Hmmm, big clearance on one intake valve.

[Courtney]

So in preperation for firing up my 80SG I pulled the valve cover off to prelube the camlobes with some clevite77 assembly lube. I wrenched it over by hand for a few revolutions and noted that all the lobes wiped nicely between the themselves and their shim EXCEPT one intake on no.3 cylinder. It seems to have a big enough gap that I can actually pull the shim out with a magnet. NO way that is right. The lobe pushes it down into the bore, but it's like the thing isn't coming all the way back up??? Bear in mind this bike sat for 3 yrs without being run. My next thought is to pull the plugs, put in the battery and crank it over to see if the spring/bucket/shim come all the way up with a bit of action? Would REALLy appreciate some input on this one, as I don't want to F up the engine!! It is def. not rising that last 1/16".

[DGXSER]

I would not crank it over, especially with the starter until you identify why it is sticking. Try pulling the cam and then see if you can pull the bucket with a magnet.

[Nightengale]

So in preperation for firing up my 80SG I pulled the valve cover off to prelube the camlobes with some clevite77 assembly lube. I wrenched it over by hand for a few revolutions and noted that all the lobes wiped nicely between the themselves and their shim EXCEPT one intake on no.3 cylinder. It seems to have a big enough gap that I can actually pull the shim out with a magnet. NO way that is right. The lobe pushes it down into the bore, but it's like the thing isn't coming all the way back up??? Bear in mind this bike sat for 3 yrs without being run. My next thought is to pull the plugs, put in the battery and crank it over to see if the spring/bucket/shim come all the way up with a bit of action? Would REALLy appreciate some input on this one, as I don't want to F up the engine!! It is def. not rising that last 1/16".

i was going to say the same thing about not cranking it, i would just do it by hand till you can find out what is up with the one shim. did you check the the valve clearances with feeler gauges to see if the shims were correct (within spec.)?

[bikerphil]

So in preperation for firing up my 80SG I pulled the valve cover off to prelube the camlobes with some clevite77 assembly lube. I wrenched it over by hand for a few revolutions and noted that all the lobes wiped nicely between the themselves and their shim EXCEPT one intake on no.3 cylinder. It seems to have a big enough gap that I can actually pull the shim out with a magnet. NO way that is right. The lobe pushes it down into the bore, but it's like the thing isn't coming all the way back up??? Bear in mind this bike sat for 3 yrs without being run. My next thought is to pull the plugs, put in the battery and crank it over to see if the spring/bucket/shim come all the way up with a bit of action? Would REALLy appreciate some input on this one, as I don't want to F up the engine!! It is def. not rising that last 1/16".

Sounds like symptoms of a bent valve, check your compression on that cylinder when you are cranking it over. Actually I would first slowly turn the engine by hand clockwise with a wrench on the left timing plate, if everything is free, then crank it over. Usually it is the #3 exhaust valve that gets bent first with a cam chain mishap. Could be some rust on the valve stem keeping it from closing too, JAT

[Courtney]

Think I figured it out,

Well for some reason, that cylinder although sealed just like the others has some rust on the valve stem and probably seat, that is what is keeping the valve from rising up completely. Take a look at a good one, and then the problem one. So, any suggestions???? How long does it take to pull a head? The exhaust and carbs are already off.

[bikerphil]

I would first try pushing the valve down further and spray some PB Blaster on the rust and maybe with a brass brush, try to remove most of the rust. The spring is pretty strong and should be able to overcome what little rust is left. Once you run the engine, things should loosen up I would think.

[Courtney]

Slightly better pic of it.

[Courtney]

I would first try pushing the valve down further and spray some PB Blaster on the rust and maybe with a brass brush, try to remove most of the rust. The spring is pretty strong and should be able to overcome what little rust is left. Once you run the engine, things should loosen up I would think.

Geez, wouldn't that be nice! Too bad I can't get a way to get evaporust in there. I've hosed it with WD40, but I've also got PBblaster and Inox. I think I will be seeing how creative I can get with a long brush and some rust remover of some kind. Appreciate any alternate thinkers here!! Just in case though, do I just have to split the timing chain, undo the head bolts, and lift off the head??? I actually have a master lilnk on my timing chain because it's a replacement about 5 yrs ago.

[DGXSER]

I would use the PB Blaster. WD is not good at breaking things free. Learned that my first car cleaning.

Cam chain can remain in one piece to remove the head. Pull the cams, but keep tension on the chain so it does not slip off the crankshaft gear.

[CaptonZap]

You might get a brass drift, and put it on the shim, and take a hammer and give it a few taps. Make sure that the lobe is pointing away from the lifter. You are trying to drive the valve open, and letting the spring pull it back.
The spring pressure may allow it to seat.
The down side of this is that any rust on the stem will be pulled up into the lower end of the guide, and possibly imbedded there, and that is hard on stems.
On the other hand, it may go another umpteen thousand miles. Your call.

Hammer 'em till they run, CZ

[pmurphy]

Court, I have a Dremel flexible extension that could reach in there, plus lots of small brushes and fiber heads. Perhaps soaking one in PB Blaster, and using the extension may allow gentle removal of the rusted area. Perhaps rotating the cam till it's at the lowest point would ensure getting as much off as possible.

[Courtney]

You might get a brass drift, and put it on the shim, and take a hammer and give it a few taps. Make sure that the lobe is pointing away from the lifter. You are trying to drive the valve open, and letting the spring pull it back.
The spring pressure may allow it to seat.
The down side of this is that any rust on the stem will be pulled up into the lower end of the guide, and possibly imbedded there, and that is hard on stems.
On the other hand, it may go another umpteen thousand miles. Your call.

Hammer 'em till they run, CZ

You're reading my mind Cap'n. I figured if I took an aluminum or brass drift and kept giving it a medium tap, it would bounce the valve stem up and down as you say. I think your idea, after Phil's idea of the dremel extension cleanup is the way I will go. I am just hoping the valve seat and valve are not rusted up as well. If so, no compression for sure.
Hammer 'em till they run, CZ - That may be my new motto, is it copyrighted? :-)

[LoHo]

Hey Court, if I were doing that, I'd turn the cam until that valve was all the way depressed, then do the chip and scrub routine on the now exposed valve stem. I might wad up a paper towel into that spark plug hole to catch as much of the PB and rust as possible. After it was fairly clean, then I'd do the drift/dowel action on the valve bucket. Then I'd use a tiny attachment to a vacuum cleaner to hose out that cylinder.

If I was pretty sure I'd need to pull the head off anyway, I'd wait to screw around with the valve then and do it right.

[Courtney]

Hey Court, if I were doing that, I'd turn the cam until that valve was all the way depressed, then do the chip and scrub routine on the now exposed valve stem. I might wad up a paper towel into that spark plug hole to catch as much of the PB and rust as possible. After it was fairly clean, then I'd do the drift/dowel action on the valve bucket. Then I'd use a tiny attachment to a vacuum cleaner to hose out that cylinder.

Sounds like an excellent procedure LoHo. That is the way I will do it, especially turning the lobe down for max extension on the valve. Will gather the tools needed tonight and get ready for surgery in the AM.
Right now, I have prescribed myself a large glass of Lemonhart Rum over two rocks to help take the edge off this new minor roadblock on my resto.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

If you have a guitar string, one that is wound on the outside, you can fish it through and around the valve stem twice. then move it back and forth with PB around the stem till the rust is gone, that will save your valve guild when you turn it over later, good luck with your bike