Need help with wiring. So lost

[Mrtinajero]

So I found out why my turn signals weren't working. I opened up my turn signal component and found some wires are no longer connected. I need help. show me what goes where. I can solder it but the diagram makes no sense to me. Help please

[mack]

It can bet done

The guys your going to want to listen to here are 3 phase, or if we are all lucky Geezer will come back on line. I can pull mine and have a look as to what goes where but, these two can rebuild them better than original.

[ViperRon]

I will try to get my spare switch out and take a picture tomorrow and send you which wire which terminal. You may want to soak the switch in something to clean it inside as well. Typically when the conections on the outside let loose there is corrosion inside also. I have used tarnex before then rinsed with an electrical contact cleaner. Someone here may have an alternate choice for cleaning the contacts but the green build up is not easy to break and I have found tarnex is very aggressive. You will then need some dilectric grease for it as cleaning will dry the contacts and it will not slide in a day or so if you do not lubricate. The alternate choice is completely take loose the switch but often they crumble. I would try to clean the existing wire and tin it rather than strip it clean as you need the wires about the correct length also.

Its not only the correct wire to the correct terminal. You need to get the orientation of the wires correct. There is not much space in there and if you have to put much force on the wires they tend to break loose again.


Pictures comming tomorrow evening unless someone else sends them tonight.

[BA80]

With this SWITCH all you need to do is rewire the plug and it'll be brand new.

[crazy steve]

You'll never figure it out from the 'full' diagram, you need to go to the 'unit repair' section, page 10-14 in the FSM. The Clymer manual doesn't have this info. Don't have the FSM?...

You can identify the contacts this way; with the hazard switch in the 'off' position, you'll have continuity between the two brown/white wires (or between the one that's hooked up and one solder point), between one point and the 'solder strip' with no wire connected (connect the 'chocolate' to this point), and the last point is the brown/yellow.

When the hazard switch is turned to 'on', you'll have continuity between the chocolate, dark green, and brown/yellow wires; the brown/white will now be open.

[cywelchjr]

I'll go out and take a picture of my spare switch which is still properly wired a little later tonight and post it up here and make sure the colors show.

And Greg, that MikesXS switch takes close to a master electrician to make work on a later bike cause it doesn't have the hazard switch so you have to figure out how to wire around all that, which would be more work than just fixing the stupid switch. My spare is sitting pretty much fully open in my garage, so I just need to slide that part out a little after taking a couple screws out to take a pic of it.

[BA80]

Ok Cy, I hadn't thought of the hazard switch. But, a master electrician? I think not.

I hadn't thought of the hazard switch because I've only used mine twice. Once to see if it worked and once when a friend had slipped off the road in the twisties.

Don't the later 650s have that?

[crazy steve]

I'll go out and take a picture of my spare switch which is still properly wired a little later tonight and post it up here and make sure the colors show..

Yeah, I couldn't do a pic because the spare '80-81 switch I have is boogered worse than his....

[cywelchjr]

Ok Cy, I hadn't thought of the hazard switch. But, a master electrician? I think not.

I hadn't thought of the hazard switch because I've only used mine twice. Once to see if it worked and once when a friend had slipped off the road in the twisties.

Don't the later 650s have that?

I don't know if the later 650's have those or not, but the MikesXS switch doesn't have it, and you have to really understand the wiring to bypass it, which is harder to do than to just fix the flippin switch in the first place. Fixing the switch requires nothing more than soldering the wires back in the right places, a good picture of the wires if the right places will do. I'm going to attempt another test ride this evening (got cleared to ride yesterday, got the bike rideable today) and when I'm out there I'll pull out the switch and take a picture, upload it to photobucket and post it tonight when I get back from my test ride when I'll have figured out if I can handle the pain in my left ring finger I discovered on my first ride today. I'm going to try both some cold and heat later tonight, I plan on riding more, I'll deal with the pain .

[jetmechmarty]

No XS650 has hazard lights.

[BA80]

I fixed the first one on my SG and it lasted about a year before it screwed up again. Maybe because I'm not a master electician.

Glad to hear your getting the scoot and you back on the road bro'.

Pain don't hurt..........

[crazy steve]

To use the non-hazard switch on a bike that originally had the hazard, the only change you need to make (besides the plug differences) is to kill power to the hazard wire (brown/yellow) by unplugging the hazard flasher. All other wires match in color and function....

[jetmechmarty]

You could move the hazard switch some place else. Run the wires to a bar mounted on/off switch.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Steve,

I was going to take a photo of mine, but then remembered that I had to replace my switch in 2000 with my rebuild! I used an earlier model (no hazard) switch on mine from a wrecker, and I don't recall having to make any changes to the actual plug. I did want to keep my 4 way flasher function so I found the power wire from the HAZARD flasher under the seat, not the turn signal flasher, and then spliced into the green and brown signal wires using a DPDT switch, split the power from the flasher to both sides of the DPDT but wired it to one end pair of poles, and then connected the outputs center poles of the DPDT to the respective green and brown wires going to the turn signals where I spliced into the harness.

Throw the switch to one end, it cuts out the turns, and powers all 4 signals for ER flashers, throw the switch the other way, and it cuts out the ER flasher and lets the separate turn signal power get thru for each signal side! Mounted the switch to the frame under the left side cover, since I don't have an air box, easy access.

I know this doesn't necessarily help Mrtinajero, but like Steve said, the wiring is the same for all of the other switches aside from the hazard. Hopefully the colors will be the same, but might not?? But using the wiring diagram he should be able to figure out what wires that are loose are for what circuit.

Still would be nice for someone with an 81/hazard switch to post a photo for him!

Wondering what harm would be done to solder the loose wires to where he might think they go, and then turn the key on and test it? Maybe blow a fuse? Would probably be better to get out the testmeter and find out which wire is hot, etc.!

T.C.

PS, Happy belated B'day Marty...didn't see your post until I posted mine, then had to edit it!

[cywelchjr]

As requested

Here is the picture of the assembly with all the wires in place, the one to the left is the brown/yellow and the one to the right is the brown/white just in case you can't tell.