My gas tank derusting nightmare

[copeland3300]

So, as many of you probably don't remember, I've been trying to restore a 1980 1100. The gas tank is powerful rusty. Here's what I've tried without much success and it's result:

A couple of gallons of Evaporust flipped over after 24 hours -> Yielded a smelly liquid, rust still visible

Ball bearings -> lots of noise, most of the really loose stuff broken off, still a lot from what I could hear. There's still one in there.

Electrolysis -> I purchase a battery charger, a plastic tub from Home Depot and some washing soda and used a couple of old brake rotors as my sacrifical anodes. The charger showed 10-13 amps. Lots of crap in the tub afterward, a week of twice daily scraping of the rotors (into another container) then washing them, and still a bunch of visible rust in the tank.

Naval Jelly and chains -> someone suggested using small chains to beat up the inside of the tank to remove loose rust and the chain is heavy and easy to retrieve relative to the BBs. The chain has wrapped itself around some internal structure. I haven't checked it today, the jelly has been in there for 24 hours (without the petcocks or fuel gauge installed) so we'll see tonight.

Next will be white vinegar and salt, the HCl, then filling with concrete and pushing off of a bridge.

I've also heard about molasses that's not desulphured (needs 2 weeks at least), tea (probably also 2+ weeks) and wood cleaner.

I spoke with some radiator shops who won't do it and a bike shop who wants $300 and 3 weeks. No thanks.

Any suggestions before I lose my mind?

[skids]

The chain is probably wrapped around the overflow tube. Use care removing it (don't just yank it). The tank does not have to be completely derusted for some of the tank liner materials. In fact some claim that a little roughness will help it adhere. What ever you use to clean out the tank, it can not leave an oily residue.

[natemoen]

The electrolysis need to be don't on the inside. Putting it into a tub and doing it externally is useless. Your anode needs to be INSIDE the tank.

[jayel]

The electrolysis need to be don't (done) on the inside. Putting it into a tub and doing it externally is useless. Your anode needs to be INSIDE the tank.

True, it's fairly line of sight and be careful it's not touching anything (short out) I've used re-bar with wood blocks to insulate from touching, you also might try phosphoric acid like a concrete etching solution, easy to find at places like Home Depot, Menards, ect.

[natemoen]

Try and stay away from acids. You very possibly could end up with hundred of little pinholes.

[latexeses]

Something like this will work fine.



This is just a old coat hanger. Scuff all of the laquer off the wire or you get next to nothing. Don't let the wire get too thin or it might wind up in the bottom of the tank. This took a couple days to clean. Keep the "mix as full as you can get it.

I know you have read all of this before.

This picture was taken about 45 minutes after I fired up the battery charger. By the way this with an old style charger that will rev up to 8 amps.

[clcorbin]

I did it pretty much like latexeses, only I used a PC power supply and a piece of 1" square steel tubing I had laying around. I bent into the "L" shape he did so I could get it back into the tank without touching the insides. It worked perfectly.

[Rasputin]

When went the Evaporust way I used 4 litres and let it sit a day on each of the positions. A day on its right side and a day one its left side, a day upside down (which amazingly did not leak out the fuel cap) and two days in the upright mounted position. I used it full strength and it worked for me.
The electrolysis method must have, as previously posted a direct line of sight to be useful. It may take several imes for this to work as it is not a majic way to do it quickly.
The chain is likely stuck as someone said on the tube inside the tank. If you hold your mouth just the right way (cuss words) enough times you may get it out. Some members have cut the tank open to get it out.
With enough shaking, rolling rattling and bouncing you may be able to get ball bearings out. Just takes some time and patience.
I would also look for a different shop to acidize the tank as that price is overboard. I had one of mine acidized and coated for 140 bucks. That is not cheap but it does rule out all the pinholes etc after you finally get all the rust out as it has basically a rubber type membrane in it to seal it.
Sorry to hear you are haing such a rough time with it and I hope the members can help.

