New XS11 to ride!!!!

[IanDMacDonald]

Ave Thanks for the reply skids. I actually did a search and found a reassembly thread. Well, ontomy roadside gas station story in Fenton.

So, I switched to the Euro bars (easier on my wrists), and now tge throttle cable is too long, causing rpm's to increase when turning to the right. I pulled over to quickly re-route the throttle cable. Well, guess what happened? Nope, cable did not snap luckily, but the cable detached from the carbs. So, guess how silly I looked having a completely diassembled bike at a gas station? Then I had everybody and their brother asking me questions, including a city, county, and State cop all within the 45 minutes I wasthere. On top of all that, my left petcock is always on, so, when I detached the fuel hose from it, the thing started pouring gas everywhere. I quickly turned the tank on it's side and ran it to the grass. I finally was able to get it all back together, and not a lick of difference, lol. I guess I'll have to but a shorter cable. And to just top it all off, I'm pretty sure my dog pissed on my bike jacket, because this thing smells like straight piss! Ughhh. My side cover lock hates me, and the simply insert key instruction doesnot work. It's a stupid design that makes no sense. Anywho, got brakes to look at, and that's it.

[natemoen]

Depending on how much too long the cable is, you could unit in front of the steering neck and back on the left side of the bike, so that it runs a longer route to take up theatre length.

[madmax-im]

Nice bike you have there...a note about oil...You have to look on the back of any oil "can" and find a round label ...if it says eenergy conserving on it...then DO NOT USE IT!!! Becaause those oils have friction modifiers which will make our wet sump clucthes slip...doesnt matter if its Dino or Synthetic oil...the main ingredient in friction modifiers is usually MOLY...so you want a NON-MOLY oil...If you buy m/c specific oils then you dont need to worry about this,but if you just buy any old engine oil then you need to pay attention to that label...Looks like you'll have a great ride there for a long while...

[IanDMacDonald]

Hmm. Is this forum recommending against using Rotella T5 or T6 in our bikes? The GS and Triples forum actually recommended the Rotella due to the low detergents used in the formula. I was told to stick to Diesel oil like Delvac and Rotella T5. Not trying to start another oil thread or argument, but, this is now the second comment regarding my use of Rotella in this thread, and I am starting to get worried.

[madmax-im]

I'm not suggesting any specific brands so it really doesnt matter what you use as long as it does not have those friction modifiers as I stated above then you will be fine. If you've alread used the Rotella and your clutch is not slipping then its okay to use...just a FYI on "energy conserving oils"...You would notice a slipping clutch very quickly after using a Moly based oil.

[CatatonicBug]

For oil, use the ones with the label that looks like this, where the bottom half of the circle is empty:



NOT like this:

[CaptonZap]

Hmm. Is this forum recommending against using Rotella T5 or T6 in our bikes? The GS and Triples forum actually recommended the Rotella due to the low detergents used in the formula. I was told to stick to Diesel oil like Delvac and Rotella T5. Not trying to start another oil thread or argument, but, this is now the second comment regarding my use of Rotella in this thread, and I am starting to get worried.

Are you a Chevy, Ford, or Dodge man?
Are you a synthetic, dino, or vegetable (castor) base man?
Just heed the previous post, and use some oil CZ

[madmax-im]

Good pics Bug...

[IanDMacDonald]

I'm a lover of all cars, never been one to take sides. I'm not really old enough to have been a Mopar guy, or Ford guy, or Chevy guy from the time's past. I think that love is something from the older generation where those brands were ingrained for various reasons. My Grandpa worked for Ford as the Wixom plant supervisor, but that's as far as that went. Nobody in my first family had any automotive ties except working on cars in our driveway to save on dealership service. My parents never had Chrysler, but everything else. I own a Honda, Buick, Chevy and Ford, so, it's obvious I don't play favorites. All my cars run great, and therefore allows me no bias. But, the Rotella T5/T6 has a clean label on the bottom circle, just saying. About a year ago, I decided to spend a weekend reading all of the forums on oil use with these bikes. And hands down, every single one of them (including this one) said to use the Rotella T6, or T5. Hell, my buddy is a diesel fleet mechanic for all the Muffler Man vehicles (his uncle is the VP of Muffler Man, and his Uncle's best friend is the President), and he said just about everything he knows uses Rotella, from ships to locomotives, etc. So, I now use Rotella in all of my vehicles, etc. Never had an issue. Any leaks were due to my fault.

[IanDMacDonald]

Capton- I shamefully seized two 750 engines due to not checking the oil level on a daily basis. Those 750's almost drank oil they ran so hot. I have no intentions of allowing my 11 do the same.

[erithanis]

I'm not suggesting any specific brands so it really doesnt matter what you use as long as it does not have those friction modifiers as I stated above then you will be fine. If you've alread used the Rotella and your clutch is not slipping then its okay to use...just a FYI on "energy conserving oils"...You would notice a slipping clutch very quickly after using a Moly based oil.

I wish I had known this with my last XS. This was probably the reason for my mysteriously slipping clutch; even after replacing the carbon pads and doing everything I could think of adjustment wise on the clutch tension.

[tarzan]

I use Rotella.I even use it in my Victory, which recommends a synthetic blend.
For some reason it is hard to find T5(synthetic blend).So I mix T6(full synthetic) with regular Rotella. It's a good oil IMO. And the cost is even better.
I once made the mistake of trying automotive oil with friction modifiers in my XS11 and it not only made the clutch slip a little. After sitting for week or so, for some reason the discs stuck together.It was a bitch getting them apart.I'm not sure why that happened, but once I changed back to an oil without friction modifiers, the clutch was fine.

[IanDMacDonald]

Tarzan- Walmart sells T5 at a great price.

[shousey440]

oil filter

wix filters come with a new o ring for the "pan".

[madmax-im]

I wish I had known this with my last XS. This was probably the reason for my mysteriously slipping clutch; even after replacing the carbon pads and doing everything I could think of adjustment wise on the clutch tension.

even though this is discussed regularly...it still is better to ask anyways