Cylinder temps?

[Rasputin]

I think I may just try pulling those plugs out and see how far in the pipe they go. The ones I have are not in top condition so if I lose them it would hurt but not be the end of the world.
Hopefully some one knows for fact , as it may take a few weeks before I get to it due to assembly of the 81LH.

[crazy steve]

I think I may just try pulling those plugs out and see how far in the pipe they go..

They go through the pipe. The drain I think that's being referred to is a small (>1/16") hole in the pipe right before it goes into the collector IIRC. There's another one right where the Special mufflers are welded to the collector too...

[Bartman]

OK everyone. No one could answer the original question of what the temps should be. But someone did mention to check the temp at the spark plug base. Since I have never had a good XS11 to work with and am having to put one together the best that I can without burning holes in pistons.....

Today, I started by taking the valve cover off and rechecking the valve gaps after 50 miles. They were all good, I did go ahead and polish the intake cams that had the slight damage back when I didn't have a shim in and rotated the motor. So, I then put it together enough to start pulling plugs and adjusting idle screws.

I knew that the #1 had a 1/8" drilled idle screw hole because I had to cut the spring in half to get it to work. So that will be a very course and hard to tune cylinder. The #2 carb I broke the idle screw off into, but I used a 1mm drill bit to drill it out. It is not perfect but a whole lot better than #1.

I pulled plugs and wrote down on a piece of paper the condition of each plug and then cleaned and reinstalled. I then cranked and only idled (didn't rev) for about 5 to 10 minutes until good and hot. Then I would turn the fan on to cool the motor and took the plugs out and wrote down results. After about 6 times I think that I have it very close. #1 is slightly darker tan but that is alot better than the black that it started with. #2 ~ #4 are ever so light tan colored. I figured that this was the only way that I would ever get my set up dialed in.

I tried to take temp measurements from the pipes again but they were all over the place. But my end results looked good at the base of the plugs. Please go to my photobucket account and see where the red lazer pointer is and the results. http://s1339.beta.photobucket.com/us...98308895693807

I don't know if this will be the temp after a long run but it's what mine is at right now.

The two centers are now hotter than the outer at this referance location. The bike is cranking and running very well now. I rode it around the country block and I think it's a keeper....until the next one is running.

[Harley Steve]

It has always been that, after you feel you have it right, do some riding. It takes several mile to color a plug. I`ve even been told you can`t read plugs anymore because of the additives,methanolyl and such. I know you bought the methanoyl free gas from Partee`s. After you`ve ridden for a few, get it in a pulling gear and wick it. After you`ve pulled it for a moment, kill the power and coast over to the side of the road. Someone on the shovelhead site had a good link to sparkplugs and I`ll see if I can find it and send it to your way after church. Best, Steve

[Bartman]

Yes, I have read several on this forum also. I'll have to do it in the mid range and again with the mains to see how all of the jets are running. I figured that to get it close at idle will be the best starting place.

Right now I am using regular gas but plan on mixing in the good stuff when in town.

[Harley Steve]

This is the link I was thinking of
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html
but it is more for timing. The burn line on the electrode is how this article describes the best timing. So, nothing that will help you now but some good reading for later.

[Bartman]

That has some good pictures and detailed comments. I will keep it in mind as I do more tuning.