clutch plates for xs1100g 1980

[JCHarth]

Hello I just got the ebc ck2230 kit. I am not sure that it is going to work on my bike. I found a few single plates on ebay and they listed all the xs1100s so I got the kit. I also got the gasket YM-309 wich seems to work for all xs1100s too. Can anyone confirm this?

[trbig]

Can't confirm/deny the plate numbers, but I would advise you to leave them on the shelf, put in some Barnett clutch springs with your old discs, and ride it. In all the motors I've had apart, I've only seen one or two clutch friction discs slightly out of spec thickness, and that's being harder on them than the average guy with wheelies and tons and tons of stoplight launches with a 750/850 final drive. Even IF the clutch plates are out of spec, the Barnett springs will fix you up. And don't be fooled into spending a couple bucks less on cheaper springs. I've been through probably a dozen cheaper "Heavy Duty" sets of springs.. changing them 2-3 times a year in some cases.. and have had these Barnetts in there 2 or 3 years. They'll get that clutch to hook back up for you.

[WMarshy]

Can't confirm/deny the plate numbers, but I would advise you to leave them on the shelf, put in some Barnett clutch springs with your old discs, and ride it. In all the motors I've had apart, I've only seen one or two clutch friction discs slightly out of spec thickness, and that's being harder on them than the average guy with wheelies and tons and tons of stoplight launches with a 750/850 final drive. Even IF the clutch plates are out of spec, the Barnett springs will fix you up. And don't be fooled into spending a couple bucks less on cheaper springs. I've been through probably a dozen cheaper "Heavy Duty" sets of springs.. changing them 2-3 times a year in some cases.. and have had these Barnetts in there 2 or 3 years. They'll get that clutch to hook back up for you.

Since he already bought them and would be going into the clutch (to change springs) 80% of what it take to replace the frictions, I would advise you to replace them since you bought them and enjoy another 30 years of good operation...do get the HD Barnett springs though, they are a must regardless. just my 2 cents.

[trbig]

Since he already bought them and is going into the clutch 80% of what it take to replace the frictions, I would advise you to just replace them and enjoy another 30 years of good operation... just my 2 cents.

My point is that there's usually nothing wrong with the originals, so why replace what ain't broke? Even new frictions are going to slip with crappy springs. Then, if you ever do need them.. you've got them.

[WMarshy]

My point is that there's usually nothing wrong with the originals, so why replace what ain't broke? Even new frictions are going to slip with crappy springs. Then, if you ever do need them.. you've got them.

I understand where your coming from Tod but since he already bought them... Think preventative maintenance...ever heard the sayin' why do something twice when you can do it once..? Unless of course, if its worth doing once its worth doing twice

[JCHarth]

Thanks I got the springs. I might as well do that too. Can I drive the bike with the clutch sleepery or will it break things even more? So plates, gasket and springs should do the trick. Do I need the spacer plates too?

[WMarshy]

Thanks I got the springs. I might as well do that too. Can I drive the bike with the clutch sleepery or will it break things even more? So plates, gasket and springs should do the trick. Do I need the spacer plates too?

You can re-use the steel plates, just lighty clean them up with some 150 girt paper and hose them off real well with carb cleaner... You dont really need a gasket if you dont want. I have re-used mine 2 times now with no leaks. You can continue to drive the bike if the slipping isnt too bad but keep in mind, the more you do the more wear you put on the steel plates and increase the risk of damage/wearing them out. If you get them too hot they can warp but it would take a lot to do that... Go to the maintenance/repair section for tutorial on how to disassemble the clutch. The extra steel 'mod' tutorial show the disassembly and reassemble of the clutch basket, just ignore the part about adding an extra steel plate.

You should soak the frictions in an oil bath for an hour or so or at a minimum, make sure they are completely soaked (I dont who determined the time frame or if it truly is necessary).

[JCHarth]

I saw a video on you tube and it seems like a easy procedure. Almost easier that replacing the clutch lines on my new bike. Do I need to train all the oil before changing the clutch plates or would leaning the bike on the peg do the trick?

[trbig]

You can just lean it n the sidestand.

[WMarshy]

I saw a video on you tube and it seems like a easy procedure. Almost easier that replacing the clutch lines on my new bike. Do I need to train all the oil before changing the clutch plates or would leaning the bike on the peg do the trick?

IDK who made the video or if it was a XS1100 but all you need to know is on here. Follow this tutorial and you will be all set...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9481

If you were doing just the springs you could do it on the side stand as all the oil would go to the low side but since you need to take the basket off to chance the frictions it would be easiest on the center stand...

[trbig]

If you were doing just the springs you could do it on the side stand as all the oil would go to the low side but since you need to take the basket off to chance the frictions it would be easiest on the center stand...

Why? What's the difference?

[trbig]

I wasn't asking that because I didn't know the answer, I just didn't understand your reasoning is all. When you replace the springs, you're right there at the basket. Only thing left to do is zip off one nut and pull the basket.

The only reason I'd drain the oil is if I dropped a washer in there or something.

Speaking of washers, there's a large one that sits between the basket and the case and there's a similar one that sits down in the bottom of the clutch basket under the plates. Don't confuse the two. One lets oil get to your clutch shaft bearing and one doesn't. I posted a thread on here somewhere about that.

Oops.. here it is.. 2nd page with pics if it doesn't load that way.


http://xs11.com/forum/showthread.php...h+shaft&page=2

[WMarshy]

Why? What's the difference?

I recommend the center stand because getting the rear tire off the ground will help when you have to roll the tire forward or back to get the block of wood in the spoke... I'm sure it could be done on the side stand, its not worth the risk of knocking it off the stand though...I still had my brother hold the bike while torquing the nut off and on...

[trbig]

LOL.. See, I guess it's just a preference thing then. I move the basket around, not the motor, and the back tire on the ground helps with torqueing the clutch basket nut.

[JCHarth]

I was able to install the clutch yesterday. The parts on ebay worked. I used both ebc clutch disks and springs. Also made a bobber seat at home depot

http://www.joeharth.com/07012012835.jpg