[jetmechmarty]

I did acid, I did electrolysis, and I did Metal Rescue. They all work. The acid etches the entire surface and converts the rust. Electrolysis will get the whole inside if you stick with it long enough. It takes quite a while. The Metal Rescue method is EZ, it just costs more. The latter wins my endorsement.

[fredintoon]

So, as many of you probably don't remember, I've been trying to restore a 1980 1100. The gas tank is powerful rusty. Here's what I've tried without much success and it's result:

A couple of gallons of Evaporust flipped over after 24 hours -> Yielded a smelly liquid, rust still visible

Ball bearings -> lots of noise, most of the really loose stuff broken off, still a lot from what I could hear. There's still one in there.

Electrolysis -> I purchase a battery charger, a plastic tub from Home Depot and some washing soda and used a couple of old brake rotors as my sacrifical anodes. The charger showed 10-13 amps. Lots of crap in the tub afterward, a week of twice daily scraping of the rotors (into another container) then washing them, and still a bunch of visible rust in the tank.

Naval Jelly and chains -> someone suggested using small chains to beat up the inside of the tank to remove loose rust and the chain is heavy and easy to retrieve relative to the BBs. The chain has wrapped itself around some internal structure. I haven't checked it today, the jelly has been in there for 24 hours (without the petcocks or fuel gauge installed) so we'll see tonight.

Next will be white vinegar and salt, the HCl, then filling with concrete and pushing off of a bridge.

I've also heard about molasses that's not desulphured (needs 2 weeks at least), tea (probably also 2+ weeks) and wood cleaner.

I spoke with some radiator shops who won't do it and a bike shop who wants $300 and 3 weeks. No thanks.

Any suggestions before I lose my mind?

Hi David,
been there, done that, ended up throwing the tank away.
If the chain is stuck, leave it in there.
Electrolysis has worked for others but the anode has to be inside the tank.
The molasses trick works too if you have the patience. Fluid disposal is a problem, that stuff goes bad after a while. I dumped mine down a street drain a block away after midnight.

[conquest87tsi]

Clr

Well I had to replace my beautiful tank with 4 month old paint on it due to a temper tantrum domino effect that involved a thrown swing arm and a fuel tank setting on a plastic lawn chair. Long story short the swing arm busted the chairs leg and the tank went a tumbling.

So... I had to get my parts bike tank opened up to check it out. (No key) I got the cap off and straight rust and 10 year old tupentine. I can still smell it.

Anyway I had read to use CLR and that is what I tryed. The tank. w horribly rusted. Like so bad that I was going to go the standard direction. I bought 3 bottles of CLR and 4 foot of flat stamped/ folded chain. I figured the sharper edges woo better than round "wire" type chain. After 2 days of the CLR soaking and shaking the $hit out of the tank the rust was 95% gone. I was very surprised. I then bought 2 more bottles of CLR to kill the rest. I managed to remove a little more, but there is still a couple little spots of rust. It was kind of strange, I left the tank for two days without shaking it and picked it up and the CLR had foamed to the point that the chain wouldnt move. Then I decided to drain, rinse, and put a gal. of acetone in it with the chain to swash around until I have it painted.

Ill see how it is removing the tank. The stamped chain ahs much smaller holess than wire chain so I dont think the tube will be a problem.

[copeland3300]

So the jelly seemed to work, however the chain is still in there. I feel like the more I touch it, the more it gets stuck.

I'm going to cut out the bottom of the tank and lap weld it back together this weekend.

I hate rust.

I'm not sure I want to line it straight away, I might just let the fuel filters do their job for a bit and see what comes out.

[DGXSER]

If your going to cut the bottom out to get the chain, you should be able to sand the tank by hand anyway.

[copeland3300]

Exactly. At least I'm learning, right?

[Tom Andersen]

I bought an XS650 with a fuel tank that was really bad, put this stuff in overnight and it came out like new.

Fuel Tank Rust Remover &
Neutralizer Kit

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/yamalube.../11339/details