You can tell if it has had a front end shunt by checking the front middle M6 cap screw holding down the cam cover, if the screw looks like it'll unscrew out clear of the little frame cross tube its OK, if it looks like the frame tube is over the top of the screw its bent. And furthermore, its an engine mounts unbolting, carb removal, exhausts off job to move the motor to get the screw out to do the shims.
1978 xs11 price
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Sorry to disagree, but the top center screw should JUST CLEAR the frame tube with a little wiggle. I've have 6 XS1100's, plus worked on a LOT more, and they are ALL that way. You DO need to go over the bike, no matter what. If the owner has proof of work done, his notes or shop bills, you will have a better idea of what you are really looking at. JMHORay Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it! -
Disagree? you're not disagreeing Ray. That is what I was saying, the screw should CLEAR the frame tube, or as you put it JUST CLEAR.
I'm the similar to you, own 4 XS1100's and worked on many more, and found the screw clears no problem, if its tight needing a little wiggle, its normally coz the engine rubber mounts are getting tired. If the frame has had a front end shunt the frame cross tube gets pushed over the top of the screw requiring moving the engine in the frame.
Hopefully the photos lie and the bike Razorback is looking at buying is Ok, just wanted to give him a heads up on what to look for.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to originalComment
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