Valve Adjustment Pictorial

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  • XS1100_OEM4ME
    replied
    +1

    Originally posted by BA80
    Not knocking it Steve, just sayin' that all that work to change 2-5 shims (which is about all that's needed usually) seems a bit counter productive. Paticularly if you miscalculate the shim size and have to go back and correct yourself. Not to mention the other various things that could transpire during the process.

    But, to each his own. I'll stick with the tool.
    +1, no one any where I have seen recomend's taking so many chances with your motor and pulling so many things out of place and messing with the cam timining that if wrong, NEW MOTOR When it is sooooo easy to change shims with the MP tool I just striks me as funny that anyone who can pull cams and do major work can't seam to use such a simple tool, just shows how easy, isn't for everyone, just for the wise

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  • crazy steve
    replied
    The reason for the 'identified' holes is cam timing. You can install them 'backwards' with no harm, but it will throw your cam timing off by a very small amount (a few degrees). This isn't enough to cause any problems, but also isn't 'optimum' either. To be honest, I haven't given it any thought as to which way it changes the cam timing, so many people may not even notice any difference. But small changes like this can move the power curve around quite a bit. You'd probably have to strap the bike to a dyno to see the differences.

    The manuals don't mention this in any way, but all the pics (and every motor I've worked on) show the 'tabs' as noted...

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  • skids
    replied
    I don't doubt that it happens where the allignment isn't perfect when the sprockets are "upside down." I just don't understand why it happens. Aren't the teeth on the sprockets even in number? If so, how can this occur? Does this mean that two sets of valves are going to be slightly out while the other two sets (relative to two cylinders at any given time) are going to be right on?

    I wish someone would explain this to me because I have done the same thing as LoHo with my three xs11's. They do run well, but maybe not optimum? Steve, what is your take on this?

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  • LoHo
    replied
    Skids, I don't think so...the tabbed holes must be on top, If this thread is correct.

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  • skids
    replied
    So I guess you are good to go! Right?

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  • LoHo
    replied
    Sure enough...pointer at T, dots on arrows...neither tabbed sprocket hole showing.

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  • LoHo
    replied
    Just so I'm clear, when the timing is right:
    -the timing plate hash next to the T lines up with the pointer
    -the EX and IN cam dots line up with the cam cap pointers
    -the cam sprockets both show the bolt holes with the little tabs, the exhaust one slightly forward and the intake sprocket pointing slightly rearward.

    Is that right?

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  • old_chopper
    replied
    Since we've officially hijacked the thread...I use a doubled over zip tie to slightly hold the valve open then pull the shim. I feed the zip tie thru the spark plug hole between the open valve and seat and rotate the engine to close the valve. Costs about 25 cents and is super easy. I've used this method on Suzuki GS (8 valve) and my XS.

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  • LoHo
    replied
    Are the little tabs on the sprocket bolt holes mentioned in Clymer's? I noticed them, but didn't know their importance...now I have to go check, dammit!

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    Originally posted by mack
    Pam's the way to go if your not using RTV
    Yep, and the engine smells like a pizza parlor for a few hundred miles, lol.

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  • mack
    replied
    Pam

    Pam's the way to go if your not using RTV. You'll probaly never have to buy another gasket as long as your careful about hooking them on something while removing them.

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  • GLoweVA
    replied
    Originally posted by Petersg_99
    If I get a new valve cover gasket, can you remove and reinstall the valve cover multiple times, or is the valve cover gasket only good for 1 or 2 times?

    What about the camshaft plugs? Do they need to be replaced when you pull the valve cover?
    The camshaft plugs should be good for years. (as long as they don't get damaged/nicked, etc.)
    Some/most don't use a valve cover gasket, they use yamabond or some other RTV that they like.
    I've reused my gasket quite a few times, but the hard spot with that is the gasket gets brittle and may break, thus creating a leak at that location.

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    If you spray the new gasket with Pam cooking spray, you can remove it and use it over again. The cam plugs can be re-used, just put a bead of RTV around all edges when installing. I myself just use RTV and no gasket.

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  • natemoen
    replied
    Could use rtv and not waste time with the gasket. Cam plugs can just stay there. Don't remove them, if you do put a good layer of rtv on them before reinstal.

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  • Petersg_99
    replied
    If I get a new valve cover gasket, can you remove and reinstall the valve cover multiple times, or is the valve cover gasket only good for 1 or 2 times?

    What about the camshaft plugs? Do they need to be replaced when you pull the valve cover?

    Leave a comment:

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