Clutch slipping in 3rd

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jeff,

IF you're that close to Xsive Biker, then you can get him to help you PROPERLY adjust the clutch at the engine...you need to do that first. Then you can set the slack adjustment at the handlebar to your liking.

The oil in this case isn't your problem....if you had put in SYNTH, then it could have contributed. Also, even though 20/50 is the recommended range, it could actually contribute to some slippage being thicker.

The Springs wear out, get sprung, and then they just don't provide the needed tension to keep the frictions/steels together and allows them to slip under load. Since you just put in fresh oil, as mentioned you can change the springs with the bike on sidestand and not loose any/much oil when you pull the clutch crankcase cover off to access. There are good photos in the tech tips with the Extra Steel Plate tip....you don't need to do that, just pointing you to the photos.

When you do get around to doing another oil change, put in some Marvel Mystery oil, about 4-6 ounces, run the bike to normal temps, on the centerstand, run thru the gears and work the clutch a bit, just don't actually RIDE the bike or put any strong engine load. Then drain oil/filter and replace, this can help remove lots of varnish and gum on the parts.

You could be a bit more aggressive in your clutch work while you're replacing the springs if you want to...pull the basket, separate the plates and check for varnish/ and clean/scruff up the steels a bit before putting it all back together. JUST BE CAREFUL with the Starplate and the bolts....see the tech tip for info otherwise you might end up breaking the star plate.

T.C.

[Danny Crawdad]

After another day with new Barnett springs, I feel like I have a new bike. The additional lever pressure isn't too bad, and it adjusted up perfectly. I (personally) didn't bother opening up the basket, the spring job is a 30 minute job if you have the tools and parts laid out and know what you're doing, so I figured I could always go back in and address the frictions/steels if I needed to. I don't feel like I need to at this point.

[jjz28]

I am going to adjust it first. I dont think xsivebiker Greg really knows much about working on the bikes, i am pretty sure he has other people to do it. I work on all my stuff and I sure it would be easy enough. If adjusting it dont do it, i will get the springs. I was just wondering about the oil cause it never did it before, but it seems the longer i have the bike, the more i get on it hard.

[BA80]

Yeah, you probably just never noticed it until now. Order the Barnetts and put them in.

I have a suggestion for oil but I'll PM you with it since it seems to offend some people when I mention it.

[Danny Crawdad]

Definitely adjust it first, I tried to adjust mine about half a dozen times before I gave in. Mine were shot, noticeably shorter than the new Barnett springs side by side. These clutches are very easy to adjust and work on.

[jjz28]

thanks guys, and greg pm me that cause i am new to bikes and really would like to have a recommendation on oil but i know how that turns out, bout like what octane you run.

[BA80]

The 4T isn't at Wally World, you have to get it at OReilly's or AutoZone or some place like that.

As for fuel, mine runs best on plain ol' regular. I get a little bit of a rattle at WOT in 5th on the highway but I haven't noticed it at any other time. I tried premium but the bike ran crappy, mid was OK but so close to regular why spend the extra $?

[jjz28]

The 4T isn't at Wally World, you have to get it at OReilly's or AutoZone or some place like that.

As for fuel, mine runs best on plain ol' regular. I get a little bit of a rattle at WOT in 5th on the highway but I haven't noticed it at any other time. I tried premium but the bike ran crappy, mid was OK but so close to regular why spend the extra $?

I havent used anything but 93 yet but its a bullet, probably be even better with those clutch springs.

[BA80]

Run the overpriced stuff out and try some regular. You'll notice the difference.

[KA1J]

Autozone had & may still have Castrol 4T for 2.99/quart as of last Thursday. I bought two cases of it.

[BA80]

I'll check them out tomorrow. There's one 1/2 mile from where I work.

[cywelchjr]

Could the oil cause it? I just got back from a ride with xsivebiker and his brother in law steve and it slipped in 4th under a lot of power to pass. I dont think it did this before i changed the oil. It slipped a little when i first started riding it but quit and it had sat for years. I think the oil is causing it, or maybe the clutch is coming unadjusted. I runs good and has good power until you really hammer it.

Unless the weather is really cold you should be running 20w40 oil at a minimum in these engines per the manual. The thinner oil at higher temps CAN cause slipping sometimes and if you changed the oil and it started slipping it an easy thing to try to fix the problem with.

[jjz28]

Well, i had 20w/50 and then read the tech tips where it say it may cause harder starting in colder weather so I took it and traded it and got the 10w/40. I am going to change the oil again to the castrol that greg recommended and adjust the clutch but i am going to go ahead and order the springs and put them in when they get here.

[ViperRon]

How long has your bike sat in the past? This may or may not be a problem but mine set appart for like 10 years and first riding it it worked fine then started having problems. When I dissasembled the basket I found rust build up on the metal plates was breaking loose and causing slippage. I dissasembled basket cleaned off rust slightly ruffed up plates. Clutch workes better now but slill slips in 3rd and 4th at times in full power so I'll be getting new springs. My point is you may want to dissasemble and check the basket when you put in new springs.

[jjz28]

Last inspection stick was 97. so, i would say at least 10 years.