Wiring Help

[XSive-11]

Hello again,

I recently posted that I had a mess of wiring behind headlight that was stored in a fake leather pouch, someone had said this was done on models that had a fairing. I have cleaned up bad connections, shortened much of the wires due to fact that I won't be using a fairing, and replaced wires that had apparently melted at one time.

My current problem with this wiring is that I don't believe the PO connected the wires properly when he attempted to fix the wiring. The aftermarket turn signals (2 black wires 1 red) aren't even hooked up.

The problem I am having is located where to properly install these turn signal wires. I was hoping to turn the turn indicator on and find the wire that was "blinking", however, I am not sure if the switch is bad or a relay is bad because I am seeing nothing go on/off. The one wire in the original fuse block is for the signal, and I've cleaned the contact and installed a new glass fuse for time being (all other fuses were removed and replaced with inline fuses...you see what I'm working with, lol).

I've scoured this site and the internet, I cannot find a wiring diagram to tell me what wire is for what. Can someone help me please? Aside from the 3 wires to headlight, I am assuming I have some extra wires for the once-existent fairing? Maybe I'm wrong to assume.

Thanks again for all your help,
Lee

[crazy steve]

Go here: http://www.ringler.us/family/mybike.html ... and download the factory manual. Look here too.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35337

The main diagram isn't easy to read, you'll be better off looking at the separate diagram in the 'electrical' section of the manual. Make sure all connections are clean and tight...

[XSive-11]

Thank you for those links, they look to be great resources!

I've been reading your troubleshooting post, and have a couple questions. You said the plugs/wires and connections I am looking for are under the tank, however, I don't see any of those color wires under the tank. Or anywhere for that matter.

I did have a broken contact on the switch, I fixed that solder contact and cleaned the contacts in the switch. Your post also said to disconnect the canceller to test if that is broken. Does this mean to just unscrew the black wire from inside the switch?

I'm still waiting for the ringler.us oem manual to load (taking a long time for some reason).

Thanks again,
Lee

[crazy steve]

The plug connection that needs to be checked is where the handlebar switch plugs into the main harness; this will on the same side as the ballast resistor.

The canceller is the 'black box' above the battery. Unplug that while doing your turn signal troubleshooting, once you have them working then plug it back in. If they then quit working, you probably have a poor connection in that plug... The canceller get a signal from the speedo to shut off the signals, so you'll have to spin the front tire or ride the bike to check that....

[XSive-11]

OK, here's where I'm at.

I disconnected the self-canceller. I've cleaned up all connections and dielectric greased them. I've tried to follow your steps and the manuals steps as best I can, but I don't have a firm grasp on troubleshooting electronics. OK, I'll admit it, I'm electronic retarded.

I have found the dark green (right) and chocolate (left) wires the manual states go to the turn signals. Now, my question is, is that the negative for the blinkers or the positive? Like I said, the PO installed aftermarket turn signals, 2 black wires, 1 red. I'm assuming they're dual filament to be used as markers and turn signals. The rear harness to the brake light and turn signals was not hacked, when I have that connected, the parking light comes on (can't test brake light as both masters are seized), but no turn signals. Does this mean the flasher relay is bad if the canceller is disconnected?

What I need to know is, what wires do the front turn signals connect to? I'd like to start there and try eliminating from that point (I know it's backwards, but if I don't know if the turn signals are connected properly, I won't know if the other units are performing properly).

I'm almost at the point where I want to pick up some flashers and wire in aftermarket switches to bypass the hackjob.

Thanks again!

[XSive-11]

The flasher appears to be aftermarket as well, as it is only a 2 prong. I tried spinning it around to see if maybe was installed incorrectly, but no change. If the flasher was working properly (or being told to work properly) I would hear it click on and off even without the wires hooked up to turn signals, right?

[crazy steve]

OK, let's take this in pieces.....

First, all colored wires in the XS harness are 'positive'; all 'ground' wires will be black (there's some black with a tracer color wires, these are not grounds).

