oil type question

[Janzellotti]

Last week I change my oil to a fully synthetic 20/50 Now it doesn't want to start in cold mornings But no problem in a warm afternoon Can I change to a lighter weight without completely changing The oil filter And just drain out what comes out the plug

[mlew]

You need to elaborate on "won't start"
Does the engine turn over or is just the starter spinning?
Is the battery weak and not working well in the cold?
Synthetic oils sometimes play havoc on the starter clutch, it will spin but not catch and turn the engine.

[CatatonicBug]

20W50 is the summer weight oil. I always have to switch to a lighter weight oil in the fall, or the engine won't crank fast enough to start on cold mornings. Sometimes the starter cluctch won't engage with the heavier oil either. Stay away from synthetic oils for the engine, as they (usually) cause slippage issues with the clutch. Look for oils with this logo on the back:



NOT this one:

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Florida

Last week I change my oil to a fully synthetic 20/50 Now it doesn't want to start in cold mornings But no problem in a warm afternoon Can I change to a lighter weight without completely changing The oil filter And just drain out what comes out the plug

Where you live in florida, if I have that right, should not keep it from starting with 20w 50 oil IMHO. I would look elsewhere and give us a better descripion on exactly what happens when you try to start it now

[Janzellotti]

Starter turn engine turns no start

[madmax-im]

change the oil to a lighter weight like Marshall said ++1 to avoiding energy conserving oils...

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Crank

Starter turn engine turns no start

Does it turn fast as normal? or does it crank real slow? If it is turning over fast like it does later in the day when it is warmer, then it's not the oil. The 20w part of the oil is the cold weather viscosity, same as 20w 30 weight cranking in cold weather, and neither one should give a problem in central florida IMHO you could try 5w 40, but I don't think it is your oil, sounds electric to me I ran mine with 20w 50 year round with no problems here in florida

[Janzellotti]

i think i have come to a conclusion

I just got homeFirst thing I do is on cover my bike Second then turn the petcocks to primeThird thing look at the fuel filters make sure that they are filling up Killswitch on ignition on Hit start buttonvrrrrooom I realize this is not what I have been doing in the morning MorningFirst thing on cover the bikes Petcocks on reserve or on Ignition on killswitch on .... start chugga chugga nope.I am going to repeat the same afternoon ritual in the morning and see what happens........ Bare with me as I have. ADHD And sometimes I get confused or forget things

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Oil

I just got homeFirst thing I do is on cover my bike Second then turn the petcocks to primeThird thing look at the fuel filters make sure that they are filling up Killswitch on ignition on Hit start buttonvrrrrooom I realize this is not what I have been doing in the morning MorningFirst thing on cover the bikes Petcocks on reserve or on Ignition on killswitch on .... start chugga chugga nope.I am going to repeat the same afternoon ritual in the morning and see what happens........ Bare with me as I have. ADHD And sometimes I get confused or forget things

Cant hurt to try lighter oil, I would save the high $$$ new oil though. I would emty the oil filter houseing as it is easy to do. Don't know why you would need "prim", I never do, are you shure it's not flooding past the needles? How cold is it when it acts up?good luck with your bike

[natemoen]

If it were the oil it would be every time the bike was cold. So if it does it only sometimes then it is not the oil.

My bet it that it is something else.

[LoHo]

No start? Could be any damned thing with these bikes...just saying....

[Schming]

CatatonicBug;404657]20W50 is the summer weight oil. I always have to switch to a lighter weight oil in the fall, or the engine won't crank fast enough to start on cold mornings. Sometimes the starter cluctch won't engage with the heavier oil either. Stay away from synthetic oils for the engine, as they (usually) cause slippage issues with the clutch.

X2

Just gonna add my own experience with 20w50 wt. oil, if I may.

When I bought my '80G in '92 with 11,888 miles on the clock the seller was amazed I didn't miss second gear, at all, on the test ride around his neighborhood. He could hear me a half mile away as it had a 4 into 1 Kerker.

Bought it in April, didn't ride til a 400 mile run to Senaca Rocks in October, changed the oil to Castrol 20w50 before the trip. Very noticable difference in the way it started cold, the length it took for the trans to warm up where it wouldn't clunk (hard) dropping into first and in the cooler temps then I experienced the missed shifts into second gear.

Next oil change I used 10w40 wt. and I won't go back to 20w50 wt.
I experienced easier starting, quicker warm ups and WAY smoother shifting up and down. YMWPV

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Janz,

One thing I didn't see in your description for cold starting was the engaging of the Choke/enrichener lever? When the bike is warm in the afternoon you may NOT need it to start it, but when it's cold, you most definitely will need the extra fuel to start.

Schming, I could see the need for the 10/40 in your climate zone of PA., but even though I have seen some cold weather in Florida myself having lived in Orlando, I don't think it should be that cold especially this time of year to be causing his problems. I'm up here in Va. and my starter also runs a bit slower in the winter cold, even when it's in the garage...but again it's not climate controlled.

Also, you'll want to check the battery...do you have a multimeter? Cold weather puts a bigger stress on the battery, if it's weak, when it's cold it's weaker! Our ignition system won't work properly when the cranking voltage drops near/below 10.5V.

T.C.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

+1

Hey Janz,

One thing I didn't see in your description for cold starting was the engaging of the Choke/enrichener lever? When the bike is warm in the afternoon you may NOT need it to start it, but when it's cold, you most definitely will need the extra fuel to start.

Schming, I could see the need for the 10/40 in your climate zone of PA., but even though I have seen some cold weather in Florida myself having lived in Orlando, I don't think it should be that cold especially this time of year to be causing his problems. I'm up here in Va. and my starter also runs a bit slower in the winter cold, even when it's in the garage...but again it's not climate controlled.

Also, you'll want to check the battery...do you have a multimeter? Cold weather puts a bigger stress on the battery, if it's weak, when it's cold it's weaker! Our ignition system won't work properly when the cranking voltage drops near/below 10.5V.

T.C.

+1 T.C. for crying out In florida, oil temp on start up come on, it gets down into the 50's here, WOW, I must have a too thick Oil The rest don't get it as they are living in a COLD place in the winter that makes a difference. We hit the low 50's on a bad night No need to change oil "ever" because of the "COLD"

[Schming]

Schming, I could see the need for the 10/40 in your climate zone of PA., but even though I have seen some cold weather in Florida myself having lived in Orlando, I don't think it should be that cold especially this time of year to be causing his problems. I'm up here in Va. and my starter also runs a bit slower in the winter cold, even when it's in the garage...but again it's not climate controlled.

Yah TC, I definately agree, Janz's oil viscosity is the least of his no start problems. I was merely sharing my experience with the 20w50 wt. as a response to CBugs post.
IMHO these trannies shift way smoother with a lighter viscosity oil.



Most likely, as you stated, his battery being undercharged could be the culprit, cranking but not enough juice to fire the TCI.
Need some clearer descriptions of his symptoms.