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Is it about time to change the cam chain?

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  • #16
    If you think the cam chain might have slipped off the crank sprocket, take a look down the chain tunnel with a flashlight and verify that it's on the sprocket and not just next to it.
    2H7 (79)
    3H3

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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    • #17
      Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
      If you think the cam chain might have slipped off the crank sprocket, take a look down the chain tunnel with a flashlight and verify that it's on the sprocket and not just next to it.
      ??..........I understand it was running, unless I missed sumptin'.......
      81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by motoman View Post
        ??..........I understand it was running, unless I missed sumptin'.......
        Yes you are missing something . He said it tipped onto the sidestand and was worried about the chain coming off the sproket.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

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        • #19
          Well I checked the oil filter for debris, it is clean. Put the auto cam chain tensioner back in and slowly and carefully rotated the crankshaft looking for any resistance. All felt good so I put the oil back in and started her up. Runs nice on the center stand.

          Here's 2 pics of the metal guide behind the tensioner. The pics show how much movement there is from left to right, kind of like how a windshield wiper moves- it's attached on some pivot point below, and the top has movement like it's not attached, but floating. And the whole plate can be pushed inward an inch and three quarters. When I jamb it hard with my finger it makes a metal clacking sound that sounds very similar if not the same that I hear when it's running under load. I think this is the source of the noise but I don't know why it's happening yet.






          scoot

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          • #20
            Scoot, as you can see in the pic that Marty parted of the chain guide a few posts ago, that is what you see through the hole.

            In the pic the left side points up and the top side of the pic faces forward. The part that faces forward is a metal tounge that acts as a barrier for the tensioner to ride against. The guide is supposed to move in and out to account for the wearing of the chain over time just like the travel of the tensioners plunger.
            Nathan
            KD9ARL

            μολὼν λαβέ

            1978 XS1100E
            K&N Filter
            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
            OEM Exhaust
            ATK Fork Brace
            LED Dash lights
            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

            Green Monster Coils
            SS Brake Lines
            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

            Theodore Roosevelt

            Comment


            • #21
              Thanks Nate, your description of the photo makes sense. And based on that, the guide feels normal even with that left/ right slack. Maybe it's just time for a new chain, it seems to be at the very end of the adjustment parameter, or not more than 1/16" to go.
              I'm going to pull the valve cover again and see if I can ensure that the guide assembly is not worked loose or anything.

              scoot

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              • #22
                Cam Chain Guide (video)

                Here Scoot
                Click on the picture.
                mack
                79 XS 1100 SF Special
                HERMES
                original owner
                http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

                81 XS 1100 LH MNS
                SPICA
                http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

                78 XS 11E
                IOTA
                https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
                https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



                Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
                Frankford, Ont, Canada
                613-398-6186

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                • #23
                  nice video,I learned something today.
                  FOXS-XS11SG

                  2009 Suzuki V Strom 650,Adventure in Touring,I call her "Smooth" SW Motech engine guard,Coocase top case w/ LED brake and tail lights,20" MRA touring screen w/adjusable bracket,Grip heaters,fender ex-tender,Givi hard sidebags

                  1980 XS11SG-sold
                  1999 Vulcan classic-sold
                  1982 XJ 650-sold

                  Old is only a state of mind......John

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                  • #24
                    Wow! Mack that's an awesome effort on your part! Your video really explains the whole thing so clearly. Thank you.

                    The wobble that you demonstrated matches the wobble of my guide. I'm starting to believe that the chain is just worn to the end of its adjustment life, even though the noise came up suddenly. But I'll pull the valve cover again and borrow a boroscope to try to see the bottom end of the guide ass'y. Thanks to your video, I now know what I'm looking for/ at.

                    If I need to pull the cylinders it opens up a world of possible maintenance; valve guides & seals, cylinder honing, rings replaced...My biggest concern then would be getting the cylinders back over the pistons. Hmm, I'll have to tool up.

                    scoot

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                    • #25
                      videos worth

                      a lot of words. Lighting is terrible in my shop right now and I'm not too good with the camera yet but i figured since my motor is apart anyway, it was too easy to just show you what's inside. With 60k miles your chain could very well be an issue. To replace just break the chain at the master link and attach the new one to it and feed it around until you get back to the master link again. I would do this with the cams out myself, but I'm sure others have done it with the cam's in and the cc adjuster in. A good thing to remember is "Never rotate the motor with the cams in, without the adjuster in place!!!!!"
                      Ever, ever, ever ,ever
                      mack
                      79 XS 1100 SF Special
                      HERMES
                      original owner
                      http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

                      81 XS 1100 LH MNS
                      SPICA
                      http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

                      78 XS 11E
                      IOTA
                      https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
                      https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



                      Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
                      Frankford, Ont, Canada
                      613-398-6186

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I may be a little ahead of myself, but

                        if I'm going to replace the cam chain, I'll have questions about how to exactly go about it. First I have to find the right replacement chain and master link. Will it already be the right length, will I need to remove a link to account for the master link? Do I cut the old chain master link pin with a dremel cut off wheel? Where is the best location to do the cutting and attaching, over the chain guide, maybe ahead of the front cam gear? Oh boy, what fun!

                        scoot

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                        • #27
                          Here's a link for the cam chain and master link, they are all the same length, no need to remove links. This one is supposedly a bit more heavy duty than some of the Chinese ones...



                          http://www.z1enterprises.com/ListIte...1100+cam+chain

                          Cut the old chain with a dremel, attach the new one to the end, pull it thru the motor, and attach the master link. You will have to peen the ends of the master link over. There is a special tool to do this or there are "backyard" methods.
                          Last edited by bikerphil; 12-30-2012, 08:41 PM.
                          2H7 (79)
                          3H3

                          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            I used the chain recommended by bikerphil. I will now 2nd that recommendation.

                            The chain in your engine and the replacement chain are both continuous. There is no master link. The easy way to do this is with the proper tooling.


                            You can source this at lots of places including Z1 or Mike's XS.
                            Marty (in Mississippi)
                            XS1100SG
                            XS650SK
                            XS650SH
                            XS650G
                            XS6502F
                            XS650E

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                            • #29
                              I don't believe the original chain will have a master link. No biggie, you can just cut it if it is the original. Make sure that you get a replacement chain that does have a master link because I have seen continuous chains on ebay before!
                              Skids (Sid Hansen)

                              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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                              • #30
                                Thank you for the cam chain recommendations. The master link will replace one link if the new chain is a continuous chain, or becomes an additional link if the chain is open, right? By the photo on the Z1 website it looks to be continuous, needing to be broken open.

                                Pulling the chain thru via a wrench on the crank, with the auto cam chain tensioner installed, I predict an issue with bringing the chain ends together for the master link: the acct will be at max extension, the chain won't come together close enough, being prevented by the ratchet of the acct. How best to handle this? Hold the free end under tension with a bungee then remove the acct to install the master link? ( Think I read that somewhere.)

                                Thank you all for your help.

                                scoot

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