Shifting Issues

[lakecountrydave]

Once again, thank you Once I turned the shift drum by hand (while spinning the rear wheel) the bike started shifting through all of the gears again. I cannot spin the rear wheel with the clutch pulled in, but I just half *ssed putting it halfway back together. Tomorrow I will reassemble it properly, and I will adjust the clutch again. Hopefully, that will do it. If not then I will take the clutch apart like you suggested.

I am so relieved that she shifts through the gears gain. I was very worried about trying to fix the transmission. I want to thank everyone who talked me through this issue. I greatly appreciate the help

One last question with this issue. What did turning the drum by hand do? I am happy that it fixed the problem, but I have not a clue how it worked. Will this problem reappear when I ride the bike and leave me stranded? Opps! That is two questions

[DGXSER]

What did turning the drum by hand do?

Confirmed that the problem was in your shift pawl linkage and no in the transmission itself.

I am happy that it fixed the problem, but I have not a clue how it worked. Will this problem reappear when I ride the bike and leave me stranded?

Sorry, we only answer one question per post......well....ok...My best guess is that in putting the engine back in the bike, somehow, the shift pawls got misaligned. Make certain the C=clips are all in place on both ends of the shift fork shaft. After you get the shift cover in place put the shift lever back on and repeat running it through all gears several times. If it continues to work successfully, then your chances have greatly diminished of the problem re-appearing. Time and experience have taught me never to say the problem is solved unless you know for certain what the cause was and that you changed something specific to fix it.

[James England]

Now that you have the transmission changing gear, just make sure you get the gearbox into neutral, then line up the gearchange pawls correctly, with the dots adjacent to each other. Then put the casing back on and verify that the gearchanges are OK but........

because the gearbox needs firm pressure on the change lever and the wheel moving, it's a lot easier with the engine in the bike and then rocking the bike forward and backward to get the gears to engage. On my bike, for example, if I wanted to select 5th gear with the engine not running (for some reason), I would 100% have to push the bike forward/backward slightly at each gearchange through the box until 5th. Then again to get back to neutral. The gearbox is designed to have gears changed with everything spinning around and moving, not stationary. As has been said, this is to get the dogs to line up with the slots. Doing this by hand, without the leverage of the gearchange pawl assembly is very hard. Once you get the bike back together, I doubt you'll have a problem.

[lakecountrydave]

Thanks again guys! You have taken a weight off my mind that has had me worried for a year.

I had to use pliers to get into second the 1st time after that it required very little force to switch between gears by hand. My bike always shifted easily although it did/does have the tractor like clank.

Also, once it shifted the first time both sets of marks were lined up. Although, I checked this in second gear like TopCat stated in this thread:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ghlight=clutch

Was that correct or should I open her back up and line them up in neutral like James stated in post above? Or should I wait until I get back to the garage and read the manual

[James England]

Was that correct or should I open her back up and line them up in neutral like James stated in post above? Or should I wait until I get back to the garage and read the manual

Sorry, what I said was misleading. The dots should line up all the time when the shift lever is not touched. ie once aligned correctly, they stay that way. I would personally do that bit with the bike in neutral, just so that, when I put the case back on, I know what gear the bike is in (ie not in gear!), that's all.

If you have the dots lined up with the gear lever at 'rest' ie no pressure or lifting of it by hand, then that's it done.

[lakecountrydave]

I checked the marks in second gear. I thought I remembered them lining up in each gear, but figured my memory was incorrect as both you and TopCat had specified a gear to use. Glad to know that my memory isn't as bad as I had thought.

On another note either the pictures of these areas are awful in the Clymer's manual or I am going blind Thank goodness for the wonderful pictures on this site

[bikerphil]

Also, once it shifted the first time both sets of marks were lined up. Although, I checked this in second gear like TopCat stated in this thread:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ghlight=clutch

Yes, everything should line up like shown in post #7 of the above thread with the bike in 2nd gear.

[motoman]

I checked the marks in second gear. I thought I remembered them lining up in each gear, but figured my memory was incorrect as both you and TopCat had specified a gear to use. Glad to know that my memory isn't as bad as I had thought.

On another note either the pictures of these areas are awful in the Clymer's manual or I am going blind Thank goodness for the wonderful pictures on this site

Shift pawl alignment IS done while tranny is in second gear as stated.

[ViperRon]

I would not put it back together without pulling the clutch apart and cleaning and checking it. Something as of yet caused you to get things into a bind to cause this and a poorly operating clutch can cause issues. You may pull it out and find nothing but its not much time to do that. Since you emptied it of oil and it set for some time it may have rusted up like mine did. My problems came after a period of time and was clutch slipping. I pulled it cleaned it up using TC's pictorial lead threw and cleaned a lot of rust out. The clutch continued to slip some but was much better and finallyremedied by new springs. I am just suggesting a couple of hours work to possibly eliminate further problems.

[DGXSER]

The alignment of the line on the shift pawl lever that works the shift drum , and the same line on the shift drum is done in second gear. The aligment of the shift pawls, the two dots on the "hand" looking pieces, lines up when the shift lever is at rest no matter what gear, including neutral, your in. Easiest would be to do both while you have the bike in second gear.

Certainly can not hurt to pull the clutch and clean it all up while you have it torn down this far, however, if you already pu that side together, I would see how it is running and let it go. None of the problems you described indicate the clutch being the issue.