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  • kill switch?

    I just finished putting the carbs back on the bike after a rebuild, but now the kill switch is broken so I can't even turn it over to see if she runs!

    Problem is the whole switch is missing from where is it supposed to be, and in the "hole" where it sits is the 3 prongs it uses to open and close the circuit. It looks like the switch part that actually rotates just popped out of the seat.

    Is there any way to wire this out of the circuit, or can I get a replacement anywhere?

    Thanks again....

  • #2
    For the time being, you can just uplug the circuit, and put a jumper wire in place of the switch. Remove the headlight, and find a two wire connector that has two red/white wires in it. These should be the kill switch wires. On the end that comes from the fuse box (main harness) is the end where you need to place the jumper wire. Use a test light , with the ignition on, to find which red/white wire has power. That is the plug you want to jump.

    Comment


    • #3
      OK, that's what I was hoping for. Just to clarify by jumping you mean connecting two of the wires? Don't mean to sound ignorant but I'm not very good with electrical.

      Is there any reason to try and actually fix the switch? I don't really see any need to have it, but maybe I'm just being dumb. You can turn the bike off with the key and there's a inertia switch in case you lay it over, correct?

      Comment


      • #4
        hi there

        on ebay there is a brand new kill switch listed
        so far no bids yet
        starting bid is 30.00
        http://home.securespeed.us/~xswilly/
        78E main ride, since birth the "good"
        78E Parts, the "bad" fixing up now
        78E Parts the "ugly" maybe next year
        79F Parts
        80G Parts
        75 DT 400B enduro

        Comment


        • #5
          Is there any reason to try and actually fix the switch? I don't really see any need to have it, but maybe I'm just being dumb. You can turn the bike off with the key and there's a inertia switch in case you lay it over, correct?

          I'm not 100%, but I think that *legally* if the bike came with one, you still need to have it in order to pass an inspection... y'know, if that's your sort of thing...

          It probably varies by state, though...
          '80 XS1100 SG <== now parting post 45mph wreck

          '79 Jeep CJ7, my other lover and drain of cash...

          Comment


          • #6
            On my return trip from Big Is. Deuce My hand accidently moved my kill switch and the bike suddenly died. That woke me up for a few miles.
            Just checked it the other day, it doesn't move now, frozen . I may have to fix that sometime.
            Pat Kelly
            <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

            1978 XS1100E (The Force)
            1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
            2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
            1999 Suburban (The Ship)
            1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
            1968 F100 (Valentine)

            "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

            Comment


            • #7
              Do you guys think this one would fit? I just need the actual rotating part of the kill switch, everything else is still there on my bike. Anyone know of any other sources for this besides ebay or junk yards?

              http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=10066

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              • #8
                Anyone??? I wanna snatch this up if it will be able to fix my kill switch....

                Comment


                • #9
                  Worst case scenario you're out $5 plus a bit for shipping and have a part that you cannot cannibalize. Then you can go to a boneyard where they see 'the look on your face' and how bad you want it and they sell you one for $20. I think chances are pretty good that Yamaha did not make a lot of different button sizes from model to model....
                  Ken Talbot

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                  • #10
                    I bought a large box of switches off eBay and in there were a few SR250 throttles. They have the same kill switch as the XS11 and take the same throttle tube but have an udated starter button that's not going to fall apart like the ones on our bevloved 1100s. I'm going to keep 2 for myself and I was going to put the others up on ebay. Let me know if you need one.

                    Geezer
                    Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

                    The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Jinxed

                      Of course after posting about my "run/stop/run" switch no longer turning, I started my bike today and it quit. I jiggled it (still dosen't turn) and bike started right up.
                      Geezer, if you still have a switch available I'd be interested.
                      P-LKelly@sbcglobal.net
                      Pat Kelly
                      <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

                      1978 XS1100E (The Force)
                      1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
                      2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
                      1999 Suburban (The Ship)
                      1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
                      1968 F100 (Valentine)

                      "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Geezer-
                        I'd be interested in one of those too, how much are you thinking?

                        Does anyone know if you can just pop the rotating piece out of the new switch and push it in the old one, or do you need to replace the whole assembly?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The "rotating piece" is removable by removing the clamshell from th handlebar, undoing the two wiring screws and the mounting screw below, then the pole piece seperates by removing the c-clip underneath the rotating piece. Watch out for the spring and ball bearing inside so they don't launch! And when you re-install it, take note that the mounting screw and wiring screws are different. don't mix them up. Good luck.

                          Randy

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I took one that was bad and soldered a wire between the contacts and buttoned it back together. It was always "on" but it worked fine for a year until I came across a good replacement.

                            Originally posted by COxs11newbie
                            Geezer-
                            I'd be interested in one of those too, how much are you thinking?

                            Does anyone know if you can just pop the rotating piece out of the new switch and push it in the old one, or do you need to replace the whole assembly?
                            Skids (Sid Hansen)

                            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by COxs11newbie
                              Geezer-
                              I'd be interested in one of those too, how much are you thinking?

                              Does anyone know if you can just pop the rotating piece out of the new switch and push it in the old one, or do you need to replace the whole assembly?
                              With this part you'd want to use the whole thing because of the updated starter button.

                              BTW, I only had 2 available and you're first and the other one is spoken for too.

                              Geezer
                              Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

                              The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

                              Comment

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