ACCT Installed Wrong?

[IanDMacDonald]

Great! Thanks for the assurance Phil and Steve.

[IanDMacDonald]

I should be getting the cylinder head back this afternoon, or tomorrow. I dropped the oil pan gesterday and cleaned out the pan, hpping to find that cam cap nut. No-luck with that. I really looked down that tunnel and found no sign of it. Weird! I just hope it does no damage to the bike once I get it running.
So, I put a new head gasket on it, have the #1 cylinder sitting at TDC, ready to drop this head down. I have a nice "click-style" torque wrench ready to install the head bolts and cam caps, etc. I am going to pace myself and do it right, but I hope to have everything installed and running by sun down.

[WMarshy]

...I have a nice "click-style" torque wrench ready to install the head bolts and cam caps, etc. I am going to pace myself and do it right, but I hope to have everything installed and running by sun down.

Be aware, there is a proper torque pattern and a stepped approach to get to full torque values.

[GLoweVA]

Be aware, there is a proper torque pattern and a stepped approach to get to full torque values.

For the head bolts, YES, but I have never seen one for the cam nuts.

For the cams, once I get them snug, I start in the middle and work outward. (#3,4,2,5,1) (cam cap numbers)

[BA80]

It's probably a good idea to go ahead and set it on the "C" anyway though don't you think Steve? If a cam was sitting where it might want to snap because of valve spring pressure with the tensioner out, you could slip a tooth.

That "C" mark is where the cams will hold the tension on the back of the chain and it's more likely to not jump a tooth with tension on it.

IMHO

[WMarshy]

For the head bolts, YES, but I have never seen one for the cam nuts.

For the cams, once I get them snug, I start in the middle and work outward. (#3,4,2,5,1) (cam cap numbers)

Have you read the manual?

“Install all flat washers and nuts to the studs and tighten them working from the center toward the outside in the following order: No. 3, 4, 2, 5, and 1 for both cams. Tighten the nuts gradually in 2 stages to a final torque of 7.2 ft.-lb. (10 N-m).”

I highly suggest you work directly from the manual on this and if you happen to have any questions you stop and come ask us for clarification. Trying to follow everyone's suggestions can cause confusion. I not knocking anyones advice but the manual is a procedure with (fairly) clear steps and working from it will give you the best chance of success. Any doubts or second guess just ask.

[GLoweVA]

Have you read the manual?

“Install all flat washers and nuts to the studs and tighten them working from the center toward the outside in the following order: No. 3, 4, 2, 5, and 1 for both cams. Tighten the nuts gradually in 2 stages to a final torque of 7.2 ft.-lb. (10 N-m).”

I highly suggest you work directly from the manual on this and if you happen to have any questions you stop and come ask us for clarification. Trying to follow everyone's suggestions can cause confusion. I not knocking anyones advice but the manual is a procedure with (fairly) clear steps and working from it will give you the best chance of success. Any doubts or second guess just ask.

I don't remember seeing that in my manual. Good info to know, thanks.


As far as setting it on C, you've got to have it on T to install the cams and line up the dots, then you can rotate to C and install the CCT.

[skids]

As far as setting it on C, you've got to have it on T to install the cams and line up the dots, then you can rotate to C and install the CCT.

All I can say is that rotating the crank for any amount without the tensioner installed can make you start over. If you need to rotate the crank, don't expect to be able to stck your fingertip in the hole to apply pressure while you are dong this. My advice is to get an assistant to insert a rigid tool in there and hold pressure!

[BA80]

I kinda lost my place in this thread and forgot Ian was installing the head. Fact is that the engine will need to be turned to install the cam gear bolts anyway.

You don't need to lose a finger, a large screwdriver or ratchet extension will work fine like skids said. Just keep pressure on the slipper.

[IanDMacDonald]

Thanks Fellas. I guess I can take my time, as my boss wants me in @ 4p tomorrow, and I have class till 12p. So, I will only have time for very little tomorrow, which may prevent me from turning this into another cluster-mess.

[IanDMacDonald]

Question!

Got the head back this afternoon. First thing I noticed is that the cam caps may be in the wrong location. From what I read, they go from left to right, 1-5. So, looking at the head from the top, with the carb boots in the back, it should go left to right, 1-5, witg the arrows pointing to the right,correct? He has them installed 5-1, left to right, with arrows pointing to the right.

THIS IS INCORRECT, RIGHT?

http://db.tt/8fAHYiJR

[WMarshy]

All arrows face to the right, towards the rubber half moon cam plugs in the side of the head. Caps are numbered 1-5 from left to right. Point of view is sitting on the seat of the bike tooking towards the front wheel (always). Number 1 cap corresponds with number one cylinder... get a manual if you dont already have one. You can download a free PDF version if you follow the link in member Catatonicbug's signature. Tell me when you have one and I'll shutup about it.

[IanDMacDonald]

I have one, thanks. Also, I'm looking at the exhaust cam. How do I know if the end with the hole in it goes on #1 cylinder side, or #4 cylinder side?

[WMarshy]

I have one, thanks. Also, I'm looking at the exhaust cam. How do I know if the end with the hole in it goes on #1 cylinder side, or #4 cylinder side?

Not sure I follow what your question is... the head only goes on one way.
Exhaust valve face the front tire and intake faces the rear tire... #1 cylinder is furthest to the left.

[IanDMacDonald]

Well, got it back together and running; took all night. Trying to tune the carbs is becoming a chore.