kinda stuck valve...

[skids]

It's SUPPOSED to rotate.

Yeh that is right, but I thought there was some question about the bucket binding (obviously not). There are actually two springs in there right? Maybe a broken spring piece could cause binding, but my bet is on a slightly bent valve shank. Valves are surprisingly easy to bend.

[BA80]

Gotta get that bucket outa there to see. Hopefully it's just a bent bucket or a spring. If it's a valve the head will have to come off.

[ViperRon]

Yes there is a small amount of rotation built into the mechanics that allows the valve to mate in a different spot on the seat each fire cycle it helps keep wear even on valve and seat. If the valve does not rotate the the heat cycle remains on the same surface of the valve and seat which can create warpage and by rotating it also evens both surfaces. It also keeps the valve stem wear and guide wear somewhat even.

If the valve is bent the head will need to be removed and if the spring is messed up ???? One about as bad as the other as far as removal. I hope its a bent stuck or trash hanging bucket.

Another way to get the bucket out is to get a good suction cup like the type that hold stuff on the wall or glass that will fit into the bucket. Clean the bucket out get a good tight grip and jerk it out.

[motoman]

Yes there is a small amount of rotation built into the mechanics that allows the valve to mate in a different spot on the seat each fire cycle it helps keep wear even on valve and seat.

Convex in configuration just like an automotive lifter. Has more to do with not 'flattening' a cam lobe by being convex Viper. No different here. A worn flat or concave lifter WILL trash a cam lobe in a heartbeat. Convex allows the rotation off the cam lobes.

[Jeff Pattee]

box

diddo...lucky had it right, try it.....u do NOT have a bent valve, and there is a 95% chance that there is nothing wrong AT ALL....ie: u said it is a little bit harder to turn than the others......don't worry so much

[Jeff Pattee]

redundancy

I repeat..................IT IS NOT a bent valve or stem, it is just a cam follower that has a mind of it's own. Start from the beginning,....he had no gap when he was doing the tune-up..........If he had ...........well....won't go on...pretty simple..............

[DGXSER]

I repeat..................IT IS NOT a bent valve or stem, it is just a cam follower that has a mind of it's own. Start from the beginning,....he had no gap when he was doing the tune-up..........If he had ...........well....won't go on...pretty simple..............

One thing I have learned over the years of belonging to this site, is never to be so certain anyone else is wrong. You only have the information this member is giving you, which is his interpretation of what he is experiencing, and can easily be missing a tell tale sign the member just did not recognize. Or even missing information they did not notice or just plain did not feel important to mention....yet.

We are diagnosing engine and electrical issues from a keyboard sometimes half a world away. Unless it will damage the bike in some way, no idea or check is a bad one. Maybe it is not a bent valve, but I can attest to the fact that some of the folks who are advising it could be really know their crap about this bike.

It seems your suggesting to just reshim the valve, button it up, and ignore this issue. to quote a good friend of mine "The only problem I ever had go away by ignoring it was my ex-wife".

[mack]

If it was me

I'd get that bucket out of there and look very closely for gauling on the bucket and the valve guide passage. I always hand polish both when doing my heads, this allows me to look (feel) for burs and such. They are so closely machined that anything in between is not a good thing. I have a magnet to remove mine but on occation , one will get stuck going in or coming out. I've had great luck in this instance with the small suction cup end of the valve lapping tool. If it looks dry in there when you do get it out, the feeding gallery is probably plugged. The LH I just finished had this problem in several areas. Once the head is off they are easily cleaned out with 22 cal. cleaning kit and compressed air.

[Jeff Pattee]

yep

You are correct dgxsr, I was way out of line........I hope that shockman gives us an update.

[Shockman54]

ok guys, tried all different methods (except drilling) that you suggested to get the bucket out. none of them worked, so i decided to stop messing around and bust out the JB weld. used a bent coat hanger as a handle, and welded those 2 together. i'll let you know how it works tomorrow when it cures.

[natemoen]

ok guys, tried all different methods (except drilling) that you suggested to get the bucket out. none of them worked, so i decided to stop messing around and bust out the JB weld. used a bent coat hanger as a handle, and welded those 2 together. i'll let you know how it works tomorrow when it cures.

Have you tried tapping it in with a hammer at all? If it is cocked sideways that might straighten it out.

[Shockman54]

@natemoen
yes, i tried that, and it would move up or down a little bit. still didn't come out or move any easier. i just want to get the bucket out once and for all so i can keep working on the engine.

[Shockman54]

assuming the worst...

ok, if the passage for the bucket is scratched really badly, what do i need to do then? and if i can't recover it, can i use the head off of my 81 special?

[DGXSER]

As to the pocket, you can try honig it with a brake hone or similar to see if it will polish out, then check the hole diameter and such for clearance to the bucket. Don't want to much slop or the bucket will get titled and jam again.

The 81 head has different size intake valves. So you need to keep the cams with the head. IIRC the 80-81 also had different shaped pistons for the different sized combustion chambers. I do not recall if there is an issue with the old pistons and the new head though. Never had to mess with that yet myself and its been a year or so since this was discussed last that I recall.

[mack]

Looking at

your picture close up, I see at the 2 o clock position of the offending bucket some scrapes or scratch marks. Did these happen before or after you installed the bucket. The reason I ask is that if any pieces of metal went in between the bucket and passage it could cause the binding. I'm curious as to why that bucket is sitting about 1/8 inch lower than the rest. Did you put a boroscope inside the plug hole and see if the exhaust valve is open the same amount. It would have to be i'd think if everything is installed correctly. If thats the case it must be jammed pretty bad to compress those springs. If you pull the head perhaps you may have more luck working from the other side. If you can get it to move that 1/8 inch, may be all you need to free it up. May lose the valve but hell it's no good to you as it is now.