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For Those Who Have Installed Harley mufflers...

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  • For Those Who Have Installed Harley mufflers...

    ... we'd like you to look at them and post the part numbers stamped into them, with the goal of putting together a list/tech tip of Harley's that have mufflers that can be swapped onto the XS bikes. Any notes/pics of needed mods to install would be great too!

    All OEM Harley mufflers (and Screaming Eagle versions too) will have a part number stamped on them (and they probably won't be the same for both) consisting of a five digit number followed by two digits. There may be a letter suffix after the two, that's needed also. So a typical number will look like this: 65605-87A. If you know what year/model Harley they're off of, post that too but the part number is the best indentifier.

    THANKS!
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

  • #2
    I'm using a set of Screaming Eagles off a Sportster. Part # 80063-95AF. They sound louder, throaty, but are not hard on the ears. I don't hear any of the bad echo type engine noise from the exhaust like some aftermarket pipes. I haven't chop tested yet, but I think I would have to go down a size or two on the mains if anything. I went ahead and welded the Sporty mufflers to my headers so I could attain the angle and up-sweep I wanted to clear the swing arm, while keeping them high enough for cornering and low enough to avoid burning my leather bags. I love em.
    Last edited by Yard Dogg; 10-17-2012, 06:20 PM.
    "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

    Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

    Comment


    • #3
      My Harley muffler install ended in FAILURE. The mufflers were stressed to hard to get them into the "correct" position. The right muffler completely cracked at the weld at the muffler inlet.

      Comment


      • #4
        been there done that..

        The sporty muffs do that....

        i've cracked a few sets that way, but i installed extender pipes and custom hanger brackets it works ok.. it's the vibration of the xs11 that cracks them.

        i've had very good luck running the touring muffs on the xs11's

        and very good luck with running sporty muffs on xj650's and 750's.

        i'll try and get some numbers for ya..
        1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.
        1981 Yamaha XJ750RH Seca (War Pig) XS11S front end and rear swingarm with 17" rim, 20mm ammo box saddle boxes, HID headlight, LED aux lights, Heated grips & seat, Bark busters, Harley 12" shocks, S.S. brake lines, oil cooler

        PW50, PW80, YZ80(mine? what the??? Brrap OH...)

        Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by MindWebs View Post
          ...it's the vibration of the xs11 that cracks them...
          That's a bit surprising; given how much most Harleys shake, you would think the mufflers could take that. I wonder if stiffening up the rear rubber mount would help with that....
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

          Comment


          • #6
            I really had to wrench my mufflers in to get them up tight to the swingarm and not have them splayed way out. I may try again in the future.

            Comment


            • #7
              The best way to mount these mufflers is welding them. I cut a 2 inch section of pipe to clamp the mufflers to and butt welded that to my exhaust headers. If you look at the stock exhaust headers, there is a section nearest to where the muffler clamps, or is welded on that narrows a little before the collector splits. I like to cut them right before the section narrows to allow the pipe I'm going to weld on enough movement so I can position the muffler just right. If you just try to slip the muffler on, you'll still be stuck with the same angle which will not be right. Custom brackets are a must also. Cross over tubes are not needed with these muffler because the exit hole is larger on a single harley muffler. The stock system uses both exits with the cross over tube. I'm using 115 main jets instead of my original 12.5 on my XJ1100. Still haven't chop tested but it runs out great so far.
              Last edited by Yard Dogg; 10-29-2012, 07:02 PM.
              "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

              Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

              Comment


              • #8
                Here are the numb ers on the pipes


                Had to hammer the right side for the rear brake to work.




                They are attached with a flat aluminum bar that I bent (all ready had the holes in it) slipped on the stock headers and clamped down. They could be lifted a little more I have not scrapped the pipes yet but I have scraped the kikestand tab...And yes that seat was attacked by a dog. Now need new foam and a new cover)
                Last edited by tcoop; 10-30-2012, 10:30 PM.
                Ty

                78 XS1100E - Now in Minnesota
                80 XS1100LG - The Punisher
                82 XJ1100 - Current project - The Twins
                82 XJ1100 - Wife's Bike - The Twins
                82 XJ1100 - Daughter's Bike
                72 Suzuki TS125 - Daughter's Bike
                72 Yamaha Mini JT2 - Youngest Daughter's bike (She wants a bigger one now)

                Comment


                • #9
                  I didn't do it. I like to chew on shoes.
                  "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                  Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    vroom vroom..

                    almost any harley meff will work, with minor tweeks needed.
                    i ussually cut out ther engine side exhaust baffel

                    I started with 12” long exhaust pipe adapters 1 7/8” ID to 1 7/8” OD, IIRC? Please double check.
                    I cut the factory pipes before the foot peg, but it’s your call as to where you cut them.
                    Tap the extension pipes on and prop the muffs into place using wood blocks for checking mounting clearances, cut extensions to desired length.
                    Now remove headers and weld pipes onto the headers. Be sure to keep pipes straight.

