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Looking for float post repair

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  • Looking for float post repair

    I'm looking for a way to repair a broken float post. The top part of the float pin hole is broken. The bottom half of the hole is still intact. I found a thread on here before where someone drilled a tiny whole in the post and threaded a piece of wire through it and twisted it around the pin. Now I can't find that thread. I was wondering if anyone knows if it's still on here or have a better solution to my problem.
    79 xs1100 special
    7000miles
    pod filter, 4-1 exhaust
    147.5 main jets, 45 pilot jets

  • #2
    About 12 years ago I was rebuilding a set of carbs for a friends KZ650 and when trying to to tap out a badly corroded float pin the top broke off. I repaired it using low temperature aluminum repair rod and a butane pencil torch.
    You build up the post with rod then sand it back to shape and carefully re-drill the hole through it. He had the bike for 5 years with that fix before selling it and as far as I know it's still working.
    80 MNS; 80 F; 82 Maxim 650

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    • #3
      It Is somewhere, but you know the idea already. Drill a hole and tie it down with some wire. That's really all there is to it.
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

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      • #4
        I think this might be the one you're talking about - CLICK
        79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
        Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
        *Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
        *"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers

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        • #5
          Float post repair

          I have done the fix you are talking about. The top of the post had broken off even with the middle of the hole. After a lot of discussion here, I used a Dremmel tool with a 1/16th inch drill bit to bore through the center of the post almost half way down the post. I used stainless steel wire to loop through the hole and over the pin. I twisted the wire to secure the pin firmly in place. Do not try to get this too tight, snug will do. When you cut off the excess wire, be sure to leave enough of the twist to hold, but short enough it will fold out of the way. Be sure it does not interfere with float movement. Worked for me.

          Sorry, I had photos of the repair, but they are gone somewhere into the eithersphere.

          It is really not too hard, just take your time placing the hole so the wire will be out of the way. Let us know how it goes.
          1978 XS1100E "Goliath"
          Full Pacifico faring
          Hard saddle bags
          Hard trunk
          Uni air filter
          In the process of restoration

          It is impossible to rightly govern a nation without God and the Bible. George Washington

          Let us with caution indulge the supposition that morality can be maintained without religion. Reason and experience both forbid us to expect that national morality can prevail in exclusion of religious principle. George Washington

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          • #6
            I used the wire method for a while, but it did not prove good enough for me. I ended up making a new post out of aluminum and then machining the broken post flat, drilled a hole in it to accept the mounting stud of the new post and then press fit them together. I then drilled and tapped the assembly so I could use a small screw through them both to ensure they stayed together.

            If you go this route (which does provide a very nice repair), be sure you only have a very light press fit or you will break the casting. Pretty cheap, weak aluminum in the carb bodies.
            -- Clint
            1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

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            • #7
              This is how I did it on mine



              hope this will be of help. I used a wire from a installalation wire (mutli-wire) 2.5 mm2 or something like that. Seems to work OK.

              regards
              E.0.

              1978 XS1100E, Marshall 4-1, otherwise stock
              VIN#:2H9005181

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              • #8
                Simple, uncomplicated. nice.
                Skids (Sid Hansen)

                Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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