No spark all 4

[le_bucheron]

You tried another battery. Was it an old charged bike battery? Was it a known good battery? Did you try jumping off of a car (with the engine off)? Batteries can show a "skin charge" but have no real capacity to start the bike.

Yeah I tired 1x bike battery and 3x car batteries and one booster pack.

I tired another regulator...

[skids]

I would try jumpers right at the starter. Make sure it is in neutral and on center stand. If she spins with the ground near the starter move the ground to the ground at the battery strap. If she spins move the hot jumper to the terminal at the solonoid. This should help you track down the fault. I have found issues at the lead where the positive cable from the battery attaches to the terminal by the solonoid. I would look at my bike to better describe this but I am in a damned hotel!

[le_bucheron]

If I want to plug the minimun electrical I need: Battery, regulator, coil, pick-up coil, ignition unit and jumping solenoid... anything else???

Next step I would like to change the harness of pick-up coil. I saw some wires fixed with the cheap way...

[skids]

I'm sorry. I thought you were having issues with current at the starter. Ignore my last post.

[petejw]

jat,
have u got ur tip over switch connected
and sitting correctly?

[le_bucheron]

jat,
have u got ur tip over switch connected
and sitting correctly?

Yeah and I tryed my spare... if I unplug it, is it bypass or I need to jump it?

[bikerphil]

Just unplug it, bypassing/jumping wires would be the same as if the bike fell over (no spark).

[le_bucheron]

Is the boost sensor can kill my spark?

[crazy steve]

Have you verified that you have the bonding/grounding jumper between the motor and frame installed? If that's missing (or making a poor connection), that will increase starter current draw and drag down your starting voltage.

You should have at least 12 volts at the battery and no less than 11.5 volts elsewhere before you try to start it. As was pointed out, anything under 10.5 volts and the ignition box won't 'power up'. As to the 'boost sensor', unless that's shorted to ground internally, it won't effect the ignition until you have a large enough vacuum signal. You can unplug it for testing purposes.

[LoHo]

I chased a no-spark for two years until I changed out the pick-up sensors. Apparently, my scabby "pick-up wire repair" had decayed to the point that there was not enough conductivity from the pick-up sensor to the wire, and no spark. I now have other problems, but that solved the spark problem.

BTW, God help anyone who takes mechanical advice from me.

[skids]

I chased a no-spark for two years until I changed out the pick-up sensors. Apparently, my scabby "pick-up wire repair" had decayed to the point that there was not enough conductivity from the pick-up sensor to the wire, and no spark. I now have other problems, but that solved the spark problem.

BTW, God help anyone who takes mechanical advice from me.

I was wondering if you ever resolved that problem!

[LoHo]

Skids, "solved" might be too strong of a word for it. I have spark now, and fuel, and compression, but basically a 643 pound coat rack in my garage. I have "fixed" so many things, hoping to hit the one that will get her going again, that I'm afraid one of my fixes has introduced another variable into the equation. She required little work for 13 years and I thought myself an excellent mechanic, but now I know better.

But I'll figure it out. Or part it out....

[le_bucheron]

Come back in the garage after christmas and some renovation in the house. Got news but nothing good... I fixed my pick-up coil harness. Tried to jump directly the strater... Now i want to order a new battery. I tested some different batteries but not at each time I fixed something. So I read a post about lithium battery on the forum. I'm interessed by these battery because I plan to build a bobber and it is so smaller than acid battery.

What do you thing about this review:

http:// http://www.webbikeworld.com/...le-battery.htm

If you look at the score sheet: battery comparison. The ballistic it is under 10.5v when cranking so can I use this battery if I need 10.5v at the tci during cranking?

Just

[CaptonZap]

If you look at the score sheet: battery comparison. The ballistic it is under 10.5v when cranking so can I use this battery if I need 10.5v at the tci during cranking?

Just

Here is some good news for you. The TCI does NOT need 10.5 volts to operate. It will happily do its deed on 7 volts. The coils, however, are a different kettle of fish. As the input voltage goes down, the output voltage goes down, and at some point, there is not enough output voltage to jump the plug gaps.

Which means that if you have stock coils, and you get low on battery voltage due to a malfunction in the charging circuit, and you REALLY want to get to a battery charger, here is a desperation move.
Park on a hill so that you can run and bump start, or, if you have a kick starter, ignore that step.
Take the tank off, and bypass the ballast resister. (Take the two R/W wires that go to the BR, and hook them together.) That will put battery voltage to the coil at all times. Replace the tank, run and bump, and you can eek out a few more miles, until the coil/s quit. When you first start in this condition, if the battery is 10 volts, the coils will have more than their needed 9 volts, so they may over heat. But desperate times demand desperate measures, eh?
If you have three ohm coils, tough nooogies, start walking.

Goodbye from the Shock Locker, over and out, CZ

[LoHo]

Hey electrical Gurus, check my logic for errors, but this seems to have been my situation:

When you let the starter crank the engine, do you get a spark when you turn off the key? If so, it might not be coils. It could be the pick-up coils/wires not sending the spark messege to the TCI and hence to the coils. If the coils don't get the signal, they spark when the field collapses, as when the key is turned off.

You get one spark at that point, and an occasional spectacular backfire when that one spark hits the combustion mixture when a valve is partly open...ask my neighbors!