Ok so I have another battle as do some other 79 xs1100 special owner do for one withe the octy does anyone know the exact fuel line measurements as my xs lines were kinked when I got it so I have no clue and another is if I want to delete the octy how do I do that and what steps do I take meaning what hose to where etc. Etc.
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fuel line length (octy)
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Lot's of opinions-dump the octy
Simple way: run a fuel line between the 2 front petcock outlets & cap the vacuum source for the octy.Run 2 gas lines to carbs from rear petcock outlets.. You're done.( you can also add filters in gas lines).
BUT< YOU MUST REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF GAS AT PETCOCKS WHEN PARKED! Really, not so hard & most have to do it even with the octy because half of em don't work right anyway.Tom Clisham
Age is relative YOU WON"T GET OLD TIL YOU SELL THE BIKE
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'78xs1100E ,all stock & original GONE TO WISCONSIN
'80 SG Vetter fairing,hard bags,trunk,fork brace,
stock headers with fishtail mufflers,black & beautiful GONE TO ARIZONA
79SF lowered,jardine 4/2 exhaust,pod filters,drilled rotors,fork brace, bar hopper
79SF 1 owner,8000 miles, restoring to completely original ( I hope) GONE TO FRANCE
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If you eliminate the octy, you might want to do this....http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35443Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
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'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
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Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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I guess I'll also chime in and say just ditch the octy and get used to turning the petcocks off. It's just habit after a few times, and you'll know real quick when you didn't turn them on . Eliminates a lot of worry about fuel issues, if it's flowing it's flowing.
I just ran both fuel outlets on each side to a T into a fuel filter, into the opposite carb bank, though I'm going to do the mod steve posted above the next time I pull the petcocks out (I need to replace the fiber washers some time). I used yellow Tygon, and if you get the right size you don't need clamps or anything (or at least, mine have held up for over a year).Last edited by Danny Crawdad; 04-14-2012, 08:55 PM.XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT
Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.
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Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View PostI guess I'll also chime in and say just ditch the octy and get used to turning the petcocks off. It's just habit after a few times, and you'll know real quick when you didn't turn them on . Eliminates a lot of worry about fuel issues, if it's flowing it's flowing.
I just ran both fuel outlets on each side to a T into a fuel filter, into the opposite carb bank, though I'm going to do the mod steve posted above the next time I pull the petcocks out (I need to replace the fiber washers some time). I used yellow Tygon, and if you get the right size you don't need clamps or anything (or at least, mine have held up for over a year).Joab
"If nothing else, it will be interesting..."
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1979 XS1100SF
1972 XS2 650
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Ozark, Alabama
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I've given up on buying most things locally, I got it from Amazon. The fuel-resistant stuff is Tygon F-4040-A Fuel And Lubricant Tubing, and the size to make it fit on the fuel barbs without needing clamps is 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Wall".
I bought 25' for around $25 a year ago, but evidently prices have gone up. Here's 10' for $22.45 and free shipping. You may be able to find it cheaper somewhere else, though, a lot of places online carry it.
It can be a cast iron bitch to wiggle on, but it won't come off, is very flexible, heat-resistant, doesn't crack and split, and looks cool. Which is important when it comes to fuel line.
Edit: This may be too much info, but I used Astroglide to help slip the line on last time and it worked well :P.Last edited by Danny Crawdad; 04-14-2012, 09:12 PM.XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT
Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.
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Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View PostI've given up on buying most things locally, I got it from Amazon. The fuel-resistant stuff is Tygon F-4040-A Fuel And Lubricant Tubing, and the size to make it fit on the fuel barbs without needing clamps is 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Wall".
I bought 25' for around $25 a year ago, but evidently prices have gone up. Here's 10' for $22.45 and free shipping. You may be able to find it cheaper somewhere else, though, a lot of places online carry it.
It can be a cast iron bitch to wiggle on, but it won't come off, is very flexible, heat-resistant, doesn't crack and split, and looks cool. Which is important when it comes to fuel line.
Edit: This may be too much info, but I used Astroglide to help slip the line on last time and it worked well :P.Joab
"If nothing else, it will be interesting..."
______________________________________________
1979 XS1100SF
1972 XS2 650
______________________________________________
Ozark, Alabama
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Ok so can I run a short line from each petcock valve (prime and on) on the same side connect them to a T then run the base of the T to 2carbs will that work. And do the same on the other side? Also so my vacum advance line goes where again? ( the one that was originally connected to the octy)
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If you ditch the octy, then the vac line that went to it should get capped off.
Just like the other 3 caps on the the other 3 carb boots.
So the only vac line should be from th vac advance to #2 carb body.
Just a suggestion, you could add an inline fuel filter(s) to that setup and it'll help keep those carbs clean.Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!
80G (Green paint(PO idea))
The Green Monster
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Hugo
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Ok so can I run a short line from each petcock valve (prime and on) on the same side connect them to a T then run the base of the T to 2carbs will that work. And do the same on the other side? Also so my vacum advance line goes where again? ( the one that was originally connected to the octy)
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