need some electrical advice

[Nightengale]

i am working on getting the wiring all straight on my project, but i havent done much wiring before. i can read and understand the wiring diagrams, and i know that all connections should be soldered together. what type of solder should i use, and what things can be taken off the wiring harness that would not effect the motorcycles performance. i know that there are some forms here that talk about what can be taken off but i cant seem to find it. thanks in advance for all the help.

[cywelchjr]

Actually soldering on vehicle wiring is generally a bad idea, and is one of the reasons why auto and bike manufacturers don't do that (it's not just cost) because every solder joint creates a weak point right next to the solder joint, which is a likely point of failure. This can be combated by a strain relief or fastening the wiring so it can't move in some way, but this means that you need to have a way of fastening the wires on BOTH sides of each solder joint. It's better to use good quality double crimp connectors (not the crap stuff that auto parts stores sell). However, given a choice between the crimp connectors that auto stores sell and soldering, go with soldering, it will be more reliable.

[DGXSER]

As for solder, I use 60/40 rosin core. And yes, there is bound to be some debate over soldering versus crimp connectors and such. (and as I post this I see Cy proves I was correct. )

As for the minimum wires, try searching for chopper and wiring diagram. There are a couple that folks have wittled down to the absolute minimum to get the bike to run, some may even have eliminated the turn signals, not sure.

[b.walker5]

DO NOT SOLDER joints on any automotive wiring. Theres a reason why its not done at a factory level, and it's not just cost cutting. In an overload situation the solder can get hot enough to melt, and sometimes long before any fuse blows. Heating copper, i.e wire, anneals it and any movement after annealing work hardens it, which is why, as Cy points out, joints often break and fail immediately after the solder point. CRIMP YOUR JOINTS.

And if anyone doubts the statement about the fuse, take a standard wire fuse of any rating and introduce an increasing load. I guarantee you it will not blow at its rated current, and will take around 1.5 times the rated current before it melts. i.e. a 30 amp fuse will carry around 45 amps before melting. Circuit Breakers are different, they are considered 'close current protection' and will trip very close to their rated current, but the wire type fuses, and even the Atco blade type, are considered 'coarse current protection' and will hang in there for a suprisingly, and sometimes dangerously, long time.

[crazy steve]

Everything you want to know about solder vs crimping.....
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ghlight=solder

[b.walker5]

In regard to that old thread, i am fully aware that back on '09 i had a different view, but trust me, i have seen the error of my ways.

Even old dogs can learn new tricks.

[ViperRon]

I agree totally with what others here have said about soldering but also there is another issue. Solder conectors are designed different from crimp connectors and you are likely to do more damage to the connection soldering them. It also takes experience and good equipment to do a good soldering job even the best of us here I am sure have had their bad days where they just could not get a good solder joint.

[Nightengale]

connectors???

after reading the solder vs. connectors, and going with the majority i believe that i will use connectors. what type of connectors should i use, and where could i get them. this is why i love this site everyone is always glad to help out their fellow biker.

[crazy steve]

You can use the common 'parts house' crimp connectors, just cut the plastic sleeves off. You can buy uninsulated ones, but you'll have to hunt for them and probably buy a minimum of a hundred.

The real key to a good joint is a quality crimp tool that fits the metal sleeve tightly, put the 'indent' on the solid side of the sleeve, then put shrink tube over the finished joint with at least a 1/4" overlap onto the wire on each side. There's a link in the thread I linked to for one brand, there's others out there made by Klein and T&B among others. Try an electrical wholesale house if you don't have any luck elsewhere finding one. About $30...

[bikerphil]

I've seen the guys at American Chopper solder their custom wiring harnesses so it's gotta be legit.

[TomB]

+1 on the crimping, don't solder.

Basic wiring diagrams here Clicky

Two diagrams, one has Standard clocks so more wires, the other has a single speedo no tacho or idiot lights.

[TomB]

Connectors.

I do a bit of wiring for lads building custom bikes and use the correct Japanese style crimp connectors, they're easy and neat and work much better that the electricians style plastic insulator type.

They're over here (UK) but I'm sure you'll be able to source them over your side and have shown these as an example, my suppliers are Vehicle wiring products

At the top of this page are the correct Japanese connectors and insulators.

And terminal blocks at the top of this page

[Nightengale]

I've seen the guys at American Chopper solder their custom wiring harnesses so it's gotta be legit.

thats funny

[b.walker5]

I do a bit of wiring for lads building custom bikes and use the correct Japanese style crimp connectors, they're easy and neat and work much better that the electricians style plastic insulator type.

Not all us us electricians use those crap plastic squash type connectors Tom. Personally I loath them and avoid them like the plague. My preference is this type of tool



with this type of connector.



They come in all styles, from the spade shown, to eyes, bullets, joiners etc. Will fit most Molex style connector blocks, and the crimps are very strong, holding both the wire and the insulation.

For the more industrial type crimp, i.e. bigger wires, I use these



with these

[TomB]

Not all us us electricians use those crap plastic squash type connectors Tom.

They do where I work ......I think in a factory site environment they are OK, I wasn't having a moan at them just trying to show the Japanese style connectors which are far better for our bikes.

Any chance you link to your suppliers in the US for Nightengale


Nightengale, you asked what electrical could be removed from the bike, the basic wiring diagrams I have done (and linked to) show what is required for basic electrics chop to run. The chop diagram has twin headlights coz the customer asked for them, I advised against running twin 55/60W bulbs, simply remove them from the diagram.