Fork Question

[bikerphil]

If you installed the seals already, I wouldn't worry about the spacers below the seals. I have installed them many times without them. Just make a suitable spacer to go on top of the seal in between the snap ring and the seal if there is a gap. I've made them out of PVC pipe (1 1/2" IIRC) before. If you can machine a metal one, even better yet.

Edit: I don't recall you saying if you are working on Special or Standard forks. The Special forks original factory seal has a thin spacer below the seal that usually can't be saved when removing the old seal. On the Special forks I usually install the seal without a spacer below and just add what is needed on top of the seal.

[Toolmaker Tim]

Special Forks

Thanks Phil, that thin metal spacer is the one I am talking about. On that note we press on. I'll make up a spacer to take up the gap top and bottom an install it before I put the seals in.

[Toolmaker Tim]

Next Stupid Question

Right now I am attempting to install my new fork seals. Biggest problem is getting them to go in straight. Any handy dandy tools I can make to help make this go easier?

[bikerphil]

You can try a large socket if you have one. I made a fork seal driver out of a PVC coupling. IIRC, I had to grind a little off to make it slightly smaller OD than the seal.

[Toolmaker Tim]

Why didn't I think of that?

Thank you Phil. I think the heat is starting to get to me. When someone tells you the obvious you want to bang your head on a garage stud.

[bikerphil]

I think the heat is starting to get to me

Lol, I know what you mean brother, it hasn't even started down here yet.

Another thing I should mention, after you install the seals and are ready to slide the stanchions back in, be careful of the lower stanchion bushing, it has a sharp edge on it that can slice/damage the seal. I have found this out the hard way. A good trick is to cut a piece of thin plastic soda bottle, wrap it around the bushing, slide the bushing past the seal, then pull it out.

[crazy steve]

I install the seals after the inner fork tube is in (a habit I picked up doing my Harley forks; those have to be done that way) and found that helps a lot for keeping the seal square. Like Phil, I use a PVC/coupling combo to drive the seal in....

[bikerphil]

Steve, I've never installed the seal after installing the stanchion on the XS forks, I guess you could do it that way though, you would need a long piece of pipe. The PVC coupler I was referring to is just a short piece of the correct diameter. The Harley forks must be like the FJ where the seal does go in last.

[bikerphil]

Clymers page 212 and FSM chapter 5-13 both state that the oil seal is to be installed first, then the damper rod and stanchion tube.

[Toolmaker Tim]

Both Methods

I see advantages to both methods. If you put the seal in first you can visually see the seal is seated all the way down. The other way the fork tube keeps the seal aligned so it can't get caught in the snap ring groove and tip. I've cooled off some so now the brain has an idea. maybe be a tool that has the diameter of the tube that could engage the bushing at the top of the shoulder and align things and also has a shoulder to drive the seal in. You still would have to protect the seal while inserting the tube if it was an issue. Just want to get these damn seals in without messing things up.

[DGXSER]

Tim, I very shortly ago did this same project. Did a brief write up on it for Special forks anyway. I used a socket to drive mine in. I actually wound up doing both twice, due to the stantion bushing that Phil referred to tearing up the lip on the seal. I used his tip of the plastic wrap the second time, with good results.

[crazy steve]

...you would need a long piece of pipe. The PVC coupler I was referring to is just a short piece of the correct diameter. The Harley forks must be like the FJ where the seal does go in last.

I use a 2' chunk of 1.5" schedule 40 to drive the seals. I install the damper/inner tube, then with the inner tube collapsed just slide the seal over and drive it in. I then finish assembling the forks. Works great...

If we believed the FSM all the time, we'd still be splitting the cases to do the second gear fix...

[Rasputin]

I set the seals in with a slight application of the right stuff or similar sealant on the outside of the seals. After giving the seals a quick lube with some fork oil I slide the tubes in. I have never in 30 ought years and a lot of bikes have had a stanchion tube ruin a seal. While I am not saying it can not happen I will say that if the job is being done correctly it will not happen.
Most often I simply use a wooden piece of wood or dowel and tap it in gently. No big deal at all. If I am working on air forks I install the caps and add pressure before installing the forks. That seats the seal into place before the right stuff or other sealant applied to the outer surface takes hold.
I have yet to have a fork seal replacement leak after doing it this way including the infamous leak-proof seals.
A quick wipe down of the forks after installation takes care of any oil on the forks after installation. This is quite simply one of the easiest and most goof proof repairs on these bikes.

[Toolmaker Tim]

Fork Tubes

The bushings at the bottom of the fork tubes have abrasions that have the plastic/teflon coating roughed up. Is this going to be an issue and if so can I use the fork tubes from my spare set of standard forks to replace them while using the guts and sliders from my special tubes?

[bikerphil]

The bushings at the bottom of the fork tubes have abrasions that have the plastic/teflon coating roughed up. Is this going to be an issue and if so can I use the fork tubes from my spare set of standard forks to replace them while using the guts and sliders from my special tubes?

No, a little of wear on the teflon is normal and I wouldn't worry about it. Your Standard forks won't have that bushing anyway, those forks are set up differently.