairly certain he is talking about measuring the frictions to see if they are in spec from this comment since he is aready checked the springs and were in spec...

My advice is just change them out regardless. Its $40 for frictions and you shouldnt have to go in there again for clutch issues... depends on you budget and your riding style. Some times the springs are enough to solve it and some times its not.

[XJkid]

Spring spex

he aready checked the springs and were in spec...

That is what I was getting at. The springs apparently can be within length specs but still have diminished strength. That one measurement does not tell the whole story. If a person is hesitant to tear into the basket, just replace the springs and see what happens. Worked for me!