Valve Lash Adjustment

[captjanes]

i check my valves today and seems as if all my valves are tight. my engine was down on compression on #3 and i was thinking rings cause i am burning oil. but now with tight valves that could lead to my poor compression issue but still dont solve my oil burnign issue haha. where can i buy a shim kit for adjustment?

[CatatonicBug]

Don't buy a kit. Easiest way is to open it up and determine which shims you need. Post it here, and trade what you have with someone else. You might be able to get individual shims at your local dealer too, if you are in a hurry.

[TADracer]

If your tolerances are tight then you are getting normal wear.

You can get new shims at reasonable prices from www.newmotorcycleparts.com (which is the new site for cycle-re-cycle II)

[DGXSER]

I've had good luck with small independent shops for trading or buying used shims. I can generally get them for $2-3 a shim.

I recently went to a local Yammie dealer and left mad and looking for a jar of vasoline. They first told me they would trade like for like with me over the phone. Show up to swap shims and they tell me mine are to worn (they mic out as labeled) so they won't take mine. And then they need to buy the sizes I need, so they need $10 a shim. I thanked them making it clear how much I can trust what they tell me, and for letting me see how much they over price things. I then confirmed for them how likely it would be they will ever see me again.

[jetmechmarty]

I traded shims with a small independent motorcycle shop. $0.00. I had to trade again and went to the big box multi-brand dealer because they're close. They also traded me for $0.00. As they say, "YMMV."

Just because they have treated me so well to date, I'll name them, assuming that's OK.

Gainesville Motorsports

[crazy steve]

Some dealers are good about this, some aren't.... Marty found a good one..

Valve lash can have a big effect on compression if the valves are tight (I've seen it nearly triple after a valve adjustment), so I always recommend checking/adjusting the valves before deciding you have other problems causing low compression.

Note that you don't have to go to just a Yamaha dealer either, as these shims were used on other brand bikes as well and are 'generic' in the diameter size (29mm). Suzuki and Kawasaki also used these size shims on some models, so you have options. Do be aware that there's a 29.5mm size out there that looks nearly identical but won't fit; check carefully before swapping.

[mack]

You may

not need as many as you think. After you do and record all the measurements. Consult the shim charts. You may find that your existing shims will work on other valves buckets. Once you establish what you need, PM me and I'll see what I have. One for one swap. I've got four spare head's and a standing collection on hand. My dealer just gives them to me. Course I buy a lot stuff there so I guess we are helping each other.

[captjanes]

heres my clearences i took them again today to record so i can compare the shims that i will need. my dealer wont swap shims they tell me i have to buy them and they have none available they need to order some lol idots... i am in newfoundland, canada so swaping with some of you guys is not a good option either. im just gonna look at my results and just order some shims that i can work with.

stock should be (according to my service manual):
Intake: 0.008 - 0.010in (0.21-0.25mm)
Exhaust: 0.006-0.008in (0.16-0.20mm)

My bike:
#1 Intake: 0.004in (0.10mm) Exhaust: 0.007in (0.17mm)
#2 Intake: 0.006in (0.15mm) Exhaust: 0.007in (0.17mm)
#3 Intake: 0.002in (0.05mm) Exhaust: 0.004in (0.10mm)
#4 Intake: 0.006in (0.15mm) Exhaust: 0.008in (0.20mm)

all my intake are tight. exhaust seems to be ok except for #3.. do this look like normal wear?? i am unsure about how the shim sizes(thickness) work for this bike so if you have opions fire away lol.. #3 was also my cylinder that was 16% lower on compression then the rest, i think it is safe to say that my tight valves are the reason for this

[CaptonZap]

heres my clearences i took them again today to record so i can compare the shims that i will need. my dealer wont swap shims they tell me i have to buy them and they have none available they need to order some lol idots... i am in newfoundland, canada so swaping with some of you guys is not a good option either. im just gonna look at my results and just order some shims that i can work with.

stock should be (according to my service manual):
Intake: 0.008 - 0.010in (0.21-0.25mm)
Exhaust: 0.006-0.008in (0.16-0.20mm)

My bike:
#1 Intake: 0.004in (0.10mm) Exhaust: 0.007in (0.17mm)
#2 Intake: 0.006in (0.15mm) Exhaust: 0.007in (0.17mm)
#3 Intake: 0.002in (0.05mm) Exhaust: 0.004in (0.10mm)
#4 Intake: 0.006in (0.15mm) Exhaust: 0.008in (0.20mm)

all my intake are tight. exhaust seems to be ok except for #3.. do this look like normal wear?? i am unsure about how the shim sizes(thickness) work for this bike so if you have opions fire away lol.. #3 was also my cylinder that was 16% lower on compression then the rest, i think it is safe to say that my tight valves are the reason for this

If you have an 80??, you might want to check your manual for valave clearance. The 80 on value is .004 - .006, and you may find that the shim from another valve will get you that for #1 & 3. I would set them at .006, so that they are all close to the same. CZ

[mack]

On the bottom

Of the shims is a number. If you can supply the numbers along with the measurements we can tell you which shims you need or where to arrange your existing. If not just measure the thicknesses in metric. The numbers and thicknesses are the same. I used to live in Goosebay so I mail goes out that way. I can probably supply you with what you need cheaper than paying for new ones.

[captjanes]

im waiting for the valve tool that i ordered to get here before i remove the shims.. once i get them removed i will measure them and determine how much i need.. i rather my valves be loose then tight because tight messes with compression and burning out valves faster

[crazy steve]

stock should be (according to my service manual):
Intake: 0.008 - 0.010in (0.21-0.25mm)
Exhaust: 0.006-0.008in (0.16-0.20mm)

You've got the intake and exhaust numbers reversed... the exhaust should be the bigger number. And this is the early spec ('78-79 motors), the later ones had the intake tightened to .004-.006". This was done strictly to reduce valvetrain noise, you can run the early clearance on the late motors with no harm (and increase times between adjustments too).

So you have one tight intake (#3), and three tight exhausts (1, 2, and 3) using the late spec. If you're going to go in there, I'd adjust all to the 'top' of the spec (to increase the time/miles before needing to adjust again) so two of the intakes and all of the exhausts are tight (or all of them if using the early spec).

[captjanes]

haha yeah you are right i checked my book and i had them backwards .. so now it seems that sll my valves are tight.. gues im gonna have to adjust one at a time.. i will also adjust to maximum clearance so i wont have to deal with it for a while. i will use the new specs as well (0.004-0.006in)

[crazy steve]

You have seen this, right?.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35434
This is my preferred method, as it gives you access to all the shims at once and makes moving them around and determining what you need easier IMO.

[captjanes]

You have seen this, right?.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35434
This is my preferred method, as it gives you access to all the shims at once and makes moving them around and determining what you need easier IMO.

yeah i seen that but i perfer not to touch my cam because with my luck it will open another can of worms haha im gonna wait for my tool to arrive.. thanks anyway