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  • Header bolts

    The 80G I'm bringing back to life has two header nuts that were rusted so bad that they were stripped and won't budge. Anyone have a suggestion(s) how to remove these?

    On a similar note, once I get the headers off, I'll be posting them on the parts for sale forum, cheap for members.

    Thanks
    1980 xs1100G - Sold
    1981 Venturer - Stock

  • #2
    Are you saying the nut just spins in place or that the Allen hole is rounded out? For the latter, I recommend using a set of lcoking pliers and a hammer to break it lose. Also, spray the crap out of it with liquid wrench or PB Blaster. I have had a few that came out stud and all before.
    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

    When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

    81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
    80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


    Previously owned
    93 GSX600F
    80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
    81 XS1100 Special
    81 CB750 C
    80 CB750 C
    78 XS750

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by DGXSER View Post
      Are you saying the nut just spins in place or that the Allen hole is rounded out? For the latter, I recommend using a set of lcoking pliers and a hammer to break it lose. Also, spray the crap out of it with liquid wrench or PB Blaster. I have had a few that came out stud and all before.
      Yeah, the Allen hole is rounded out completely. I'll head out and grab some PB Blaster.
      1980 xs1100G - Sold
      1981 Venturer - Stock

      Comment


      • #4
        I have learned the hard way that I never try to remove the rusted looking stuff without first applying a LARGE quantity of PB Blaster or the like. I also learned that WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

        Sometimes, you can use the next size larger allen wrench and hammer it into the opening when it gets rounded out and it will bite enough to remove the offending nut.
        Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

        When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

        81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
        80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


        Previously owned
        93 GSX600F
        80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
        81 XS1100 Special
        81 CB750 C
        80 CB750 C
        78 XS750

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks, I'll give the blaster a shot. May have to wait until after the storm to pick some up.
          1980 xs1100G - Sold
          1981 Venturer - Stock

          Comment


          • #6
            Might Want ...

            ... to heed on the hammering as this is a delicate area.

            It'll take some abuse but just be careful, also with the locking pliers aka vise grips watch you don't break the stud off.

            If you have access to a welder you can weld a nut on the stripped one and proceed with the PB Blaster, which is the best penetrant IMHO, then work the nut both ways carefully observing that the stud isn't twisting.

            If all this does'nt get your nut off use a Dremel tool with a cutter wheel and split the nut longways on two opposing sides making sure you don't go too deep and hit the threads of the stud.

            A small hammer and punch should knock the remnants of the nut off. HTH
            1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
            1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
            1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
            1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
            1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

            Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

            Comment


            • #7
              Heyya.
              Like these guys said, vice grips, and copious amounts of penetrating oil beforehand. However, you may unscrew the stud instead of the nut; that's what happened to me.

              If that happens, and you don't feel like messing around with the stuck allen nut, just get a fitting set screw and a matching coupling nut from your heighborhood hardware store. I ended up replacing all the allen nuts with coupling nuts--better availability and easier to work with.
              "What are you rebelling against?"

              1980 XS1100 SG "Molly"
              The heaviest cafe racer around.

              Comment


              • #8
                Header Nuts

                Might want to try some direct heat on the nuts. That will free them up so they can be removed. Propane torch may help. Oxy Acetylene is better. Can be done without harm to other components. Use some high heat rated (copper compound) antiseize on threads when going back together.

                MP
                1981 XS1100H Venturer
                K&N Air Filter
                ACCT
                Custom Paint by Deitz
                Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                Stebel Nautilus Horn
                EBC Front Rotors
                Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                Mike

                Comment


                • #9
                  I agree with welding a nut onto it and the heat wil also help to expand the nut on the stud, but if you don't have a welder you could just cut into the nut with a skinny wheel and use a large flat screw driver or equivalent.
                  "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                  Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I often find driving a torx bit into rounded allens works well for removing them.
                    buffalo
                    80 XS1100SG

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by DGXSER View Post
                      I also learned that WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.
                      Correct! It's useless for that. The best stuff I've ever used is Plus Gas. It definitely penetrates and works a treat.
                      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        When you do get around to getting new replacement nuts, Here's what I did:
                        http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ght=rusty+nuts

                        Each nut from Boats.net was $1.49.

                        I've read somewhere on here about getting replacement studs too.
                        Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

                        80G (Green paint(PO idea))
                        The Green Monster
                        K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
                        Got him in '04.
                        bald tire & borrowing parts

                        80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
                        Scarlet
                        K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
                        Got her in '11
                        Ready for the twisties!

                        81H (previously CPMaynard's)
                        Hugo
                        Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
                        Cold weather ride

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Ace hardware carries metric grade 8 auto studs, at least mine does anyway. For those of you who want a new source to try out, my are a has M&M Bolt in Pasco, WA, also Tacoma Screw, Pasco WA. Just a few more places to check for stuff. M&M has everything under the sun, they've never failed me.
                          Last edited by Yard Dogg; 11-03-2012, 11:30 AM.
                          "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                          Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

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