Next, your aftermarket signals. If they're dual-element lamps, you need to identify which wire is the ground. Check with a meter or continuity light between the wires and the outer shell of the light socket; the wire that goes to the shell is the ground.

For the rear lights, there are no 'running lights' circuit, only turns. In fact, unless the rear lights have red lenses, it's illegal to connect running lights. So the two wires at the back are the turn and ground only. If you do have red lenses, you can add the running light function by tapping into the taillight circuit.

In the front, the original signals had no ground wire; they got the ground return path through the signal bodies/mounts/bike frame. The running lights will be a blue wire. If your aftermarket lights have a ground wire, you'll need to attach that to a metal part of the bike or to any black (ground) wire.

The turn flasher will be located right below the fuse panel behind the right-side sidecover. If it says 'Yamaha' on it and has three prongs, it's original; if it's aftermarket, then we need to know if it's two-prong or three prong. The aftermarket three prong flashers do not function the same as the Yamaha unit and wire differently. You will lose the self-cancel with an aftermarket flasher unless you add additional wiring/parts.

Poor/loose/dirty connections are nearly always the issue with the turn signals, with wrong connections running second. If you don't have a meter to check the 'quality' of your connections, you can chase your tail.... look here:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35339

[crazy steve]

If you have a two-prong flasher, it should be connected between the brown and brown/white wires....

[crazy steve]

You may have a bad switch; these are known for the solder joints breaking at the switch. Unplug the switch from the harness and check it; if the switch is working properly, you should have continuity between the chocolate and brown/white, and the yellow/red and black (ground) when the lever is pushed left, push right and it's the dark green/brown white and again the yellow/red and black.

If you don't have this, remove the switch and carefully disassemble it, repairing/cleaning connections. You can re-solder any broken connections with a bit of care.

[XSive-11]

I did have a broken contact, the one all the way to the right. I re-soldered it, and lightly sandpapered the contacts but still no dice.

[jayel]

you haven't said wheather you have a meter or a least a test light, do you have 12v to the brown wire at the flasher? if not it's supposed to be coming from the fuse box those old fuse box clips could be bad on the back side

[XSive-11]

OK, I told you guys I was electronic retarded, lol.

I had tested previously (with a test light, my meter is broken) the brown fuse (last remaining original line into fuse block, the rest were rigged with inline fuses). I checked one side and thought I tested the wire on the other side, I must have only touched the fuse itself though as after Jayel posted, I rechecked this and found the other side was dead. I cleaned the contacts and holy crap, the lights on my idiot panel lit up. (I remember reading on the forums here most of the accessories are fed from this brown wire.)

The flasher does have power at the brown wire.

With the canceller plugged in and I turn the signals to left or right both the signal lights on idiot panel light up. I'm assuming because it's an aftermarket 3 prong flasher.

With the canceller unplugged and I turn the signals to left the left indicator light stays on, no blinking. Same for right side.

Since the rear tail light and turn signal harness has been unmolested by the PO, I wanted to test the wires going to the turn signal there. The brake light and parking light is nice and bright on the test light. Both the turn signal wires barely illuminate the test light.

So, do I just need a new flasher?

Thank you for the help guys, I know they say KISS...but I am real stupid with electronics. Getting it running and looking good is more my cup of tea, lol.

[jayel]

ok power to the flasher now check for power on the Brown/White at the flasher and the selector switch, BTW when doing these checks shut your kill switch off so you don't overheat the coils, a new 522 generic flasher is only 5 to 7 bucks

[XSive-11]

I can't shut the kill switch off, I have it bypassed (2 leads screwed into one terminal because the switch housing is broken).

The brown/white wire on the flasher up to the turn signal switch is very dim. The other brown wire on the flasher is very bright.

[Rasputin]

Crazy Steve totally nailed it with my signal light problems. You will need a multi meter in order to check the continuity of the wires and signal lights themselves. I too am an electrical screw up, so just do the tests the guys say and if you do not have a multi meter they are available at almost any neighbours place as nearly everyone has one. They are also very cheap to buy and will help with sussing out a whole range of issues these old bike have. I highly suggest a purchase.