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I'm seriously considering this and found some tips I thought I would pass on,if anyone esle has done this and can add anything I'd appreciate it,thanks.
Instructions
1
Use a wire brush and a cleaning product, such as paint thinner, to remove dirt and grease. Sand the pipe lightly. With latex gloves on, wipe the surface with thinner once again. Use tape and newspaper to mask off anything you don't want painted.
2
Buy paint that resists high heat, such as PJ1 high-temp paint. You can find spray cans of it on websites and at auto parts stores. You also can use flat black paint made for barbecue grills--it's available at many hardware stores. Spray on several light coats, letting them dry in between.
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3
At the end, warm up your bike for about 15 minutes. Let it cool, and warm it up again for about a half-hour. This slow warming process helps the paint cure.
4
After painting, use header or heat wrap on the first 6 inches or so. Even high-temperature paint will peel near the engine, and wrapping makes it look better. The wrap is available at hot rod shops.
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400 grit for sure. then go over the entire pipe with a Red 3/M scotch pad with adjax , yes I said ajax with a littl bit of water. This will make sure you get all the grease and oil off the pipes. The most important part is do all of this while wearing rubber cloves. Otherwise everywhere you have touched these sanded down pipes with your bare hands the oil from them alone can soak into the open pores and cause major Fish Eye. And ya might want to also check paint from VHT for Headers might give you a better finish.
Ive been using Rustoleum High Temp Barbeque/Grill paint. It works very well. I have found that when painting an exhaust it seems to help if you let it cure for 3 or 4 days before starting the engine it doesnt turn "dull" as fast.
That stuff or the PJ1 paint. If you heat it lightly several times and let it cool off, rather than just cooking the poo out of it, it will stay on. I used to touch up my flat black header on my SR500 occasionally, let it cure overnight, then started it up the next day, let it run until too hot to touch, turned it off, repeated several times. Then it would stay on. Pipe must be properly prepped or nothing will make it stick. Wipe down with starting fluid on a rag as the last step before paint, it gets all the residue off.
Instructions
1
Use a wire brush and a cleaning product, such as paint thinner, to remove dirt and grease. Sand the pipe lightly. With latex gloves on, wipe the surface with thinner once again. Use tape and newspaper to mask off anything you don't want painted.
2
Buy paint that resists high heat, such as PJ1 high-temp paint. You can find spray cans of it on websites and at auto parts stores. You also can use flat black paint made for barbecue grills--it's available at many hardware stores. Spray on several light coats, letting them dry in between.
Sponsored Links
Try Corel PaintShop Pro
Get Corel's Latest Photo-Editing Suite. Try It For Free Today!
Corel.com
3
At the end, warm up your bike for about 15 minutes. Let it cool, and warm it up again for about a half-hour. This slow warming process helps the paint cure.
4
After painting, use header or heat wrap on the first 6 inches or so. Even high-temperature paint will peel near the engine, and wrapping makes it look better. The wrap is available at hot rod shops.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
400 grit for sure. then go over the entire pipe with a Red 3/M scotch pad with adjax , yes I said ajax with a littl bit of water. This will make sure you get all the grease and oil off the pipes. The most important part is do all of this while wearing rubber cloves. Otherwise everywhere you have touched these sanded down pipes with your bare hands the oil from them alone can soak into the open pores and cause major Fish Eye. And ya might want to also check paint from VHT for Headers might give you a better finish.
Ive been using Rustoleum High Temp Barbeque/Grill paint. It works very well. I have found that when painting an exhaust it seems to help if you let it cure for 3 or 4 days before starting the engine it doesnt turn "dull" as fast.
That stuff or the PJ1 paint. If you heat it lightly several times and let it cool off, rather than just cooking the poo out of it, it will stay on. I used to touch up my flat black header on my SR500 occasionally, let it cure overnight, then started it up the next day, let it run until too hot to touch, turned it off, repeated several times. Then it would stay on. Pipe must be properly prepped or nothing will make it stick. Wipe down with starting fluid on a rag as the last step before paint, it gets all the residue off.
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