For Those Who Have Installed Harley mufflers...

[Courtney]

Now that I've calmed down : Spoof on Ads from a well know tool company

If you look at the flickr link I posted above while ranting, you'll also see some really funny "ADS" for a well known tool outfit we KNOW we all go to far far too often. I'm much more calm now, sorry folks.

[bikerphil]

Courtney, Flikr will not allow pictures to be posted directly on this page according to their terms. A hosting site such as Photobucket will let you do this.

[Courtney]

Okay thanks Phil, now that my bloodpressure has gone back down to almost normal, I'll check that outI guess photobucket is my new site.

[Courtney]

Pictures posted this time!!

Here are the pics I was trying to share. Flickr can go take a hike.

[unicorncomputer]

Jetting question

I currently have an XS1100 special 1979 with stock mufflers that are rotting out. If I were to go the route of putting on some HD screaming eagles, would I have to rejet the Carbs? If so, what is the process for doing this?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

[crazy steve]

I'll note that the part number on the one shown identifies it as a '97-03 Sportster rear muffler. All Sportster mufflers '86-03 will interchange, with a minor bracketry change on the '86-88 versions that won't matter for this swap. The reason for different part numbers in this range is the internal baffling to meet changing noise requirements.

[CaptonZap]

I currently have an XS1100 special 1979 with stock mufflers that are rotting out. If I were to go the route of putting on some HD screaming eagles, would I have to rejet the Carbs? If so, what is the process for doing this?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

The first thing to do is to get the mufflers on. Then install some clean plugs, and go out and ride it, just like you always do. Then come back, and look at the plugs. That will tell you if you need to mess with the carbs. If you do think you need to mess with the carbs, there are how to's in the files, and people here who will guide you.
But if you don't know what you are doing, or are not willing to learn how to do it properly, you stand a chance of doing more harm than good to the bike.
The CV carbs, if they are stock and adjusted properly, are very adaptible to the air flow through the engine, and if the mufflers slow it down, the carb compensates for it, up to a degree. So don't borrow trouble, until your plugs tell you what they need.

CZ

[Courtney]

Need some HD muffler clamps for my sportster mufflers above.

I bought the fancy ones that you put a wrench on and there is a bolt across them and they wind tighter. sometimes called aircraft clamps. They suck. I want the stock ones that are wider than these 3/4" ones and just use a nut and bolt. Anybody got some, want to trade, or know where some are available at a reasonable price?

[crazy steve]

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/4400200

[Yard Dogg]

Everyday low price of 1 kidney, and one left arm. I feel even more lucky now. The guy I got my mufflers from sold me the whole shebang, pipes clamps and all for $35. It pays to know 1%'ers.

[crazy steve]

That's cheaper that $14 each from mother Yammy...

And those are the heavy-duty versions; J&P has cheaper ones....

[Yard Dogg]

They are really good clamps, I just never knew the cost of them.

[unicorncomputer]

Thank you for this, I wasn't sure if anything had to be done prior to riding it at all. Last summer I learned how to remove, clean/rebuild and then sync the carbs. It was a surprise how much smoother the bike rode after syncing the carbs.

Steve

The first thing to do is to get the mufflers on. Then install some clean plugs, and go out and ride it, just like you always do. Then come back, and look at the plugs. That will tell you if you need to mess with the carbs. If you do think you need to mess with the carbs, there are how to's in the files, and people here who will guide you.
But if you don't know what you are doing, or are not willing to learn how to do it properly, you stand a chance of doing more harm than good to the bike.
The CV carbs, if they are stock and adjusted properly, are very adaptible to the air flow through the engine, and if the mufflers slow it down, the carb compensates for it, up to a degree. So don't borrow trouble, until your plugs tell you what they need.

CZ

[CaptonZap]

Thank you for this, I wasn't sure if anything had to be done prior to riding it at all. Last summer I learned how to remove, clean/rebuild and then sync the carbs. It was a surprise how much smoother the bike rode after syncing the carbs.

Steve

Great, you are halfway there!
Now go ride it for a while, and look at the plugs when you get back.
It helps if you start with new ones, but if you can't swing that, see if you can find someone to clean the old ones with an abrasive blaster.
Blow them off, being sure there is no abrasive left down in the insulator pocket, wire brush the threads, apply some anti sieze to the threads, being careful NOT to get any on the center portion, put them back in, torque properly, and go ride.
Depending on a lot of variables, when you check the plugs, you will have a starting point of where your carbs are, mixture wise.
My view is that unless you are doing some really high speed, hard pull runs, it is difficult to get an accurate reading on the main jets, due to the slide diaphragms not opening all the way until the RPMs are high, and the butterflies are full open. The butterflies can be full open, but unless the cfm past the slide is high, (high RPM) you won't get full lift on the slide, and thus full open throttle.
So tune for idle first, tune the needles next, and see what color the pugs are, after everyday riding. Then you can go up or down in main jet size, and start all over with the idle, needle, etc. A fiddlers dream.

Good luck, CZ

[Yard Dogg]

The common procedure for adjusting your jet size by color of the plug is called chop testing. I can only speculate on the exacts of how to do this on these bikes because as before mentioned, these are vacuum operated throttle slides. On a carburetor with a mechanical slide such as a dirt bike you would test like this.

You start by putting a piece of tape on your throttle housing, then you mark the tape at half and full throttle. Warm the bike up and set your idle mixture. Put a new plug in and ride the bike in top gear at full throttle. Pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch without allowing the bike to slow down on engine compression. Check the color of the plug. Repeat this step in top gear at half throttle.

The mid throttle test will tell you if you need to change the pilot (secondary) jet, the full throttle test will show you if you need to change the main jet. A white plug means too lean (needs a larger jet), a tan colored plug is ideal, and a blackened plug means too rich (smaller jet needed). When you chop test, you must hold the throttle for 10 seconds in order for the color of the plug to show the best reading. If you don't then the color can change rapidly.

On this bike with the vacuum throttle slides, I would probably just use the tack to find mid and high range. You could test at 1/4 RPMs, and 3/4 RPMs just to be thorough. Obviously this is a dangerous method at 125 MPH so a long smooth straight away and no cops around is necessary. Use your own judgement. I plan on chop testing my bike ASAP once reassembled.