trin's 1979 xs1100sf build

[terratek]

Non-runner picked up for 450. I was told it had a leaking carb, bad wiring, and a fried starter. Title was never transferred so I hunted down the original seller and was told it had a bad cylinder as well.

Not sure what it will look like when finished, but here's a rundown.

Lists will be updated as time goes on

Known Issues:
Not currently running, compression test is not bad though
Cylinder 3 needs to be helicoiled.
Wiring harness needs to be gone through
Missing center stand
Missing spring on kickstand
Missing gas tank bolt
Missing air cleaner
Missing tool box
Missing Octopus (4 gas lines currently run to carbs)
Left switches have broken high/low switch
Right switches have broken run/stop switch
Turn signals are dead
Brakes are sticking (but work)

Semi-Issues:
Seat needs to be recovered
Headlight is probably from a windjammer as the bucket is labeled Vetter
Headlight installed at an angle
Aftermarket turn signals need to be replaced
Front-end is air assist
Fuse block was replaced with inlines
I think the pipes have been cut and mufflers replaced (unsure of replacement used)
Tank has semi-bad bondo job to debrand it

Non-Issues:
Hunted down original owner, so title will not be an issue
Starter works fine
Kickstart works as well
Tail and brake light work
Headlight works, but needs some work
non-stock handlebars.. Not sure if I want to keep them, but they aren't bad


Stuff done so far:
Lubed ignition switch and fork lock
Tightened battery ground
Used another battery to revive dead (0.03vdc) agm battery
Compression test
Tested brake and tail light
Tested headlight
Tested starter
Removed the makeshift (tape/foam/boot) air filters
Plugged the carburetors since it's been raining

Here are a few pics.

[haywardguy929]

Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. My first thought was it would be great if you could find a parts bike. Either way I'm sure the guys here can help with all your issues and help find parts. Good luck, keep us updated on the progress.

[crazy steve]

At least you're starting with a reasonably complete bike; both sidecovers are there, as is the seat (all hard to find parts). Exhaust looks decent, looks like it might need a bit of rework where the new mufflers were attached. But a good starting point...

I see lots of elbow grease in your future....

[Yard Dogg]

First thing I'd do is tackle the wiring. It's cheap to fix and you may iron out a few problems the PO thought it had, but actually didn't, like the dead cylinder thing. Maybe it just wasn't getting spark? You may have a good engine after all if the compression is fine.

[terratek]

I finished disconnecting, cleaning, and greasing pretty much every connector on the bike. Haven't bothered to test it yet as I was going to replace the oil filter and add oil (empty when i bought it).

Oil filter bolt is rounded off.. Figure I will spray it with some kroil tonight, then attack it tomorrow.

[BA80]

That one is more complete than ol' okie was when I got him.

[terratek]

Heheh the worst bike I ever bought had moss growing on it, while loading it the exhaust disintegrated, was missing pretty much everything (i bought it for the frame). Put 2 oz of diesel in each cylinder, let it sit for a week, and would move the kicstart a little each day.. Finally grew tired of waiting and spent half an hour jumping on the kickstart. Once the pistons broke free, did an oil change and it fired up.

Which brings me to this one.. I hammered a 12mm socket onto the oil filter bolt, and the filter housing/filter/threaded pipe, etc are all sitting in the drain pan as one piece. To make things more fun, the oil drain bolt won't come off either. The filter had a decent amount of "please, for the love of god, someone change me" oil/sludge/varnish/water in it.

So now, i am taking a break, as I don't want to round off the drain bolt.

[terratek]

Finally got it loose... Another shot of kroil and a lug wrench...

When i checked it before, i thought it was dry / no oil... come to find out that it was full, but the milky color gave it a nice sheen that had me fooled.

I dumped the drain bolt and the filter assembly into a bucket with some goop.. will mess with it in a bit and see what's sticking.

[Yard Dogg]

My bike sat for at least 9 years if not longer. I squirted some transmission fluid in the cylinders and let it soak for 2 days. Then I put it in gear and started jarring the back tire until it started to move. It broke free and squirted fluid all over and pretty soon I was turning the motor by hand. The thing runs great. It's hard to kill these motors.

[WMarshy]

Finally got it loose... Another shot of kroil and a lug wrench...

When i checked it before, i thought it was dry / no oil... come to find out that it was full, but the milky color gave it a nice sheen that had me fooled.

