Fuse Box

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Canal

As much as I like to slide into a warm wet slippery canal, I will try to keep my bike out of them, although the shaft does love it

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae34/lonkross/P1000615.jpg

That area behind the sidecover won't get wet (well maybe just a little) unless you ride the bike into a canal.

[Cobia]

The way I mounted the fuse block

Hey Lon,
I took a different approach with my fuseblock. I got it from TC and it didn't come witht he rear gasket, guess it was an earlier model. I haven't had any issues with it. Anyway, here you go...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20011

Hope it helps.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Thanks

Mine is a 79SF, so I dont need the angle, got lots of room under the sidecover so I am thinging just drill out the right side hole up closer to the top and should fit right in. I am going to use the weather backing also, why not, cant hurt

Hey Lon,
I took a different approach with my fuseblock. I got it from TC and it didn't come witht he rear gasket, guess it was an earlier model. I haven't had any issues with it. Anyway, here you go...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20011

Hope it helps.

[DGXSER]

I've put the TC fuse box in about 4 bikes now I believe. Two of mine, Steppenwolfs, and Varnae's I recall. I have not seen that back cover yet. I always eliminate the Aux fuse and incorporate it into the fuse box. I have alternated on incorporating the main fuse, I know I did not on Thunderstruck, and have on Banshee. I forget if I did on the other two or not. On Banshee there was not alot of choice as the main fuse was removed along with all the rest before I got the bike. On that one I also had to make my own bracket to hang the fuse box, flasher, and starter solenoid as it had also been ditched.

Here is what I ended up with on Banshee. So far works fine.


You can see the last terminal in the fuse box has the positive terminal of the aux system attached with no fuse in it. The ground wire is attached to one of the mounting screws just like from the factory.

[cywelchjr]

That backplate isn't a seal, it's an additional retainer for the fuse contacts which just snap into the plastic housing. These boxes aren't sealed unless you apply sealer to all seams. Even at that, you still have the exposed tabs where the wires hook up for a corrosion point...

As far as running parallel fuses, don't do it. Even the slightest difference in resistance between the two sockets will bias the current to the lower resistance and you'll likely have issues. That appears to be the same panel as TC sells (and I've seen them elsewhere too) and all those can use a 30 amp fuse. Also keep in mind that a particular fuse size doesn't mean that's how much current you need. Fuses shouldn't be run any higher than 80% of their rating or you'll have nuisance failures. Realistic values for circuit current are probably about 6-7 amps for the ignition system and about the same for lighting, everything else is intermittent loads so your 'normal' load on the box is under 15 amps...

And actually normal circuit design in low voltage DC circuits when fusing is to fuse for either 150% or 200% of expected normal current, so depending on the number the Yamaha engineers used, the 30 amp circuit either is expected to draw about 25 amps or 10 amps. The 80% number is more typical for higher voltage AC circuits, for which design rules are generally different. This stuff was part of my electronics training in the army, which is why I'm familiar with the numbers.

[crazy steve]

...so depending on the number the Yamaha engineers used, the 30 amp circuit either is expected to draw about 25 amps or 10 amps..

80% of 30 is 24, so the two guidlines are pretty close. The problem here is knowing just what the individual components draw. Lighting is easy; 60W for the headlight, 32W for tail/running (4X8), instrument 13.6W (3.4X4) for a total of 105.6W or 8.8 amps. Add in the brake lights, and it jumps to 13.3. This is assuming a 12V source; use 14V and it may drop some (11.4 amps 'calculated') but without the design data from the manufacturer hard to say just how much. But how much does the ignition draw? Or the turn flasher? Canceller? Horn? Unless you go through and do measurements on all these (beyond the scope of most owners), stick with the factory fuse sizes...

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Pic

Not in the pic, but I went with the OEM rating 30amp, 10amp,20amp and 10amp, only mine are reverse order as the wires were to short to reach after I remover all the splices

80% of 30 is 24, so the two guidlines are pretty close. The problem here is knowing just what the individual components draw. Lighting is easy; 60W for the headlight, 32W for tail/running (4X8), instrument 13.6W (3.4X4) for a total of 105.6W or 8.8 amps. Add in the brake lights, and it jumps to 13.3. This is assuming a 12V source; use 14V and it may drop some (11.4 amps 'calculated') but without the design data from the manufacturer hard to say just how much. But how much does the ignition draw? Or the turn flasher? Canceller? Horn? Unless you go through and do measurements on all these (beyond the scope of most owners), stick with the factory fuse sizes...

[jetmechmarty]

I put mine in the order of the length of the wires and my daughter made me a nice label that looks like a factory installation. I'm not home to get a photo, but the installation came out nice and neat. The circuits are clearly marked, just like original. It's the second time I did it as I just replaced the entire wiring harness.