primer question

[GARTHXS]

So I'm going to sand blast my tank what kind of primer should I use since I won't be able to paint the tank right away . And I don't want it to rust.

[crazy steve]

If you're just looking for a rattle-can primer, I've had very good luck with the Rustoelum primers...

[DAVINCI]

for bare metals, look for the words 'self-etching' on the can

[motoman]

+1 what Davinci stated.......which is the ONLY correct primer to use on bare metal before color anyways........BTW, seems east of the Rockies, you guys are stuck on that Rustoleum crap, or maybe cause of stricter EPA regulations that's all you can get........

[natemoen]

for bare metals, look for the words 'self-etching' on the can

+1 That is correct.

[crazy steve]

[QUOTE=motoman;365830........BTW, seems east of the Rockies, you guys are stuck on that Rustoleum crap, or maybe cause of stricter EPA regulations that's all you can get........[/QUOTE]

I like it because it's the only primer I've found that isn't porous; if a primered part is going to sit for a while (which is what he's asking about), it's the only one I've found that won't have rusting issues...

[GARTHXS]

Thx guys sounds good

[WSL91]

So I'm going to sand blast my tank what kind of primer should I use since I won't be able to paint the tank right away . And I don't want it to rust.

2 part epoxy automotive. Its bulletproof

[hamjam]

2 part epoxy automotive. Its bulletproof

in that case WSP (Winchester Small Pistol)

[GARTHXS]

Well I took the yank down to the shop and blasted it . Man there a are lots of books and crannies . And laid down a coat of rustoleum primer . Just nned to buy some more supplies

[CatatonicBug]

2 part epoxy automotive. Its bulletproof

This brings up a question I was hoping to have answered by this thread. Is it OK to use "cheap" rattlecan primer under a nicer, 2-part finish? Don't you need to have a primer that is compatible with or similar in structure to the paint layer?

[crazy steve]

This brings up a question I was hoping to have answered by this thread. Is it OK to use "cheap" rattlecan primer under a nicer, 2-part finish? Don't you need to have a primer that is compatible with or similar in structure to the paint layer?

Heh heh... that will depend on who you talk to.... The pros and the paint manufacturers will all tell you yes, the primer should 'match' the top coat. And it probably is the best way to do it. But I've had good luck with good (not the really cheap crap) rattle-can primer under quality 2-part paints, and I know other people who have too. One 'mistake' I see done time and again is sanding the primer with too-fine paper. Guys will wet-sand with up to 600 grit paper then apply the finish coat. Not good; the primer is too smooth, so smooth that the color coat doesn't have any 'tooth' to grip so it will chip/peel easily; BTDT. You shouldn't use anything finer than 320 on your primer, and 220 would be better; best is don't sand it at all. You'll need to put a bit more color-coat on to 'fill' the scratches left by the paper, but the paint will grip much better. If you're planning on color-sanding the final paint, that will take out any scratches that may be left...

I'm sure some will disagree, but that's worked for me....

[GARTHXS]

so as I posted before , I sand blasted the tank and put a coat of primer on it . today I slapped some bondo on and filled the badge divots then another coat of primer!! still needs some sanding and a couple of small holidays filled but all in all pretty good .

sand blasted


one coat





and almost final coat of primer the holidays and small indent is barely noticeable . but it needs another fill and skim.


but im done for today.

[planedick]

What?

You have a spray booth?

[GARTHXS]

I have access to a legal booth, right here http://www.makerplace.com/
nice to hear from you Dick . havent been in touch in a while!