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Removing head cover without removing engine???

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  • Removing head cover without removing engine???

    I was going through a PDF copy of the XS1100E service manual, and I noticed that on two separate occasions it mentions that the cylinder hear cover can be removed without removing the engine. First, in the section for valve clearance adjustment, and then again in a note in the engine disassembly section that reads:

    "NOTE: Cylinder head and cylinder can be removed without removing engine."

    This is extremely intriguing to me, as it is something I would like to do, in order to custom paint the head with some high heat engine paint, but when I tried to remove it a few months ago without removing the engine, in order to seal up a leak in the gasket, I could only raise it up about 1/2" before it hit the frame (which was enough to RTV the leak), but there was no way to get it to clear the cam chain sprokets.

    Now, I don't have an E, I've got an SG, but I'm not sure if there's that big of a difference in the frames that would allow it on one and not the other.

    I've pretty much had to talk myself out of the painted head for now, because it's not something I want to pull the whole engine just to do, but if it was possible to pull just the head cover, I'd do it in a second. Is there something I'm missing? Is there anyone that's checked valve clearances on an '80 SG, with the engine still in the frame, that could give me any pointers?

    I'm looking forward to any help I can get.
    Last edited by mr_misfit138; 02-05-2012, 04:57 AM.
    -Whatever it is, it's better in the wind.

    1980 XS1100SG - "Bluesy Suzy"
    -Oil cooler
    -TKAT Fork Brace
    -Drilled Airbox w/ K&N
    -Engine guards
    -Speed Bleeders
    -TC's blade fuse block (waiting to be installed)

  • #2
    I know it sounds silly, but go to the section that describes engine removal. There are a couple of things you need to remove from the upper frame so the valve cover will clear the frame. I'm fairly certain it's covered in the engine removal section. IIRC, the horn bracket and the ballast resistor are in the way.
    Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

    Comment


    • #3
      You did remove the fuel tank, right?...

      That's the only thing that could prevent you from getting the cam cover out that I can think of. There's all kinds of room, unless your bike has been modified somehow...
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

      Comment


      • #4
        I did remove the horn bracket, but I definitely didn't remove the ballast resistor. I would like to say with confidence that I had the tank off, because at the time I did it, I was constantly working on carbs and fuel lines, so the tank usually resided elsewhere. I'll have to take a closer look next time I dig into it and make sure that frame hasn't been modified. I've noticed that there are a lot of things that the PO had done, but I hope that the frame wasn't on his list. It definitely doesn't have any major changes to it, so I doubt he altered it. I probably just had a brain fart and had left overlooked something simple.
        -Whatever it is, it's better in the wind.

        1980 XS1100SG - "Bluesy Suzy"
        -Oil cooler
        -TKAT Fork Brace
        -Drilled Airbox w/ K&N
        -Engine guards
        -Speed Bleeders
        -TC's blade fuse block (waiting to be installed)

        Comment


        • #5
          I pulled the head and the jugs off with the engine in the frame. nothing to it.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #6
            What was the cover hitting that it couldn't be raised mor than 1/2"? I've had several off with the engine in the frame.
            Greg

            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

            ― Albert Einstein

            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

            The list changes.

            Comment


            • #7
              It is like a chinese puzzel. It will clear.
              Skids (Sid Hansen)

              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

              Comment


              • #8
                Sometimes the balast resister mount welded to the frame has been bent down to make it easier it install and remove the resister (PO). You may want to bend it back up to avoid a scratch when jiggling the valve cover off. If the cover screws are left in the cover even loose they hang so take them out. Others may have replaced the coils and made special mounts that interfeer but they should be able to be removed. If those do not give room send a picture I am sure someone here can help.
                To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                Rodan
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
                1980 G Silverbird
                Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
                1198 Overbore kit
                Grizzly 660 ACCT
                Barnett Clutch Springs
                R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
                122.5 Main Jets
                ACCT Mod
                Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
                Antivibe Bar ends
                Rear trunk add-on
                http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

                Comment


                • #9
                  If that's an otherise good runnin motor, removin' head/cyls. to just paint???......and not soundin' really confident/mechanically inclined.........might wanna re-think your choices IMO....
                  81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've had the cover off my SG a few times now. I've found that removing the ballast resistor is key.
                    That gives me more room to get the cover out and over the cam sprokets.
                    I also pull the plug wires up thru the frame to get them out of the way too.
                    I've had to move the cover forward and back to get the right spot to clear the cam sproket.
                    Just don't get fustrated and it'll come out. I think it's easier if it goes to the left side as it comes out.
                    Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

                    80G (Green paint(PO idea))
                    The Green Monster
                    K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
                    Got him in '04.
                    bald tire & borrowing parts

                    80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
                    Scarlet
                    K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
                    Got her in '11
                    Ready for the twisties!

                    81H (previously CPMaynard's)
                    Hugo
                    Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
                    Cold weather ride

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I've had several off. It's like a Chinese puzzle... you know, one of those things that are two bits of bended wire. You jiggle and twist and eventually they part and you don't know how you did it. That's that I found the camcover to be like. There's a definite twist and tilt and move forward/backward involved....
                      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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