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  • Float level checking

    I have read tech tips that refer to attaching clear tubing to the float bowl drain, in order to "see" the fluid level in the bowl.
    I have searched, unsuccessfully, for a barbed fitting with an 8mm male thread to attach to the bowl.
    Before i go drilling-out the center of an 8mm bolt, can anyone tell me how this is normally done??

    Thanks
    Mike

    1980 SG "Angus"

  • #2
    A grease zerk with the center ball drilled out works.
    Last edited by crazy steve; 01-03-2013, 12:18 PM.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

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    1978 XS1100E
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    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
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    ATK Fork Brace
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    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

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    • #3
      Originally posted by newmaac View Post
      I have read tech tips that refer to attaching clear tubing to the float bowl drain, in order to "see" the fluid level in the bowl.
      I have searched, unsuccessfully, for a barbed fitting with an 8mm male thread to attach to the bowl.
      Before i go drilling-out the center of an 8mm bolt, can anyone tell me how this is normally done??

      Thanks
      The 80 carbs that you have were intended for the float to be set on the bench upside down with a ruler. The spec is 23MM from the float bowl surface, gasket removed, to the highest part of the float. The later model 81 and up carbs have a fitting built into the bowl for attaching clear tubing. The ruler method will get the fuel level to the right height and much easier, JMHO.
      2H7 (79)
      3H3

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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      • #4
        For the 78 Standard I used 10mm greese fittings. I used my grinder to grind off the tip so that the ball and spring would come out. They you have a good nipple. I also made a angled steel bracket so that the whole carb set could be held above my vise and leveled. I then used an old weed eater gas tank sitting on a shelf above the carbs with an in line cut off. The level of the gas can be seen very easily doing this, also if you let it sit for an hour you can see if your needle and seats are leaking or not because the level will rise up and start to flood the carb. I put my needles into a rubber tube and into my drill press to turn. I then a square nail polisher from my wife to clean and polish my tips.
        79 XS11

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        • #5
          Ummm... as bikerphil just said, I agree...

          For the purpose at hand, measuring the floats with a ruler is the ticket... We're splitting hairs otherwise, guys.

          There is a range for the float height on my 80G and SG, like .906" +/- .020" or something like that. We are kidding ourselves by leveling the carbs to perfection, rigging up these devices, etc. So, if the fuel level is off in the "fuel line method" you wanna/gaonna take the bowls off to tweak it? I am sure mama Yama didn't do it that way! Measuring IS more than adequate!

          Correct me if I am wrong on that?
          Howard

          ZRX1200

          BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462

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          • #6
            Originally posted by natemoen View Post
            A grease zerk with the center ball drilled out works.
            float height measurement is approximate... fuel level height is exact and compensates for differences in float weight, inlet valve seal, etc. and problems with the fuel level control system! if you want approximate go with float height if you want exact go with fuel level.
            Alias Larry R in Kelso WA

            When in dought, punch it.
            XS1100LG Precious current
            XS1100SF Ruby gone to a better home
            KZ900B MIA stolen (ALL bike thieves MUST GET OFF THE PLANET more politically correct ???)

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            • #7
              Originally posted by hbonser View Post
              For the purpose at hand, measuring the floats with a ruler is the ticket... We're splitting hairs otherwise, guys.
              I'll agree. Although getting this as precise as possible is a good thing. Here's what I use... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36046

              The other thing to consider when using the 'sight glass' method on the '78-80 carbs is what is the 'correct' level? These have a different volume compared to the '81-82 bowls (which are smaller internally), so using the later spec may or may not be right. There is no 'sight glass' spec for the early bowls, so it's just an educated guess....
              Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

              '78E original owner - resto project
              '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
              '82 XJ rebuild project
              '80SG restified, red SOLD
              '79F parts...
              '81H more parts...

              Other current bikes:
              '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
              '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
              '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
              Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
              Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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              • #8
                Overkill, IMO... Carbs are not exact devices by any stretch of the imagination, and fuel level adjusting is a way for us to think we are making difference. How much diffference in weight do the floats themselves exhibit anyway?

