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  • Oil Temp

    Ok so I mounted a oil temp gauge over the last week or so and rode it with the gauge for the first time today. The temp maxed the gauge out at at 150C (a little over 300F). That is a bit too hot! The gauge is a cheap gauge but after I got it all hooked up and started the bike I just let it sit and warm up in the garage and as the temp started going up I would check the temp of the area by the sender with a IR thermometer and it seemed reasonably accurate up to about 60C when I shut it off.

    On my way to work this morning when I shut it off and parked it dropped down to 108C when I killed it but this afternoon it stayed up in the high 140's.

    I mounted the sender Like This

    Any thoughts or ideas? That is way too freakin hot!!!
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

  • #2
    Nate, It seems to me that the sender and the gauge are 'outta sync' so to speak.
    I'd check the specs on the sending unit and see if it tells you what 'output' it has at various temp. Then compare that to the gauge inputs and its display.

    You may be able to 'calibrate' the gauge to get it to 'match' the sending unit output.

    Another thing to try is a bench test: pull the sender out of the bike, put it in some boiling water and see what the gauge reads compared to the actual water temp.

    I've been wanting to do this very mod but haven't found an electronic oil gauge I like and cost effective. I want an electronic one vice a sealed bulb system so I can mount it on my WJ and be able to disconnect it when I remove the fairing.
    Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

    80G (Green paint(PO idea))
    The Green Monster
    K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
    Got him in '04.
    bald tire & borrowing parts

    80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
    Scarlet
    K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
    Got her in '11
    Ready for the twisties!

    81H (previously CPMaynard's)
    Hugo
    Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
    Cold weather ride

    Comment


    • #3
      You don't get specs with el'cheapo...
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

      Comment


      • #4
        I have also purchased a cheepo electronic temp gauge, in the process of wiring it. I made a plate and installed it where the oil level sending unit was. I have not started the bike yet, but I did a bench test with the sending unit sitting in boiling water and the temp reading was correct. I purchased mine on eBay.

        http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-2-1-16...item3ccb19a246

        Larry
        Inventor of the YICS Eliminator. Want one? Get it here.
        http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...399#post183399

        If you're not riding, you're not living!
        82 XJ1100
        80 XS1100G (Project bike)
        64 Yamaha YA-6
        77 Suzuki TS-185

        79 XS1100SF Built this one for a friend.
        See it here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBYT4C9_6Ac

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Yahman View Post
          I have also purchased a cheepo electronic temp gauge, in the process of wiring it. I made a plate and installed it where the oil level sending unit was. I have not started the bike yet, but I did a bench test with the sending unit sitting in boiling water and the temp reading was correct. I purchased mine on eBay.

          http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-2-1-16...item3ccb19a246

          Larry
          That is the same one I bought only in red.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by natemoen View Post
            you don't get specs with el'cheapo...
            :d:d:d:d:d:d
            1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
            1983 XJ 650 Maxim
            2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

            Comment


            • #7
              I use these gauges on 3 of my bikes with good results. The sending unit on my XS11 is in the crankcase drain plug. My temperature runs around 180 degrees fahrenheit normally.

              http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-310012/
              1978 XS1100E
              1982 XJ650RJ Seca
              2001 Yamaha XT225
              2002 Suzuki DR650
              2008 Suzuki DL650 VStrom
              AMA charter life member

              Comment


              • #8
                Nate, just curious. Did your trip to work entail a lot of stop / go stuff, and are you running an oil cooler?
                It'd be quite unusual to find a new gauge that would be so far out of whack if used with it's original sending unit. For my setup, I've since invested in one of those infra red gun thermometer thingies which shows only about a 5 degree difference in the gauge reading to the case temperature near the sender, so it's pretty close to the money.
                There's no chance the live power feed wire could be getting odd voltages that will affect the reading?
                79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
                Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
                *Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
                *"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers

                Comment


                • #9
                  I installed a oil temp gauge a couple months ago as well. I drilled and tapped an oil pan from my a parts bike and just swapped it out when I needed to change oil. The hottest I remember seeing mine go was around 180F I believe, while syncing.
                  I too bought an ebay cheapy, however mine is an analog readout, which I prefer. I basically bought the cheapest F gauge I could find. It even changes colors.

