Idle screw blocked

[Aches n Pains]

Working on carbs for a friend. Two of the idle screws seem to be blocked by some sort of brass fitting. Ever see this before? Any alternatives to drilling it out?




Thanks,

Aches n Pains

[bikerphil]

If it was me, I would probably start by taking an old small screwdriver and grinding it's tip to a nice sharp chisel point. Then I'd tap that chisel trying to cut thru and collapse the side of the brass collar. Should be able to be done without damaging the aluminum tower.

[natemoen]

That is the brass plug that is on all the late model carbs from the factory. Drill a hole through it and screw in a wood screw and yank it out.

[skids]

The housings that contain the brass plugs are easy to break when you try and pull out the plugs.

[rpgoerlich]

DON'T DRILL IT!
Looks to me that the top is already off of the plug as you can see the pilot screw slot.

[motoman]

The original caps were just a sheet metal insert. Not necessary to have them once things are clean and back together.

[motoman]

The original caps were just a sheet metal insert. Not necessary to have them once things are clean and back together. definitely would NOT attempt to drill for sheet metal screw. Base of those are too close to top of idle mix screws!

[motoman]

DON'T DRILL IT!
Looks to me that the top is already off of the plug as you can see the pilot screw slot.

+1! Dremal with a teeny plunge router bit will split whats left without damaging the tower or top of screw. Could run that idle mix screw in to lightly seated so it would be somewhat out of harms way.

[Aches n Pains]

Thanks, guys. Suspect you saved me time and money again.

Doug

[fredintoon]

DON'T DRILL IT!
Looks to me that the top is already off of the plug as you can see the pilot screw slot.

Hi Richard,
but he gotta drill it. Or remove it some way or another. That remnant of the stupidity plug is stopping the needle from coming out and you gotta take the needle assembly out to clean the carb body passages.
BTW, the rubber slow running jet passage plugs that come in the salvage kit but those carbs don't need coincidentally fit in the needle jet holes to keep the crud out between adjustments.

[CaptonZap]

I would try to find a tap that would start into the hole, and start screwing it in. Once it had a bite, pull the tap out while turning it, and the sleeve should come right out. A plug tap, rather than a taper tap, would be the first choice. And you might have to grind the tip flat, so as not to interfere with the screw. As was suggested, run the screw all the way in (gently) to give yourself the most space. CZ

[ViperRon]

My plugs in the carbs were a solid brass plug nearly an 1/8 thick so I guess there are different types installed. Those appear to have been drilled before. There is a tool called an easy out to remove broken off bolts and screws. If you get a hardened round set I am sure you can bring that plug out. The advantage of an easy out is it is geared to twist the counter clockwise and will reverse anything screwed in. A tap as several have suggested will definately work also but if you get one too big it will thread into the carb and make a mess. Drilling will work but you stand the chance now of drilling into the head of adjustment screw and that will be a problem its just easy to go to far. Chissel cutting will work if its soft but mine were really hard and I am sure they would have slipped down before being cut. Use something like PB Blaster to clean all around it first. Personally I put some Tarnex tarnish cleaner in mine to let it soak a minute it cleans things nice and quick if you just give it a minute. Do not leave Tarnex for a long period it will eat up the alluminum.