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fuel line length (octy)

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  • fuel line length (octy)

    Ok so I have another battle as do some other 79 xs1100 special owner do for one withe the octy does anyone know the exact fuel line measurements as my xs lines were kinked when I got it so I have no clue and another is if I want to delete the octy how do I do that and what steps do I take meaning what hose to where etc. Etc.

  • #2
    Lot's of opinions-dump the octy

    Simple way: run a fuel line between the 2 front petcock outlets & cap the vacuum source for the octy.Run 2 gas lines to carbs from rear petcock outlets.. You're done.( you can also add filters in gas lines).
    BUT< YOU MUST REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF GAS AT PETCOCKS WHEN PARKED! Really, not so hard & most have to do it even with the octy because half of em don't work right anyway.
    Tom Clisham

    Age is relative YOU WON"T GET OLD TIL YOU SELL THE BIKE
    _____________________________________________

    '78xs1100E ,all stock & original GONE TO WISCONSIN

    '80 SG Vetter fairing,hard bags,trunk,fork brace,
    stock headers with fishtail mufflers,black & beautiful GONE TO ARIZONA

    79SF lowered,jardine 4/2 exhaust,pod filters,drilled rotors,fork brace, bar hopper

    79SF 1 owner,8000 miles, restoring to completely original ( I hope) GONE TO FRANCE

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    • #3
      If you eliminate the octy, you might want to do this....http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35443
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
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      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

      Comment


      • #4
        I guess I'll also chime in and say just ditch the octy and get used to turning the petcocks off. It's just habit after a few times, and you'll know real quick when you didn't turn them on . Eliminates a lot of worry about fuel issues, if it's flowing it's flowing.

        I just ran both fuel outlets on each side to a T into a fuel filter, into the opposite carb bank, though I'm going to do the mod steve posted above the next time I pull the petcocks out (I need to replace the fiber washers some time). I used yellow Tygon, and if you get the right size you don't need clamps or anything (or at least, mine have held up for over a year).
        Last edited by Danny Crawdad; 04-14-2012, 08:55 PM.
        XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

        Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View Post
          I guess I'll also chime in and say just ditch the octy and get used to turning the petcocks off. It's just habit after a few times, and you'll know real quick when you didn't turn them on . Eliminates a lot of worry about fuel issues, if it's flowing it's flowing.

          I just ran both fuel outlets on each side to a T into a fuel filter, into the opposite carb bank, though I'm going to do the mod steve posted above the next time I pull the petcocks out (I need to replace the fiber washers some time). I used yellow Tygon, and if you get the right size you don't need clamps or anything (or at least, mine have held up for over a year).
          Where did you get that high speed Tygon stuff at? My local stores don't seem to carry it.
          Joab

          "If nothing else, it will be interesting..."
          ______________________________________________
          1979 XS1100SF
          1972 XS2 650
          ______________________________________________
          Ozark, Alabama

          Comment


          • #6
            I've given up on buying most things locally, I got it from Amazon. The fuel-resistant stuff is Tygon F-4040-A Fuel And Lubricant Tubing, and the size to make it fit on the fuel barbs without needing clamps is 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Wall".

            I bought 25' for around $25 a year ago, but evidently prices have gone up. Here's 10' for $22.45 and free shipping. You may be able to find it cheaper somewhere else, though, a lot of places online carry it.

            It can be a cast iron bitch to wiggle on, but it won't come off, is very flexible, heat-resistant, doesn't crack and split, and looks cool. Which is important when it comes to fuel line.

            Edit: This may be too much info, but I used Astroglide to help slip the line on last time and it worked well :P.
            Last edited by Danny Crawdad; 04-14-2012, 09:12 PM.
            XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

            Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View Post
              I've given up on buying most things locally, I got it from Amazon. The fuel-resistant stuff is Tygon F-4040-A Fuel And Lubricant Tubing, and the size to make it fit on the fuel barbs without needing clamps is 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Wall".

              I bought 25' for around $25 a year ago, but evidently prices have gone up. Here's 10' for $22.45 and free shipping. You may be able to find it cheaper somewhere else, though, a lot of places online carry it.

              It can be a cast iron bitch to wiggle on, but it won't come off, is very flexible, heat-resistant, doesn't crack and split, and looks cool. Which is important when it comes to fuel line.

              Edit: This may be too much info, but I used Astroglide to help slip the line on last time and it worked well :P.
              You know, I was going to ask if you wanted to join our super secret club on Facebook, but after that last line, I am not so sure:P
              Joab

              "If nothing else, it will be interesting..."
              ______________________________________________
              1979 XS1100SF
              1972 XS2 650
              ______________________________________________
              Ozark, Alabama

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey, I just use the tools I have available
                XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

                Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View Post
                  Hey, I just use the tools I have available
                  NOT HELPING
                  Joab

                  "If nothing else, it will be interesting..."
                  ______________________________________________
                  1979 XS1100SF
                  1972 XS2 650
                  ______________________________________________
                  Ozark, Alabama

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ok so can I run a short line from each petcock valve (prime and on) on the same side connect them to a T then run the base of the T to 2carbs will that work. And do the same on the other side? Also so my vacum advance line goes where again? ( the one that was originally connected to the octy)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If you ditch the octy, then the vac line that went to it should get capped off.
                      Just like the other 3 caps on the the other 3 carb boots.
                      So the only vac line should be from th vac advance to #2 carb body.

                      Just a suggestion, you could add an inline fuel filter(s) to that setup and it'll help keep those carbs clean.
                      Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

                      80G (Green paint(PO idea))
                      The Green Monster
                      K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
                      Got him in '04.
                      bald tire & borrowing parts

                      80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
                      Scarlet
                      K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
                      Got her in '11
                      Ready for the twisties!

                      81H (previously CPMaynard's)
                      Hugo
                      Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
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                      • #12
                        Ok so can I run a short line from each petcock valve (prime and on) on the same side connect them to a T then run the base of the T to 2carbs will that work. And do the same on the other side? Also so my vacum advance line goes where again? ( the one that was originally connected to the octy)

                        Comment

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