                I am not saying the fuel level method is not an overall more precise method, we are kidding ourselves if we think that precise of a measurement will make a difference with fuel delivery on these carbs.
                Howard

                ZRX1200

                BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462

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                • #9
                  Yes anyone wanting average performance from these machines should always go for what is just whatever is within specification and easy! however if you expect the most from any machine you should strive for the exact center of design specification. and the easiest way to effect fuel / air ratio on a carburated engine is to change fuel level in the bowl. just don't bitch later when it doesn't perform to your expectations when you have been inexact with your adjustments!
                  Alias Larry R in Kelso WA

                  When in dought, punch it.
                  XS1100LG Precious current
                  XS1100SF Ruby gone to a better home
                  KZ900B MIA stolen (ALL bike thieves MUST GET OFF THE PLANET more politically correct ???)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
                    I'll agree. Although getting this as precise as possible is a good thing. Here's what I use... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36046

                    The other thing to consider when using the 'sight glass' method on the '78-80 carbs is what is the 'correct' level? These have a different volume compared to the '81-82 bowls (which are smaller internally), so using the later spec may or may not be right. There is no 'sight glass' spec for the early bowls, so it's just an educated guess....
                    Thanks for fixing the auto-correct mistake Steve.

                    I do agree as well with everyone about measuring the floats. There is no specified measurement for this model carb for this type of measurement.
                    Nathan
                    KD9ARL

                    μολὼν λαβέ

                    1978 XS1100E
                    K&N Filter
                    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                    OEM Exhaust
                    ATK Fork Brace
                    LED Dash lights
                    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                    Green Monster Coils
                    SS Brake Lines
                    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                    Theodore Roosevelt

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think what Howard and several of us are saying that being overly anal about this is very unlikely to gain you much if anything. Think about all the other variables involved; does every jet flow exactly the same? Is every carb slide the exact same weight? Does each slide see the same friction moving up and down? Does each slide spring have the same tension?

                      Sure, getting 'everything' exactly right will get you top performance, but with 30 year old parts your chances of achieving perfection are about nil. And keep in mind that the best-performing XS ('78E) used the 'crude' method....
                      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                      '78E original owner - resto project
                      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                      '82 XJ rebuild project
                      '80SG restified, red SOLD
                      '79F parts...
                      '81H more parts...

                      Other current bikes:
                      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
                        I think what Howard and several of us are saying that being overly anal about this is very unlikely to gain you much if anything. Think about all the other variables involved; does every jet flow exactly the same? Is every carb slide the exact same weight? Does each slide see the same friction moving up and down? Does each slide spring have the same tension?

                        Sure, getting 'everything' exactly right will get you top performance, but with 30 year old parts your chances of achieving perfection are about nil. And keep in mind that the best-performing XS ('78E) used the 'crude' method....
                        So to sum up. If you pay no attention to your work, don't expect much from it! & those that have machines that excell are anal anyway?
                        Alias Larry R in Kelso WA

                        When in dought, punch it.
                        XS1100LG Precious current
                        XS1100SF Ruby gone to a better home
                        KZ900B MIA stolen (ALL bike thieves MUST GET OFF THE PLANET more politically correct ???)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Float levels

                          To answer the question. Yes it is possible.

                          These levels are too high. But originally measured to spec with calipers, I always shoot for the miniscuss to be at the top of the washer and the dip just below.

                          This one is just about right. My bikes have no stumbles throught the tach and my plugs are beautiful after 6K miles. I used the grease nipples for attachement. Off the shelf at Canadian tire. Take a bowl with you when you go. I tried a couple that were close but not quite right before I found the perfect one.
                          Anyway. It all depends on how anal you are as to which method you use. Is it over kill. Probably. I do it this way so I only mount the carbs once. It's a bitch to put them on and take them off aagin a number of times to get the levels right.
                          mack
                          79 XS 1100 SF Special
                          HERMES
                          original owner
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                          • #14
                            thanks Mack very well done.
                            Alias Larry R in Kelso WA

                            When in dought, punch it.
                            XS1100LG Precious current
                            XS1100SF Ruby gone to a better home
                            KZ900B MIA stolen (ALL bike thieves MUST GET OFF THE PLANET more politically correct ???)

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I'll add my 2cents.
                              I have the 80/81 newer floats, but this advice may be more valuable to those that have the brass floats.
                              How do you know 100% that your floats float like they should?
                              I believe you should check with the ruler, but then at least once during your ownership of your bike, check with the tube method. This will give you 100% satisfaction that your floats are floating like they should. If one float is off, then you'll know that next time you're in there verifying float heights, that that one needs a little more (or less) of an adjustment.
                              Ask yourself why did the 81 bowls come with drain attachments and a description in the manual for checking it this way.
                              As for nipples, not me. I just used tygon tubing that was real close in OD to the threaded hole and 'screwed' the tubing into the hole. It held good enough to get a reading. I now know 100% that all 4 of my floats are darn close to what they measure out by ruler.
                              Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

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