oil type question

[donebysunday]

Guys ! The 1100 and the 650 use the same clutch, yes ? When I had a oil temp reader on my 650 during a 450 mile run over the Wild Cat Mountain during a rally back in 04 my temp went up to 275F. I called the run to a stop ( bad thing)
until I cooled down a bit, it was close to 100F outside. Next time I put in Tony Hall's suggestion of a cup of Slick 50 lube and Micheal Mercury Morse's recommendation of using 1/2 qt. less oil in the 650. I always use Yama Lube but now in the 650 and the 1100LH, 1 cup of Dura Lube. No problems with clutch slipping and very nice shifting on the 650 much better on the 1100. Dura Lube or Pro long is a smaller cell size that is better suited to the filter on the 1100, does not matter on the 650 screened filter. JMHO from testing.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

snake oil

Guys ! The 1100 and the 650 use the same clutch, yes ? When I had a oil temp reader on my 650 during a 450 mile run over the Wild Cat Mountain during a rally back in 04 my temp went up to 275F. I called the run to a stop ( bad thing)
until I cooled down a bit, it was close to 100F outside. Next time I put in Tony Hall's suggestion of a cup of Slick 50 lube and Micheal Mercury Morse's recommendation of using 1/2 qt. less oil in the 650. I always use Yama Lube but now in the 650 and the 1100LH, 1 cup of Dura Lube. No problems with clutch slipping and very nice shifting on the 650 much better on the 1100. Dura Lube or Pro long is a smaller cell size that is better suited to the filter on the 1100, does not matter on the 650 screened filter. JMHO from testing.

I wouldn't put any of that "snake oil" in my bike. Especialy anything with tefflon or other stuff, your clutch is in that oil. These are not worn out car motors that "MIGHT" slow an oil leak, or seal a gasket with some "snake oil", just IMHO, good luck with your bike

[fredintoon]

........ Bare with me as I have. ADHD And sometimes I get confused or forget things

Hi Jason,
make yourself a startup checklist.
Stamp it on as small a piece of aluminum sheet as it will fit
or use a label maker and stick the labels on a piece of plastic.
Keyring it to your ignition key.
It should say:-
ignition ON
gas ON
killswitch ON
choke ON
trans in NEUTRAL
sidestand UP
Most likely you'll only need it for a short while, until the procedure burns itself into your mind.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

+1

Hi Jason,
make yourself a startup checklist.
Stamp it on as small a piece of aluminum sheet as it will fit
or use a label maker and stick the labels on a piece of plastic.
Keyring it to your ignition key.
It should say:-
ignition ON
gas ON
killswitch ON
choke ON
trans in NEUTRAL
sidestand UP
Most likely you'll only need it for a short while, until the procedure burns itself into your mind.

+1, it is so simple, key, gas (choke or not) start, ride

[Schming]

Hi Jason,
make yourself a startup checklist.
Stamp it on as small a piece of aluminum sheet as it will fit
or use a label maker and stick the labels on a piece of plastic.
Keyring it to your ignition key.
It should say:-
ignition ON
gas ON
killswitch ON
choke ON
trans in NEUTRAL
sidestand UP
Most likely you'll only need it for a short while, until the procedure burns itself into your mind.

Great tip Fred

This thread was getting so far off track it was almost spoiled.

[GLoweVA]

I read the title of this thread and thought to myself, oh boy another oil thread...

Then I read his post about turning the petcocks to prime and vrooom, whereas before he was turning them to 'on' and it wouldn't start.
With the the standard petcocks if the fuel lines weren't completely full then there would be a delay in getting the fuel to the carbs until the vacuum petcocks allowed flow after several cranks. But on prime there was no delay and VROOOM.

Oh, +1 on the temps in FLA.
Even here in VA in the mornings it gets to about 35-45F and my G has no problem starting with full choke on the 2nd or 3rd crank. (with the 20/50 oil and an oil cooler!)

[jetmechmarty]

+1, not oil problem. In my personal experience, the seat of my pants can not tell the difference between 15W40 and 20W50. Also, I have used plenty of synthetic motor oil without issue. I must point out that all of the synthetic oil I have run has been the motorcycle specific variety. As stated, avoid the "ENERGY CONSERVING" label.

Are the choke passages in the float bowls clear? Does it start with the choke open and the throttle closed? That beast should start, even if well below freezing.

I would make sure the battery is alive and well. A strong battery should have no trouble with a Florida winter.

Remove the float bowls. Spray carburetor cleaner into the choke passage on each and make sure it passes through.

The image isn't an XS11 carb, but it's close enough to get the job done.

[GLoweVA]

[QUOTE=jetmechmarty;404735Remove the float bowls. Spray carburetor cleaner into the choke passage on each and make sure it passes through.
[/QUOTE]

Just make sure you've got eye protection!! DAMHIK, BTDT! That cleaner will come shooting right back at you!

[donebysunday]

Just make sure you've got eye protection!! DAMHIK, BTDT! That cleaner will come shooting right back at you!

Holding that float bowl in the right direction when shooting carb cleaner into that choke passage is important, as the cleaner will also sting your skin and melt little spots on your safety glasses.

Think what absorbing it through your skin and into your blood might do.

Good point ! With four carbs and maybe one or two choke passages plugged it would most likely still start under perfect conditions ?

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Oil

Not to start the "Aw, Jezz, not this s#!t again" oil post, but I will add, when I changed from 20w50 to 20w40 (not for cold reasons) my bike shifts better asn runs quiter, JAT, YOUR RESULTS MAY VERY

[Schming]

Not to start the "Aw, Jezz, not this s#!t again" oil post, but I will add, when I changed from 20w50 to 20w40 (not for cold reasons) my bike shifts better asn runs quiter, JAT, YOUR RESULTS MAY VERY

Exactly, I really think the 50w is too thick for these Russian Trannies

[jetmechmarty]

There's no such thing as Yamalube 20W40 motorcycle oil any more. I've been buying the 20W50 in bulk because it's cheap. I've also used 20W50 off the shelf at the parts store, 15W40 Rotella, synthetic motorcycle oil in 20W50 and 10W40. I can't tell the difference with any of them. I avoid the "ENERGY CONSERVING" label. Otherwise, as long as it's clean and slippery, it works fine for me.

Clean up those choke passages and tell us how it works!

[Janzellotti]

All has been good gpt new battery and started in the morning with frost on windshields . got my bike checkout all is good now .lovin the clubmans flipped low didn't go with the tracy fairing thanks fellas for all the help

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

There's no such thing as Yamalube 20W40 motorcycle oil any more. I've been buying the 20W50 in bulk because it's cheap. I've also used 20W50 off the shelf at the parts store, 15W40 Rotella, synthetic motorcycle oil in 20W50 and 10W40. I can't tell the difference with any of them. I avoid the "ENERGY CONSERVING" label. Otherwise, as long as it's clean and slippery, it works fine for me.

Clean up those choke passages and tell us how it works!

http://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&ta...w=1280&bih=675

[jetmechmarty]

On the Yamaha site, the 20W40 is outboard engine oil. I don't see 20W40 motorcycle oil.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/yamalube...#productscroll