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  • Trouble with front wheel bearing...

    After finishing the bearings and seals in the rear tire I went ahead and started on the front. I got the seals off and now I can NOT get the spacer moved over enough to hit the bearing, I get it moved over enough to hit the inside lip and slide off. I have tried hitting it with steel drifts to move it over but no dice on either side. Moved a tiny more on the r/h side but still not enough to hit the bearing.

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by Pancala; 03-14-2012, 10:44 AM.
    1979 XS1100F
    1980 XS1100SG(First bike, sold)

    Other bikes
    1976 Kawasaki KZ400 (project)
    1983 Yamaha XV920 Midnight Special
    1984 Yamaha XT250 Enduro (project)

  • #2
    Sorry for the fuzzy pics, but squint and you'll see what I mean....There's a collar on the spacer that keeps it from falling away when you pull the axle. It's located on the side OPPOSITE the axle nut. I drove two finishing nails through the bearing to slide that collar down far enough to let the spacer fall away into the wheel cavity. Then, i had all the room i wanted to use a drift. Re-position the collar when you're ready to put everything back together.



    Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Pancala View Post
      After finishing the bearings and seals in the rear tire I went ahead and started on the front. I got the seals off and now I can NOT get the spacer moved over enough to hit the bearing, - - -
      Hi Justin,
      you don't want the old bearings, right? If all else fails, try this:-
      Attack the bearing cage with your Dremel tool and remove the outer half.
      Now you can slide all the balls around to one side which will let you pull the inner race to the other side and remove it.
      Remove the loose balls.
      Now you can put a drift on the bearing spacer tube and drive out the other bearing.
      With that lot gone you can get at the outer race to remove it.
      Fred Hill, S'toon
      XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
      "The Flying Pumpkin"

      Comment


      • #4
        I ended up taking a stainless drift and destroying the inner bearing and pushing them all to one side then taking the center off. Took me a while to drive out the outer part of the bearing but thankfully I'm done! Now just waiting on one bearing that they sent that was the wrong size

        Thank you for all of the help!
        1979 XS1100F
        1980 XS1100SG(First bike, sold)

        Other bikes
        1976 Kawasaki KZ400 (project)
        1983 Yamaha XV920 Midnight Special
        1984 Yamaha XT250 Enduro (project)

        Comment


        • #5
          I wish I had read this earlier but may still be able to help some with putting new bearing in. I have had a bearing hang in the aluminum wheel before and the Yamaha dealer showed me the easy way. The aluminum expands quicker than the steel so if you use a propane tourch and heat the aluminum wheel moving the flame arround the bearing area so as to not burn the paint and also evenly heating the bearing area and when it gets hot put the wheel over a large bucket tap the race from the other side it pops out without having to beat it out. The other part is spray it clean then spray WD-40 on the wheel and the new bearing should slide in without banging on it. However you do need to keep the seals out till the wheel is cooled. Before putting the wheel on the bike run the axel threw the new bearings to insure a snug fit. I got a bearing once that was not snug on the axel and caused wobble. I have seen people sand the corrosion off the axel and if done enough it makes the axel loose in the bearing which can cause wobble also.
          To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

          Rodan
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
          1980 G Silverbird
          Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
          1198 Overbore kit
          Grizzly 660 ACCT
          Barnett Clutch Springs
          R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
          122.5 Main Jets
          ACCT Mod
          Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
          Antivibe Bar ends
          Rear trunk add-on
          http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

          Comment


          • #6
            Also, leave your new bearing in the freezer overnight. This makes installation easier
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

            Comment


            • #7
              I was able to get everything out and cleaned up but after putting the bearings back in I find that I cannot turn the bearings by hand, maybe because they are both pressed against the tube in the middle? Will this be acceptable to use as it is?
              1979 XS1100F
              1980 XS1100SG(First bike, sold)

              Other bikes
              1976 Kawasaki KZ400 (project)
              1983 Yamaha XV920 Midnight Special
              1984 Yamaha XT250 Enduro (project)

              Comment

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