I dumped the drain bolt and the filter assembly into a bucket with some goop.. will mess with it in a bit and see what's sticking.

White milky oil is a sign of water in the oil, make sure you let that drain well and replace the filter too. I recommend you refill it with some cheap oil (dollar store or what have you) because you should change it again before you actually ride it. Once you have proven it will start and stay running, get yourself a box fan to provide some cooling and let it idle for 15 minutes or so. You could add some Seafoam to the oil also, that will clean it out good. just follow the instructions on the bottle and read about using it in the oil on here...

[terratek]

It's more like brown cruddy oil, a far cry from the actual choco-latte vw oil after they sit for a bit... I put in 2.5 quarts of cheap oil for now, will top it off when i have it in a more level position. Installed a new filter and plugs as well..

Ran the battery down cranking it to distribute oil, but had enough juice left to hit it with starter fluid and get it to cough.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tek,

One thing that stuck out in your original description was about the OCTY gone, and all 4 hoses from the tank going to the carbs!

The 79 carbs only use/need 2 fuel inlets, the LOWER ones on the carbs! The Upper ones are for the bowl vents, and need to be vented, not just connected/plugged to each other! They/the upper tubes would normally be connected to the nipples on the OEM air box, but since you don't have one, you can connect them to a "T" fitting, and then to a fuel filter and left open to the air for proper venting, the filter will keep bugs out! If they are capped, they will cause the carbs to flood! And IF you have fuel lines from the petcocks going to them, they are not venting, and you can actually get fuel coming in there instead of the lower fittings! You can cap off the front petcock spout, it's just for PRIME, the rear spout will flow just fine in ON position!

Before trying to start it, you would be best advised to pull and thoroughly clean the carbs, disassembly down to the main, pilot jets, emulsion tubes, etc., Just do NOT soak the carb bodies in Caustic Carb cleaner, it will damage the butterfly shaft seals.

If you have welding skills/equipment, you can put a nice 14mm NUT on the end of the stripped/rounded 12mm head of the filter bolt for future ease of loosening.

T.C./ADMIN

[terratek]

Heheh
Yeah, jwhughes3 came by while I was cleaning up (emptying the old fuel in the tank, etc), and I asked him about that as it didn't seem right. He told me what they were for and I had a head slap moment, figured that may be why the po's had problems with overflowing carbs and such..

He also dropped off a return spring for my kickstand, as it is limp, a service stand, and one of your fuse blocks. So when he left, he left me with parts and a severe case of bike envy.

My petcocks have off/pri/on/res, I will either block off the front or t into it until I get the baggage built and the reserve tank installed (if i still have one around).

The carbs will probably end up getting cleaned over at john's place, as he has an ultrasonic that i won't have to disassemble the rack to use. I don't plan on doing much more testing of the ignition at this point. Maybe some separate squirts of starter fluid and ignition test to see if one of the coils is out. Other than that, it tries to run, and that's a load off of my mind

As for the nut, it actually seems to be pretty much ok after hammering the 12mm socket on. I double-checked to make sure it would still remove easy, and all is good for now. When I have the bike running well enough, I will probably go ahead and either order a replacement, or one of your spin-on adapters.

If I get time away from the wife this weekend I will probably get the center stand installed, kickstand spring, and the fuse block, then rip the headlight off to start going through it. I am pretty sure the wiring for the original light was bypassed, but still haven't gone through all the wiring yet.

trin

[jwhughes3]

TC,

I went over and met with Trinity today ... Nice fella and nice project he's got on his hands. The bones are good anyway.

We discussed the fuel lines. PO had BOTH air vents and fuel tees hooked to petcocks

He has no plans for replacing the Octy...just Y those petcock nipples to inline filters and use OFF position on petcock. He isn't planning to run any gas soon until the tank is clean and ready.

He has got it to where it fires off on ether and I invited him over to my garage to drop the rack in the ultrasonic bath with PineSol when he has time and get it synched.

Got him fixed up with one of your fuseblocks I had and a centerstand off my parts bike. (dont sweat those parts Trin - tell the wife they are an early anniversary present )

He has had alot of other bikes so I expect he will make fast progress on this one.

I think we'll be able to setup an airbox, I have enough parts of one I think.

John

[BA80]

be careful with that ether trin. You'll blow the head off of it or toast the rings.