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Sputter and cough while accel.

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  • #1

    Sputter and cough while accel.

    Let me ask this, if in moving the pick-up coil wires around while the bike is running and there is no stumble or uneven running then you still could have a problem with the wires? My 79sf was running great till I just put a auto cam chain tensioner on and now it sputters and has a loss of some power while accelerating. I can't believe that just installing the CCT would affect it like this. I moved the pickup coil wires around and nothing changed. Idled nice and smooth. Don't hear the cam chain now ether. Rev's up nice without a load on too. Sounds like pick-up coil wires to me. But is it?

    1979 XS1100 sf
    accel coils
    Kerker 4 into 1
    stock jets and air filter
    new fuse box blade type
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Unhook the vacuum line for the advance diaphragm from the #2 carb and plug the port and see if it changes
    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

    Comment

    • #3
      Will do and I'll report back tomorrow. Thanks.

      Comment

      • #4
        The bike ran great, yes? Then you changed the CCT and the bike's performance was adversely affected, right? So you think it's the pickup wires? Why?

        If your bike was fine, then you did the CCT swap and it misfires etc then I'd say its pretty certain that it's something to do with what you last did ie CCT swap.

        Just doing the swap (correctly) wouldn't cause the splutter etc but doing it incorrectly would. I'm wondering if your camchain has slipped a tooth when you did the CCT swapover. Others will correct me here if I'm wrong but I think the camchain can move one tooth out and not crash any valves. Am I correct, chaps?

        I think you should check your valve timing.
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by James England View Post
          ...Others will correct me here if I'm wrong but I think the camchain can move one tooth out and not crash any valves. Am I correct, chaps?..
          Yes, you can be one tooth off and not bang the valves, and it will run poorly. While you have that ignition cover off, pull the cam cover and make sure everything lines up.
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
            Yes, you can be one tooth off and not bang the valves, and it will run poorly. While you have that ignition cover off, pull the cam cover and make sure everything lines up.
            When fitting the auto CCT, the ratchet on it has to be released so the plunger extends BTW. Also the bike should be on the centre stand. And nothing in the engine must move whilst you do the swap. As Crazy Steve reiterated... check the valve timing. If it doesn't line up, report back here before going for it... it can be a bit tricky and if it jumps two teeth, you'll have bent valves. I would get the ignition rotor onto the T mark and then I'd take some photos of the camshafts, showing the position of the dots and post them here for comments. I say this because, when I did my swap, I checked the timing afterwards and found the dots didn't line up exactly....but in fact everything was fine.... it was the dots that were slightly off!

            You have to be very careful when doing camchain work. If you get the chain a couple of teeth out, it will be serious! Just take it steady and don't work on the bike if you're tired....
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

            Comment

            • #7
              I'm thinking we should have him check one thing at a time. Throwing a deluge of suggestions at once can be confusing.

              Just sayin'
              Greg

              Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

              ― Albert Einstein

              80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

              The list changes.

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by BA80 View Post
                I'm thinking we should have him check one thing at a time. Throwing a deluge of suggestions at once can be confusing.

                Just sayin'
                He will be checking them one at a time. He'll have a list to work through. And it shows that lots of people want to help.And the process of diagnosis.

                Let's ask Kevkat8.... do you want us to stop?
                Last edited by James England; 06-27-2012, 09:50 PM.
                XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                Comment

                • #9
                  STOP.....hell no.
                  I feels like pick-up wires cause that happened before to me. Same type of power loss and stutter but just not as dramatic this time. Had the bike on the centerstand when I replaced the cct. Attached it to the bike and inserted the tension spring and the retaining bolt and screwed it in. Started the bike and it started right up..good idle...revs fine in neutral. Take off and a little stutter under 3 grand if you give it too much gas, always had that. But before after 3 grand it would take off like a shot. Now it has a stutter and feels like some cylinders are not allways firing. All the headerd are hot.
                  Have not checked the plugs yet. I will later today after work. Work gets in the way of fun!
                  Thanks to all.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Well, I disconnected the vac line to #2 carb and pluged up the port. Started it up. Went for a short ride and it ran a bit better under 4 grand then above 4 grand the slight stutter started with a slight loss in power. No backfire just the slight stutter but enough to make it uncomfortable. I'm out to the garage to pull the cam cover and take a look.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by kevkat8 View Post
                      Well, I disconnected the vac line to #2 carb and pluged up the port. Started it up. Went for a short ride and it ran a bit better under 4 grand then above 4 grand the slight stutter started with a slight loss in power. No backfire just the slight stutter but enough to make it uncomfortable. I'm out to the garage to pull the cam cover and take a look.
                      Disconnecting the vac line deactivates the vacuum advance and this means it does not move round as the throttle is opened and therefore the pickup wires stay still. You're still getting the misfire, so I would say that pickup wires aren't the problem....
                      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        I had him unhook it so the wires wouldn't move James. If they don't move then they can't loose contact at the broken spot. The sputter above 4k may have something to do with the vac advance not working due to being diconnected.

                        I think since the problem changed with the vacuum disconnected I would say there's a very STRONG chance the pickup wires ARE the problem.

                        IMHO
                        Greg

                        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                        ― Albert Einstein

                        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                        The list changes.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Originally posted by BA80 View Post
                          I had him unhook it so the wires wouldn't move James. If they don't move then they can't loose contact at the broken spot. IMHO
                          Yes, I realise that. He said it only ran "a bit better" though under 4,000rpm.., not that it ran properly. As you say, the wires won't move and then can't lose contact at the broken spot... so I'd expect it to run perfectly at lower revs not just a "bit better"... see what I mean?

                          Really, for all it takes, I'd replace the wires anyway to remove any doubt whatsoever. It's a cheap and easy fix. Then he can remove it from his hitlist and move on tp the next one, eh? If required..
                          XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Got the valve/cam chain cover off and the ignition rotor onto the T mark. Now what am I looking for as far as an indicator that it is lined up correctly?
                            I'm sure I could look it up but you guys could tell me faster then I can hobble off to find my Clymer book.

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              http://s1160.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSCN0178.jpg

                              And:

                              http://s1160.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSCN0179.jpg

                              Hope these pics come out cause this is what I'm looking at.

                              Comment

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