                    Now that the pipe is prepped

                    Let’s make the muffler mounts, again prop the muffs where you want them to be.
                    Take a piece of cardboard and start by holding the cardboard behind the muffs where the bracket needs to be
                    And draw a rough sketch of how the bracket needs to be, now fine tune the drawing and make cuts half way through
                    the cardboard to help you figure out the needed bends as well.

                    Now that you have a template, find a piece of your favorite type of metal, aluminum, stainless mild… whatever..
                    And cut out your brackets, before you bend both pieces keep in mind that you need to make mirror images, one gets
                    Bent one way the other side gets bent the opposite way.

                    hold new brackets in place mark them for bolt holes and drill.

                    i have a better write up in a word doc with pictures if anyone wants it.

                    the sporty muffs i had to weld a 3/4" or bigger... can't remember the exact size,washer into the exit end to change the pitch of the sound, (drop it lower) it had a high pitch to start out with that i didn't like.

                    also to remove the engine side baffle it is cleanest to use a hole saw and and extention, i have one set up if anyone around here needs it.

                    the reason my sporty's cracked was due to the "high RPM" pitch to the exhaust pulses it stesses the welds... i also do not have them mounted in the original rubber mounts, i use the back of the passenger foot peg bolt to mount it.

                    so i'm thinking they're taking a beating from vibration.

                    let's not get side tracked on the vibrations of a H-D, i have a 1200 sporty, i know.

                    tuneing and rejetting is on a bike by bike thing, i was able to open the mix screw up a 1/2 turn and it seems good.

                    Good Luck and happy Wrenching.
                    1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.
                    1981 Yamaha XJ750RH Seca (War Pig) XS11S front end and rear swingarm with 17" rim, 20mm ammo box saddle boxes, HID headlight, LED aux lights, Heated grips & seat, Bark busters, Harley 12" shocks, S.S. brake lines, oil cooler

                    PW50, PW80, YZ80(mine? what the??? Brrap OH...)

                    Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      When you remove the baffle, the mufflers fail to break up the resonant frequency. You will loose mid range RPM performance even with new jets and you may be right about the higher vibrations too. Screaming Eagle mufflers will give you the throaty sound with the baffles still in.
                      "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                      Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        sparky.....?

                        The high freq resinations was with all baffles intact, i removed the engine side baffle after i welded in the washer, the main reason i remove the baffle is to allow faster flow, i noticed a slightly slower accel with the baffles.

                        This is my opinion!!!, i have no data to back it up, this is just a seat of the pants estimation.

                        please try you muff's with the baffles first, then if you buy them like i do 2-3 sets at a time for $10 a set, then cut the baffels on a set and test run it again.

                        i just run the standard H-D muff's i haven't come across and screaming eagle sets cheap.

                        i did have to put H-D air shocks on, these i believe are 13" shocks.
                        the reason for this is that my mounts hold the muff's flat pointing strait back
                        and i was grinding them when i cornered hard or flipped the bike side to side at low speeds goofing around. it was very amusing grinding harley parts into sparks.

                        my shocks where original and worn out i'm sure.
                        the air shocks where $60 and to mount them all you have to do is knock the rubber inserts out of the original shocks and press them into the H-D shocks.

                        i did reload them with 5wt fork oil.

                        sorry didn't mean to get side tracked.

                        H-D muff's, cheap!! fairly easy and shiny new chrome for your machine!!
                        i get mine at the donnie smith bike show & swap meet
                        http://www.donniesmithbikeshow.com/
                        1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.
                        1981 Yamaha XJ750RH Seca (War Pig) XS11S front end and rear swingarm with 17" rim, 20mm ammo box saddle boxes, HID headlight, LED aux lights, Heated grips & seat, Bark busters, Harley 12" shocks, S.S. brake lines, oil cooler

                        PW50, PW80, YZ80(mine? what the??? Brrap OH...)

                        Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Cool, I only brought it up cause there was a post on this forum a while ago that had a really good you tube show on exactly what happens inside exhaust pipes. Let me see if I can find it.
                          "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                          Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Here are my Harley Mufflers of ???

                            This is a shot of the mufflers. They look low, but it's just the angle I took it at.

                            Here is the muffler no.

                            Anybody hazard a guess as to how I'm going to remove all that black paint on my engine and diff? I'm going for collector plates and the bike has to look completely stock. Gonna try and sneak the mufflers past the insurance people. They want pictures of front, sides and back.
                            Last edited by Courtney; 01-15-2013, 07:06 PM.
                            Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Last message I just posted

                              OK, I'm THOROUGHLY pissed off with this whole picture bulls**t. What a f***ing STUPID way to have to post pics. I f***ed around with this for 1/2hr and just about put my fist through the f***ing screen. Man am I pis*ed!!! Then I TRIED to edit it and it said I'd run out of time after 10minutes !!!! Geez, no wonder the doc said I gotta watch my temper, before I kill myself.

                              Here is the link to the pics I TRIED to attach here.

                              http://www.flickr.com/photos/chookvw/ I suppose that won't work either.

                              Courtney
                              Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

                              Comment

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