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  • #16
    Originally posted by captjanes View Post
    yeah i seen that but i perfer not to touch my cam because with my luck it will open another can of worms haha im gonna wait for my tool to arrive.. thanks anyway
    I'm with you. Go through once and make a note of what thickness is in each valve, then you can figure out which ones you can swap.
    The only problem is that you need to get the extra ones before you start to swap them, so that you do not turn the cam without a shim in place. So get a shim or shims that you will need, and then you can start swaping them out.
    Don't lose your list of existing shim thicknesses before the new ones get to you, unless you really like checking the thicknesses again.
    CZ

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    • #17
      so my tool came today to do my valve lash and it was wrong one lol.. so i havent got time i wanna get riding so i loosened off my cam adjuster and raised the cams enough to remove the shims ( i didnt let the chain loose enough to fool with the timing it is not loose enough to jump a tooth) my question is how do i set the tension on the cam chain again? do i just torque the cam caps down and the chain should automatically come tight then just tighten the set screw??
      1980 Yamaha XS1100LG Midnight Special

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      • #18
        in theory yes, all you will need to do is tighten the caps back down. But you need to make sure to double check the timing so that you know for absolute certainty that nothing came out of time.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

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        • #19
          Originally posted by captjanes View Post
          so my tool came today to do my valve lash and it was wrong one lol.. so i havent got time i wanna get riding so i loosened off my cam adjuster and raised the cams enough to remove the shims ( i didnt let the chain loose enough to fool with the timing it is not loose enough to jump a tooth) my question is how do i set the tension on the cam chain again? do i just torque the cam caps down and the chain should automatically come tight then just tighten the set screw??
          If you've got the standard (non ACCT) adjuster, then once you get the cams back tight again, (Bike on center stand) carefully rotate to the 'C' mark. this will set the chain up with the most amount of 'slack' in it right at the adjuster then let the plunger go in and tighten the set screw. Remember the torque on the screw and lock nut are really small. You don't want to strip those suckers out.

          Like Nate says, double check those dots on the cams and make sure they match up the the 'T' mark. (remember it take 2 rotations of the crank for one rotation of the cams, so if you don't see the dots the first time around, then go another 360deg.)
          Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

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