barnett clutch springs

[jjz28]

I just ordered a set of Barnett springs since my bike was slipping under hard acceleration. I there anything to look for as I put these in or is it pretty straight forward. I will search here to find directions but is there anything particular I need to look for. Thanks.

[jjz28]

Should I take the basket out and measure everything? Should I add an extra steel? The bike has a little over 13 thousand miles on it. Thanks.

[natemoen]

Pull the friction plates out measure them to make sure all the frictions are in spec. Clean and scrub them with kerosene. Check the steels to make sure they are not warped. Slap it back together.

Be carefull when taking the bolts off the star plate. Just unscrew each bolt a few turns at a time and work your way around the plate. If you take one bolt all the way out you greatly risk snapping off one of the legs of the plate.

[jjz28]

Thanks! What about an extra steel? And if I do need one, where the best place to buy?

[WMarshy]

Thanks! What about an extra steel? And if I do need one, where the best place to buy?

I personally dont recommend doing the extra steel plate. IMO its just a bandaid that treats the symptom and not the cause of the problem.

If you ordered the heavy duty (HD) springs from Barnett then you should be fine, they are highly recommended. I would also recommend measuting the friction plates and if they are in spec re-use them. Inspect your steel plates for flatness, glaze and heat affected zone. If all is well then reassemble. If you want to go the extra mile you can quickly hit the steels with some sandpaper (120 or so). Just clean them up with some diesel fuel of even your favorite smelling solvent.

If you are dead set on doing the extra steel check ebay. OEM steel can be bought for about $10...

PS. Prior to reassembly, inspect the 6 bolts that hold the star plate on. Those bolts have been known to yield and you can spot a necked area of the stud if they have. When assembling, only go a turn or two on each bolt around the star pattern and do not over torque them.

[old_skool]

Most friction and fiber plates for these bikes can last almost the life of the bike if not overly abused, the Barnett springs will give you Gorilla hands, tough to squeeze, I've done the every other spring replacement in the past with excellent results. Most of the time when clutches begin to slip on these bikes, it is the 30 plus year old clutch springs.

[TADracer]

Nate mentioned the star plate cracking and that has not come up in awhile on the boards so I will reiterate.

When you are snugging down the star plate (pressure plate), make sure the springs are properly seated in their locations often as you snug down the bolts and snug them down gently in an X pattern otherwise it might crack as the clutch pack starts to tighten up. Plus, they only torque to 7.5 lb.ft., IIRC, (which is not very tight) but is enough to crack the plate.

[jjz28]

I don't know If I ordered the heavy duty springs or not, I just googled Barnett clutch springs and ordered them.

[old_skool]

You'll know when you get them, the heavy duty are almost a 1/4" longer than oem, I installed all of them the first time, I had to have Arnold Schwarzenegger arms to squeese them, I then replaced only every other one with the new ones, perfect pressure.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey JJz,

I don't know if you have just found threads talking about putting in the extra steel, or if you found the actual TECH TIP? The Tech tip provides good info regarding the reassembly process, with photos and such!

I made that tip several years ago before learning/discovering the Barnett springs. I still have the regular aftermarket HD springs, so the extra steel is helping my clutch because it compresses the springs a couple mm's more, but I'm sure that the springs will eventually get sprung...and then I'll get some barnetts and take out the extra steel at the same time! I guess I should add an adendum

I also cover the precaution of the star plate in the Dremel Fix tip as well since the clutch has to be removed to do the Tranny fix!

I recently worked on a local xsive's machine, think it had like 40-50k miles and a skipping gear. The frictions measured about 1/2 the spec value, so they DO wear, and if worn springs, that can allow slippage which can accellerate the wear of the frictions. SO....as suggested, measure/micrometer the frictions, and be prepared to order replacements IF they are a bit below spec....3.00 mm max, 2.80mm min!

T.C.

[jjz28]

well guys, I got my springs out and they are all at 41.5-42. That is with a cheap gauge, not digital so somewhere in between 41 1/2 to 42. I guess I didn't order the heavy duty cause the barnetts only measure about 43.5. That ticks me off. Since the oem was in "spec" should I go ahead and take the basket off and check for spec on them? It seems I am close enough that just that one bolt holds the basket on, or am I wrong. The bike has just over 13 thousand on it and it only slips when I get on it in higher gear like third way up in the rpms and will grap again real quick. How much more work is involved in getting the frictions and steels out? If it is a lot, I will wait and just put the springs in and see if that helps. The barnetts do seem to have a little more resistance. Can the oem be in spec and still be week? Also, these springs I took out have a blue paint on one side of them, is that oem or has someone already replace the springs. Its like they put a blue mist of paint on one side. Thanks.

[natemoen]

The springs loose their springyness over time. Put the new ones in. Take the friction and steel discs out and measure the frictions and make sure they are in spec. check and make sure the steels are not warped and give them a light sanding with some sandpaper. scrub and clean both the frictions and the steels in kerosene. Then reassemble it all with the new springs.

[jjz28]

Also, has anyone just used the RTV sealant to make a gasket without using a real gasket. The kick start came out, when I put it back in, do I need to wind the spring first? Thanks again.

[Courtney]

Also, has anyone just used the RTV sealant to make a gasket without using a real gasket. The kick start came out, when I put it back in, do I need to wind the spring first? Thanks again.

I just use RTV, did that when I couldn't find a replacement gasket years ago, and it's been good since. Can't help you with the kickstart question, I have an 80.

[jjz28]

thank you Courtney.