electrical problems???

[crazy steve]

You need to look for the specific values; this will tell you if there's a problem. If you do have damaged windings on the stator (bare wire showing/in contact with the cover), you'll likely have to replace it. Do check for resistance to ground, if any of the wires reads to ground that's a big problem.

XJ alternators can be hard to find.... here's hoping the stator is good...

[XJfan1]

There is a guy it town that collects vintage jap bikes. He has two xs11 parts bikes. Will one of those stators work?

[CaptonZap]

There is a guy it town that collects vintage jap bikes. He has two xs11 parts bikes. Will one of those stators work?

The XJ and XS used a different style of alternator. Parts will not interchange. CZ

[crazy steve]

The XJ and XS used a different style of alternator. Parts will not interchange. CZ

Well, that's not completely true; it is true that individual parts can't be swapped between alternator types, but you can swap the complete assembly (stator, rotor, cover, regulator). One advantage to doing so is the XS alternator doesn't use brushes so there's no wearing parts. The XS unit does have slightly lower output however (20 amps vs 22 amps).

The harness wiring is the same for both types, so no rewiring needed.

[XJfan1]

Well my problem lies with the pulse coil. I think the brushes are wore out. I have continuity from the plug to the brush tip but nothing when its all assembled. I'm going to clean it real well and pickup some brushes. There are two different part numbers because of the way the mount to the assembly the brush holders are different and only fit one way.thanks for the info and help with the trouble shooting.

[XJfan1]

i got the new brushes and still the same deal. i got to digging more and found the rotor was bad. i took it off and sure enough a broken wire. after about a hour of fiddeling around i got the rotor all apart and fixed the broken wire. i had to cut off about two feet of wire and run the end back through the paper insulating plate and soldier it back to he slipway terminal. i lined everything back up and added layers of a two part epoxy as everything went back together. i then used a large socket over the slipring hub and squeezed it back together adding a bunch more epoxy all the way around the wire spool to keep everything in place. once it dried i added more epoxy and sealed all the cracks in the glue and made a nice clear layer over the whole center of the winding overlaping onto the steel outer frame. hopefully it will work. its not a cheap part to buy. if the fix dont work it was worth a try im not out anything but some epoxy. i did find a easy way to remove the rotor without the special tool. i used a brass drift and a hammer one the back part of the rotor as if trying to unscrew it off the crank. being a friction fit on a beveled shaft it poped right off with no damage to the rotor.

[CaptonZap]

i got the new brushes and still the same deal. i got to digging more and found the rotor was bad. i took it off and sure enough a broken wire. after about a hour of fiddeling around i got the rotor all apart and fixed the broken wire. i had to cut off about two feet of wire and run the end back through the paper insulating plate and soldier it back to he slipway terminal. i lined everything back up and added layers of a two part epoxy as everything went back together. i then used a large socket over the slipring hub and squeezed it back together adding a bunch more epoxy all the way around the wire spool to keep everything in place. once it dried i added more epoxy and sealed all the cracks in the glue and made a nice clear layer over the whole center of the winding overlaping onto the steel outer frame. hopefully it will work. its not a cheap part to buy. if the fix dont work it was worth a try im not out anything but some epoxy..

Way to go! Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Just for the "monkey see, monkey do" crowd, you might mention that you did not use a metal filled epoxy, (JB Weld, et al) to pot the wires in. CZ