Calling all Pods

[Nubian]

I am in the middle of my carb rebuild (cleaning that is ) and am seriously considering eliminating the stock air box. I understand that it was designed and runs best that way but it just seems to always be in the way. I am keeping my OEM exhaust though. On disassembly I see that I have 110 main jets across the board. I have previously read that some members have made the switch and did not need to re-jet.

Would those lucky, I believe few, chime in as to there location and elevation?

[petejw]

im running 115 with uni pods and 4-2-1,
try it with the 110's or just bump them up a
cpl of sizes.

[Diskman01]

I did the jet juggle when I got my XS as the PO put pods on.. Decided that the stock 110s were fine. Sparkplugs are fine after driving many interstate miles. My LOW end is a tad rich tho.. Never did figure out why. Tried swapping smaller low-speed jets to no avail. Just makes it run gaspy.

I'm runnin generic pods and some sort of no-name 4 into 1 exhaust with little baffle. Stock jets.

Try it with the pods first. Also, I suggest the rubber 2 to 2.5? plumbing adapters if you use pods.

This thread is what I went by..
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...+pipe+adapters

Good luck!

[XJfan1]

My xj has a set of k&n pods on it with the stock jets and seems to run fine.

[trbig]

Your stock jets will work, but I finally went up one size and it runs a little better and cooler going down the road. Two sizes was too rich. Main jets are cheap... so experiment. Since you'll have pods on, taking the carbs in and out to do so wil be a snap! I'm running stock exhaust by the way.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Nubian,

Shortly after I got my 81SH back to the states, I put on a set of 4-1 pipes, and ran it that way for 9 years without rejetting. I know this is not the setup you're asking about. The later models were jetted a bit leaner due to emission standards, but it didn't cause any internal damage, no burned pistons and such, and I had power to redline.

The Pods will breath in easier than the 4-1 pipes allowed breathing out, and it's the intake that gets leaned up quicker with the Pods, so like Tod said, you may benefit from a size up bump, but you might also want to take it slow and monitor your mileage with the 110's as well as performance, and then when/if you go up a size, again monitor the mileage, you may get better throttle response with the larger jets, but might actually loose an mpg or so?? YMMV!

Also as stated, the XS performance brand K&N clones from MikesXS are good filters and don't have the protruding mounting lip that the cheap EMGO cone pods do, so mounting is easier with them vs. having to use some variation of velocity stack/tube to prevent interference from the cone pod mounting lip!

T.C.

PS, the jet sizes are in 2.5 increments, so 110, then 112.5, then 115, etc.!

[bikerphil]

If you cut the snorkel of the airbox off 1" from it's base and eliminate the top center bracket, the airbox can come out very easily before the carbs, making removal/installation a breeze. No loss of power notacible with the mod, no rejetting, etc.

[Rasputin]

The five minute removal and install will show you how easy it is to deal with the airbox. Way easier to do than all the rejetting etc. I have pods on one of my bikes and will stick to the stock or drilled airbox every time over doing the jetting dance.
Seems to me that it is in the maintenance section of the forum but a quick lokk will find it.

[Nubian]

Well, Mikes XS pods are mounted!
I found that the pre-synch tip using the twist wire left way too much of a gap. Had to set it at very little daylight coming through for it to run. Now I'm having a hell of a time trying to fine tune it.
btw I kept the stock 110's and 4-2 exhaust.
Oh and which is best screw or plug terminal top type? and what is the optimal spark plug gap? FSM gives a range (.023 - .032)

Yours truly

[trbig]

Now I'm having a hell of a time trying to fine tune it.

Do you have a good synch gauge or are you trying to do this by ear?

[tinman905]

The pre-synch tip using the twist wire is used more so you can get the bike started . You will need to sync your carbs now.

[trbig]

Also.. I suggest throwing away all the bread-ties. Inside the throat of the carbs at the top, there are 3 small holes.









When you go to install the carbs the first time, adjust the butterflies so that the front edge of the butterfly splits the first hole right in the middle like so...









This gets the bike started and you can synch it from there.

[Nubian]

By ear. I made a synch tool on the cheap.

Do you have a good synch gauge or are you trying to do this by ear?

[Nubian]

Thanks, that really helps. Now how about that darn idle mix screw.

Also.. I suggest throwing away all the bread-ties. Inside the throat of the carbs at the top, there are 3 small holes.









When you go to install the carbs the first time, adjust the butterflies so that the front edge of the butterfly splits the first hole right in the middle like so...









This gets the bike started and you can synch it from there.

[trbig]

No wonder you're having trouble tuning it. One gauge set-ups suck. Nothing personal, but as you adjust one, it changes the others. You may EVENTUALLY be able to get it, but man, that's sure the tough way to do it.

Once you get the bike to idle OK, you can slowly screw in the adjustment screws. When you hear a change in the idle, back it out 1 to 1 1/4 turns. You may have to do this a few times to each carb as you get the others closer to where they should be. Of course, after getting this done, you'll need to synch those carbs again..

Also.. when adjusting the idle mixture screws, do it very delicately with just two fingers. If you notice a point where the screw gets a little tighter, STOP!!! Don't twist it any more, or you could end up with the tips stuck in the carb body. When you back it back out, the tips can stay wedged and break off.