trin's 1979 xs1100sf build

[terratek]

Yeah I'm having issues with my tach. Mine is supposed to hook up to the coil, but it's not working, I may have fried it, but I'm sure it's a bad ground in there. I see what your saying with the digital speedo. I assume it's programmable right? That could be convenient unless you have to reprogram it every time you disconnect your power. Food for thought. The only reason you would need to get rid of your auto cancelling unit is to change bulbs, or maybe you flasher went out and you don't want to buy another one. Does it work?

Well, what I was thinking of doing is using an arduino with a gps logging shield for the base, and leds for the indicator lights. I had more time to work on the concept while I was in austin helping out some friends, here is what I have come up with so far.

Base System:
Arduino Mega or Arduino Nano + appropriate logging gps shield, sensor wire for run/stop conditions, battery backup and load settings from sd card

All Idiot Lights:
12v waterproof led panel indicators - separate from main system

Speedometer:
Primary - GPS (benefits: calibrates on the fly, waypoint tracking, compass, altitude, numerical heading)
Secondary Ideas-
1) electronic speedometer sensor modded for cable drive, can calibrate based on pulses per revolution and tire size.
2) Hall effect sensor mounted to brake with magnet mounted through disc

Tachometer:
Pull from coil, on/off divided by 2 (wasted spark should be 2 pulses per rev)

Display:
7 segment led displays for tach x1k, speedo, compass. Touchscreen or small lcd for other uses, usb port for programming / interface, or do it all through the sd.

I would like to use the arduino to drive some micro pixie tubes, but pretty sure i would get sick of troubleshooting that before i even get close to a working prototype. Would make for a killer steampunk theme though.

As far as the auto-cancelling unit, no clue if it works yet. My aunt went into surgery, wedding (and for some odd reason dating) anniversaries came up, plus helping rebuild a deck, and helping out a friend in austin... Been so busy that half the time I don't know what day it is.

I am hoping to get to the wiring again on monday if everything goes well and run checks on the emergency lighting and cancellation units.

[jwhughes3]

Trin,

After several hours of ultrasonic sessions, those carbs are coming along nicely, they should be done tomorrow after the jets and bowls finish. Rack body is done. All that crappy black spray paint is gone . Based on how much crap was blocking the two pilot jets you got out, I dont hold much hope the other two are gonna clean up without getting them out. It will run, but those #3 & 4 cyls are gonna idle crappy. The rest of the powerband should be ok.

Probably need the smallest EZ-out and a left hand drill bit. I am missing that smallest ezout one. I can tell you I have had ZERO luck getting those out and destroyed the last two bodies I tried on.

Give me a call tomorrow if you want to stop and pick them up.

John

[fredintoon]

- - - I dont hold much hope the other two are gonna clean up without getting them out. - - - Probably need the smallest EZ-out and a left hand drill bit. I am missing that smallest ezout one. I can tell you I have had ZERO luck getting those out and destroyed the last two bodies I tried on. - - -

Hi John,
I've had good luck using a bench drill as a press to get jets out ; here's how:-
Grind the tip of a long series hex bodied screwdriver bit to be the best fit you can get in the cratered remnants of the jet's screwdriver slot.
Put the bit in the drill chuck.
Set up the carb body on the bench drill platform with the jet directly under the screwdriver bit.
Bear down on the drill feed handle as hard as you can to keep the bit pressed into the remains of the jet's screwdriver slot.
Turn the drill chuck BY HAND to screw the jet out.

[jwhughes3]

Fred,

Thanks for the tip. Trin is welcome to use my press to try. There are no slots left by PO, just a center hole (at least). I could put a needle grinder bit in the dremel and try cutting a slot but it would be so tough to see with dremel bit in there too.

John

[terratek]

I think i will skip trying to remove them for now, crappy idle is better than no idle. I still need to send the second to last po the transfer paperwork so i can get the title taken care of, work on electrical, lighting, brakes, etc.

Just tossed a brisket in the pit to smoke, waiting for the wife to get back from the store with more supplies, will see if i can get out of here for a bit once she is back.

[fredintoon]

Fred,

Thanks for the tip. Trin is welcome to use my press to try. There are no slots left by PO, just a center hole (at least). I could put a needle grinder bit in the dremel and try cutting a slot but it would be so tough to see with dremel bit in there too.

John

Hi John,
my experience with easy-outs is that they'd rather snap off than work nice and it takes a diamond drill to get the end out of there.
A left-hand drill bit should work except the average amateur-level drill press won't run backwards so you are stuck free-handing a hand drill or looking for one of those old-fashioned hand-drill/bench drill adapters.
Alas, it looks like Trin will be either very lucky or totally screwed.

[terratek]

eh, no such thing as totally screwed. worst case scenario is a bad idle until i can find/afford a couple of donor carb bodies. May try to tap a torx bit into it to remove it as i have had luck with that in the past, and it won't screw it up bad enough that i can't still try a lh drill bit afterwards.

I guess i should be a lil more worried about it, but quite frankly, after removing the bowls and finding the dark green ooze in one of them, was expecting more problems

[fredintoon]

- - - May try to tap a torx bit into it to remove it - - -

Hi Trin,
I'd never have thought of doing that.
Finally! A good reason for dreaming up yet another screw head system and another addition to the bodger's mental toolbox.

[Yard Dogg]

I made the mistake of not using a left handed drill bit on one of mine. While I was drilling the bit grabbed and sunk it down to far and ruined the seat on the bottom. If I'd had a left handed drill bit, chances are it would have grabbed and screwed it right out of there. I ended up using a none bleeder jet in it's place cause I didn't have the seat to seal anymore.

[terratek]

John, thanks for running them through, they look great. Hooked them up last night and.... no love.

Am pulling them off the rack today and going through them to see whats going on. So far no fuel has made it into the carbs (or rather, very little fuel). Did a test on the float valves, and they aren't letting fuel flow on carbs 1&2 (pulling as sets).

Hopefully will get the fuel issue figured out before nightfall, as it would be infinitely easier to move the bike out of the way for halloween with it running :P

have my netbook outside with me, so, if anyone has ideas on what to check while everything is torn down, feel free to post them.

[terratek]

cleaned out the t connectors, cleaned out the fuel inlet passage, removed the float valve screens, reassembling now.

[jwhughes3]

Good idea..without breaking the rack that can be trouble spot, though i blew compressed air thru those and seemed ok.

Check float heights...on brass floats its 25.7 mm from base without gasket i believe. (someone will correct me if I am off)

John

[natemoen]

For early model carbs 25.7 without gasket is correct. Make sure both floats of each set match and be anal about it.

[terratek]

was anal about it, but must not have been anal enough.... 3 carbs have no gas, 1 does.. going to have to bend the d*** floats instead of the tabs... starting to rem why i never liked multi-carb systems

travis is working on the floats now, we'll see what happens. his eyesight is better than mine when it comes to eyeing how even something looks. chalk another fun fix up to po's.

[terratek]

carbs are now getting fuel, so... need to rebuild petcocks at some point, but for now. reinstall and start testing in a bit