Header bolts

[TheDuck]

The 80G I'm bringing back to life has two header nuts that were rusted so bad that they were stripped and won't budge. Anyone have a suggestion(s) how to remove these?

On a similar note, once I get the headers off, I'll be posting them on the parts for sale forum, cheap for members.

Thanks

[DGXSER]

Are you saying the nut just spins in place or that the Allen hole is rounded out? For the latter, I recommend using a set of lcoking pliers and a hammer to break it lose. Also, spray the crap out of it with liquid wrench or PB Blaster. I have had a few that came out stud and all before.

[TheDuck]

Are you saying the nut just spins in place or that the Allen hole is rounded out? For the latter, I recommend using a set of lcoking pliers and a hammer to break it lose. Also, spray the crap out of it with liquid wrench or PB Blaster. I have had a few that came out stud and all before.

Yeah, the Allen hole is rounded out completely. I'll head out and grab some PB Blaster.

[DGXSER]

I have learned the hard way that I never try to remove the rusted looking stuff without first applying a LARGE quantity of PB Blaster or the like. I also learned that WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

Sometimes, you can use the next size larger allen wrench and hammer it into the opening when it gets rounded out and it will bite enough to remove the offending nut.

[TheDuck]

Thanks, I'll give the blaster a shot. May have to wait until after the storm to pick some up.

[Schming]

Might Want ...

... to heed on the hammering as this is a delicate area.

It'll take some abuse but just be careful, also with the locking pliers aka vise grips watch you don't break the stud off.

If you have access to a welder you can weld a nut on the stripped one and proceed with the PB Blaster, which is the best penetrant IMHO, then work the nut both ways carefully observing that the stud isn't twisting.

If all this does'nt get your nut off use a Dremel tool with a cutter wheel and split the nut longways on two opposing sides making sure you don't go too deep and hit the threads of the stud.

A small hammer and punch should knock the remnants of the nut off. HTH

[GRom4232]

Heyya.
Like these guys said, vice grips, and copious amounts of penetrating oil beforehand. However, you may unscrew the stud instead of the nut; that's what happened to me.

If that happens, and you don't feel like messing around with the stuck allen nut, just get a fitting set screw and a matching coupling nut from your heighborhood hardware store. I ended up replacing all the allen nuts with coupling nuts--better availability and easier to work with.

[MPittma100]

Header Nuts

Might want to try some direct heat on the nuts. That will free them up so they can be removed. Propane torch may help. Oxy Acetylene is better. Can be done without harm to other components. Use some high heat rated (copper compound) antiseize on threads when going back together.

MP

[Yard Dogg]

I agree with welding a nut onto it and the heat wil also help to expand the nut on the stud, but if you don't have a welder you could just cut into the nut with a skinny wheel and use a large flat screw driver or equivalent.

[buffalo]

I often find driving a torx bit into rounded allens works well for removing them.

[James England]

I also learned that WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

Correct! It's useless for that. The best stuff I've ever used is Plus Gas. It definitely penetrates and works a treat.

[GLoweVA]

When you do get around to getting new replacement nuts, Here's what I did:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37362&highlight=rusty+nuts

Each nut from Boats.net was $1.49.

I've read somewhere on here about getting replacement studs too.

[Yard Dogg]

Ace hardware carries metric grade 8 auto studs, at least mine does anyway. For those of you who want a new source to try out, my are a has M&M Bolt in Pasco, WA, also Tacoma Screw, Pasco WA. Just a few more places to check for stuff. M&M has everything under the sun, they've never failed me.