Topped out...

[jimbyjimb]

You people are insane.

Good luck and Godspeed...

[Crazy Damian]

Fast and out of tune,

It's amazing how fast and well most bikes can perform even when they are so far out of tune.
My XS1100SF isn't tuned properly right now, but I took it out for a quick test ride and it goes from 0-100 before the end of the onramp and then easily climbs to 115-120 in the next 1/4 mile. Carrying my 210lb frame, pod filters and no mufflers.
But remember something if it takes 1 mile to get that last 10-15MPH when you are already doing 120mph, thats only 30 seconds or less.
And before someone says it, NO I do not know if my speedo is 100% correct, but it's close enough.

Damian

[BA80]

You people are insane.

Good luck and Godspeed...

Insanity is relative.

[Rasputin]

Ok. I like that you are willing to ride at high speed unlike some others. I believe a high speed chop will help. If a bike wont hit the RPM while loaded at high speed then (in my opinion) all the jetting may be faulted.
Take the bike out to your favorite place to flaunt laws and even better if you can find a slight uphill climb. Walk on that old girl to her max and try to hold it for a moment or two. Then simply pull in the clutch and switch the kill switch off in one united motion. The silence will be very eerie trust me on that. Coast to a stop (hopefully you know this place to flaunt laws well) at an exit or side road.
Now whip out your (previously thought of) plug wrench and pull them. Check the color. That will tell the story in a heartbeat if you are lean on the jets or possibly the float height is wrong. If they are pure white it is lean at the high end. If they have tan color then we need to look at other things. If they are darker brown in color you may be too rich.
Point is that if you want it to perform at that speed you have to do the checks that will tell you your answer. This will not tell you which is wrong but it gives you a base to start with. Then you get to go back to your favorite place again. Every time you change something....YOU GET TO DO IT AGAIN...which is one of my favorite parts.
You get to pound down the road after every float change or jet change or coil change and see if your bike likes it or not. In my mind you can do every change ever mentioned on this forum and not get your answer until you actually try it out.
I know many will disagree with me on this but hey it is fun as well as effective!

[petejw]

jat
check that the vent in the gas tank isnt blocked
or u might need to open it up a little to prevent
any vaccuum in the gass tank.

u could also try opening up the mixture screws
half a turn or so on each and see if the extra fuel
helps with the top end.

[XS11UFO]

Even when brand new, these bikes topped out at about 135, and getting that last 10-15 mph took some distance. My '78 could pull to a bit over 135 indicated (probably about 125 actual) in fifth, but it took at least a mile to get the last 10 mph....

This was 1978 when I was still sure I was bulletproof...

Ditto for my 79F, and I was bulletproof, tucked to the tank, and 50 lbs. lighter

[ViperRon]

Do the checks as mentioned by Rasputin but to get top end out of any engine it must be in top notch shape. Several little things can cause loss of power as mentioned poor power to coils. Other things also factor in like wear on cams and the possibility of weak valve springs not to mention compression. Other things that can cause starvation at full load are any clogs in the petcocks or fuel filters reducing flow presure to carbs. One other thought in all this effort to get max power is these bikes I feel were originally tuned to run lean to reduce emissions. My bike is running a little rich but it has reduced the heat greatly and my gass milage is not that bad at about 37 with original final drive. A problem with running lean is heat and its effect on engine parts. If you are going to run high speed expecially on hot days you would be better running a little rich rather than lean. Its a painfull thing when a piston gets a hole, a valve warps, and oh so much worse a rod starts knocking.

[felicity_true]

ViperRon, what did you mean if a "rod starts knocking"? I'm new to the inline 4 carbed engine scene and I hear "knocking" coming from my engine. Sounds like it is only happening in my 4th cylinder.

[Crazy Damian]

Rod Knocking

The bearings that are in the bottom of the piston rod on the crankshaft.
When they go bad it will let the rod have some play in it and as a result the rod will move a little and allow the piston to hit the head and it makes a knocking noise.
repair is usually rebuilding the engine if caught early, if it goes too far and "Throws a rod" well then it's usually an engine replacement as it will tear everything to hell most of the time.
But also keep in mind these are OLD bikes and they make a ton of noises even when running right.

Damian

[T99Ford]

Nobody has mentioned it yet, but if you want to go faster than what you did, get a faster bike...for all the hype, the 11 is 30 year old performance, and you prolly can't beat most production cars on it. The weight and relatively low power are working against you.

Was your speed indicated, or verified? I am pretty skeptical of the 135 MPH reports of most of the streeted 11's today--mostly from riding corrected bikes that will hit 170 and seeing what those speeds actually are. Most speedos get grossly inaccurate at those speeds, and on an 11, anything over 100 MPH feels fast and becomes hard to judge correctly. I'm not saying they won't, just that most of them won't.

No disrespect for a great bike, but it is the reality.

Welcome to the world of needing large HP gains to get only a few MPH more from your bike. This is even more true on the 11, since it is not as easy to adjust gearing as on a chain driven bike. If you are wanting a noticeable gain, I think your cheapest viable option would be a 20 hp wet nitrous shot. I would bet you could pull redline in fifth with this setup, and still maintain all the streetablity of your bike. If you use it properly, it is not overly hard on the motor, either. The biggest thing to remember is that it is a free air engine, and heat will be your big enemy. You will have to limit your runs on NO to keep from burning pistons. I added nitrous on my VTR racebike in order to be able to pull the 6th gear redline and break the 150 MPH mark. I geared the bike down, and then added the nitrous to fill in the blanks. It works really well, but you have to be careful--it's a slippery slope.
You can set up your nitrous in two ways as well. You can run it on a manual switch (I use this method, since it's what I'm used to from my sledding days), or set it up with a WOT switch on the carb linkage. The second might be better for your application, since it will automatically inject the NO when you are at full throttle in any gear--effectively speeding up your acceleration times. A simple arming switch keeps it from working unless you want it to. There are no jetting changes, and the bike runs as stock until you turn the system on.
With a 20 shot, you won't notice a huge power surge, either. You'll likely gain 2-300 RPM, and feel the bike gently pull harder, but it will not be a wheelie inducing shot like you see in the movies. A kit for your bike will likely only run $4-500 too, which is a whole lot less than serious engine mods that produce only half of that result.

Whatever you do, post it up so we can see the results!