                  I then mounted it to the bars using a universal mirror type clamp. Not a whole lot of room with the clubmans, but it fits. I put a 2" PVC end cap in a lathe and sanded it to fit the gauge and just painted it black.

                  I would look into the wiring. If it is pegging the gauge you may have a ground issue. I remember my guage would peg if I grounded the sender wire. However it is an analog gauge.
                  1979 XS1100 SF
                  1979 XS750 SF

                  Previous Rides:
                  1981 KZ650CSR
                  2006 VTX 1300C
                  1986 Radian 600

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Drive to work is almost all freeway ( driving 50-80mph). No oil cooler installed yet.

                    The sender wire currently runs into the pickup coil wire loom and then up to a connector behind the gauge cluster where it connects into the fairong pigtail. The power comes from.the same wire that goes to my voltmeter, which is coming from the running light circuit on.the bike.

                    Today if It Isnt raining I am.going to take it for a ride, get it hot and check the temp then with the IR meter.
                    Nathan
                    KD9ARL

                    μολὼν λαβέ

                    1978 XS1100E
                    K&N Filter
                    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                    OEM Exhaust
                    ATK Fork Brace
                    LED Dash lights
                    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                    Green Monster Coils
                    SS Brake Lines
                    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                    Theodore Roosevelt

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I am not sure why one needs an oil temp gage on these bikes. Hot oil is good oil. Water temperature in autos is important, but I don't see the need for this. (Although it probably looks nice.)
                      Skids (Sid Hansen)

                      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Oil Temp

                        +1. If you are racing, knowing oil temp is probably important. If not, I see no benefits of knowing/monitoring oil temp. The oil temp on these bikes fits into the "it is what it is" category.

                        MP
                        1981 XS1100H Venturer
                        K&N Air Filter
                        ACCT
                        Custom Paint by Deitz
                        Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                        Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                        Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                        Stebel Nautilus Horn
                        EBC Front Rotors
                        Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                        Mike

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well, it has to be an electrical issue. Temp at the case at the sender was 175F. So it is probably either the input voltage or grounding of the sender. So I guess I will have some remains to work out.

                          As to why oil temp...well, do you remember those old educational commercials, "The more you know"...
                          Nathan
                          KD9ARL

                          μολὼν λαβέ

                          1978 XS1100E
                          K&N Filter
                          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                          OEM Exhaust
                          ATK Fork Brace
                          LED Dash lights
                          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                          Green Monster Coils
                          SS Brake Lines
                          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                          Theodore Roosevelt

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by skids View Post
                            I am not sure why one needs an oil temp gage on these bikes. Hot oil is good oil. Water temperature in autos is important, but I don't see the need for this. (Although it probably looks nice.)
                            I do not have an oil temp gauge. When it's hot out, around 100 degrees or more, I don't like sitting still in traffic, at lights, stuck in a line of cars, etc, with the engine idling and no breeze crossing the cooling fins. How long before it seizes? Do not want to find out. I stop at the light, I kill the engine. Light changes green , hit the starter and move. Next light, kill it. Start it, drive, stop, kill it. A lot. It's not safe for me or good for the starter or start button. A temp gauge would help here.

                            Another situation, still hot out, riding around the mountains in Baja, Mexico: climbing out of a valley, keeping pace with traffic, valves begin tap- tap- tapping like pistons are swelling in the cylinders. Slow down , maybe get run over, or keep going, light on the throttle as possible up hill, in the lowest gear for the speed. BTW, the gas may be a factor, 87 octane from USA, because when I run the Mexican PEMEX gas, the knocking is far less often ( they have no ethanol ?). But a temp gauge would be helpful here, too.

                            Okay, guess I'm talking myself into adding one.

                            scoot

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi Nate,
                              Drive to work is almost all freeway ( driving 50-80mph). No oil cooler installed yet.
                              One thing to keep in mind was that the US spec bikes didn't come fitted with oil coolers due to the blanket 55mph speed limit that was in force at the time of release. All the other versions I know of were fitted with them due to them being allowed to run at sustained higher speeds and Yamaha deemed them necessary after further testing.
                              Still doesn't explain why your gauge reads that hot!
                              79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
                              Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
                              *Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
                              *"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers

                              Comment

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