alternator output?

[crazy steve]

For a thorough discussion of terminating/splicing wire, look here:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ight=soldering

Lots of opinions....

[natemoen]

Ok, I found the thread I was taking my numbers from, and I will admit that the numbers I was giving were incorrect. My 29 year old memory is failing me......

[IanDMacDonald]

Steve- that was by far one of the most interesting reads of the week! I re-nig on my endorsement of soldering, lol. I guess I always saw soldering as the professional look inside some heat-shrink tubing. I've only used it on small applications such as doing a wiring harness adapter for an aftermarket head unit on my car, etc. I cannot recall doing much soldering on my bikes except for re-doing connections on the controls or solenoid. However, over the past couple of years, I have been using the GM weatherpak connectors, as well as the barrel-crimp connectors I buy from vintageconnections.com for all of my connections in cars, bikes, and boat. I like the stock look of the barrel connectors, and if you crimp them right, u'll have no issues.

[650mark]

wow. all i want to do is stay warm on my bike when it's cold outside

[motoman]

wow. all i want to do is stay warm on my bike when it's cold outside

You should be good to go for another month down there............

[CaptonZap]

Since we're on the subject;

I set up a rig to run the pickup coils in a distributor machine, and the leads from the coils had been yanked , breaking two of them a quarter inch from the coil plastic housing.
I took a piece of copper refrigeration tubing, from the capillary tube of a defunct control, and cut off four pieces an eighth of an inch long. After de burring the ends, I squished them down to an oval shape, and placed one of them over the stripped end of a wire. Using an awl, I squooshed the wire over to one side, and inserted the extension wire into the hole left by the awl. The application of a pair of Vice Grips made the thing flat, and using a pair of crimpers with the tongue that goes into the notch, I folded the flat sleeve into a round one. Came out about the size of the insulation. No solder, and about 3/16 inch long, with the shrink wrap.
CZ

[b.walker5]

i have an electric vest for winter time riding and it requires about 30 watts of power. the temps here in arizona are starting to cool off, some mornings down to the 40's, and i want to use the vest on my xs1100. 240-260 watts of available power will be plenty. thanks to all for the info.

Hey 650, dont forget that your 240-260 watts of power is the maximum power available, and when your loaded up at night with everything running you're geting close to that figure. Ian's right, there is some spare capacity available. but its not a lot, and your 30 watt vest will be putting it fairly close to the limit. I once burned out my alternator with a pair of heated grips which were only 20 watts. Largely my own fault, as i left them on heat up mode one night while riding home in the middle of winter (should have switched them down to low power, but was too cold). I didnt make it home, I still had about 50 miles to go when the coil fried. It served to illustrate just how little spare capacity there is in the power department.

I dont use them now, just bought better gloves.

[crazy steve]

Mark, one thing you might want to do before connecting that vest is make sure that your charging system is working at 100%. Check/clean all connections, paying particular attention to the grounds and the plug behind the fuse panel. Most charging system failures are due to connections, the added load can be a factor. Yamaha furnished an 'power point' on the bikes from the factory with a max limit of 50 watts on it, so if you have 'losses' elsewhere it's easy to go over....

[650mark]

elec system output

somebody correct me if i'm way off base: the system is able to supply about 220-240 total watts, all wiring, connectors, and components are in excellent condition, how many watts are required just for the ignition system to function? headlight=60, taillight=25, gauge lights=20, vest=30 equals 135watts. how many watts do i have left for the ignition system?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Mark,

First of all, the XJ's brushed alt puts out an estimated max ~26 amps vs. the XS's brushless alt at 20amps.

Depending on the voltage the XS's output is then simply calculated to between 240 watts to 290 watts for only 12 volts to 14.5 volts.

The TCI and ignition circuit is rated at 10 amps....I don't think that Yamaha would have set the fuse power level too close to the actual power draw of that circuit, perhaps 50-75%, so I would estimate between 5-7amps, so between 60 to 100 watts! I believe this circuit drives both the TCI and the Ignition coils, but not totally sure.

The values for the headlight, tail/brake lights, gauge lights are correct, but you forget allowances for the TURN SIGNALS....an additional temp load of 54 watts, the horn as well. So...now hopefully you can see how you can run out of JUICE with just the regular functions of the bike alone!

This is why folks have looked at the LED conversion for many of the lights to help reduce the current load considerably, which then allows for the use of additional extras like your heating vest.

I also burned up a REG/RECT with just an extra pair of incandescent running tail lights trying to increase my visibility. Once that happened, I put a new R/R in, and pulled the extra lights, and it was fine. Of course when I then did my rebuild, I did the LED conversion so I could add the pair of 55 watt halogen driving lights. I've since gone way overboard with my Automotive Alt. Conversion, and have plenty of power to spare, but have a big "ugly" box on the right side of my engine!

Another option might be to get a spare bike battery that you could have in a saddlebag that you could use JUST for the vest, NOT wired to the bike's system. Then charge it up every night when you park??

T.C.

PS, you might want to get a VOLTMETER for your bike, so you can monitor your charging system while riding and running the VEST. Also might shut down the vest when you get within a few miles of your destination to help put a last moment charge boost to your battery before you stop/park.

[b.walker5]

... or you could 'harden up' and ditch the vest, and ride like a man....

[James England]

The electrical info given on this forum is invaluable to me!!! It gives a lot better understanding of how I can apply my knowledge better than what the manual offers. I have learned so much from this forum in this area that I am happy to pass on to others. There were days at Kettering where everyone would be so bored with the theory and laws being taught, that I would pull up the XS11 site or Triples site and give them a real-life example of ways we could apply it. One of the posts was your's Steve. Overall, these bikes can handle an add-on or two, but, nothing too crazy. The biggest errors I have seen with novice electrical connections with bikes overall is using too small of a wire gauge size, and the connector used. Quality of connection is always an issue with wiring in-general, and if you use some crappy crimp connector that will fall off with vibration, you are asking for trouble. Do yourself a favor and buy quality connectors, or break out the soldering iron and do it right.

Yes. And ensure that any add-ons have an in-line fuse of the right size. It's not nice if a faulty heated handgrip sets fire to your wiring harness...then the bike.

I've found many of the Chinese import variety of electrical add-ons to be inadequately fused, if at all. I've had some gadgets with the red and black wires reversed (ie red=negative. black=positive) etc etc. Personally, I would ensure that anything added to the bike is isolated in case anything goes wrong. I'd under-fuse it compared to the circuit it's in too. THat way it will blow first.

[James England]

... or you could 'harden up' and ditch the vest, and ride like a man....

Yes, I found that being sure of my manliness more than compensated for the pneumonia I got, riding in foggy, damp conditions....

Just kidding. I didn't get pneumonia. But, I'm wondering.... are heated grips/vests/boots cheating? I feel a poll coming on...... over to you, MAN

[DGXSER]

Once you have put on a windshield (fairing) and wrapped yourself in (fairing with lowers), how much more of a cheat can it be to add heating equipment?

[icecycle]

To be safe you got to be warm. When I ride quad in the cold I wear a long duster often refered to as an "Auatrailian sheep hearders coat". Love the fact that inside the bottom of the coat there are straps which hold the coat in place allowing engine heat to get trapper. It's to light to give protection from road rash but I've been thinking if I had a size large enough to wear a modern summer vest with mesh and skid plates. Could change my name from icecycle to nice and toasty pop tart.