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Originally posted by BA80
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???? A gallon of Castrol GTX 20w50 is about $14 at Wally World too.
I fail to see how paying a couple extra bucks for the recommended type is unnecessary.
Having a bad morning Tod?
I fail to see how paying a couple extra bucks for the recommended type is unnecessary.
Having a bad morning Tod?
I pay anywhere from 12-15 bucks at Wally World for 5 quarts... though occasionally, I've had to pay 18 in a pinch... but I can find the regular Castrol at dang near any hole in the wall country store or place that sells oil. Take that times 4, and soon to be 5, bikes on the road with wet clutches, and you'll see that it's not just a couple bucks. But... my question to you.. is if something even just a couple bucks cheaper works just as well, why would YOU spend the extra money? What about cereal for your kids? Do you get the store brand stuff that's just as good, or do you buy the namebrand stuff? It's just a coupe bucks difference, right?
As probably hundreds or more can attest on here alone, with hundreds of thousands of miles travelled, the "Motorcycle specific" oils are unnecessary, more expensive, and harder to find if you need a quart on the road. I don't like to carry extra oil with me since I've had partial quarts leak in my bags before. I would also highly doubt that they made that Castrol you run specifically for 30+ year old friction plates, just a general wet clutch use in which they're talking about modern friction discs. So no, it's not going to be the single "Recommended type" for our bikes. As long as it doesn't have the friction modifiers and has some zinc in it, it's the recommended type. If you like the more expensive motorcycle specific oils, that's your choice. If you think the extra money is worth it, that's also your choice, but I have pulled a few of these motors and clutches apart and seen that the cheaper, regular, non-motorcycle specific oils work just fine and have never had a clutch slippage since changing to the better springs.
Thus, I stand by the statement of unnecessary, more expensive products. Not having a bad morning, or afternoon, just tired of every.....single.....time.... hearing you trying to sell everyone on this unnecessary oil. It's like you work for them or own stock in the company? Just asking to ease up a bit on the sales pitch is all.
Anyway, sorry about hijacking the thread. Back to the regularly scheduled topic.
Before you buy a set of feeler gauges to do the valve check, look at the specs of how thin the gaps you need to measure are. Your regular Chinese made off-the-wall $3 feeler gauges from Walmart probably aren't going to work. I had to finally look at a couple auto parts stores to find a set that would measure as thin as the intake needed.
I took out all 3 that I ground to fit and am replacing with the right thing. I only put on 5 miles with the bad ones in.I hope I did not do any irreversible damage.
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