diaphragm

[old_skool]

The reply I got from one ebay seller is he applied it to a stick, then soaked in gasoline overnite, with no affects, that was the liquid tape by plasti dip, he was willing to experiment for me, so I'll do the same.

[skids]

I have used Ultra Black RTV and it is flexible, and stuck well (after cleaning the diaphragm). Been working for a long time.

[old_skool]

How did you apply it? Finger, cue tip?? Seriously though, does it state safe for gasoline?

[Rasputin]

Liquid tape worked fine on mine for two years now. You have to put it on the top side of the diaphragms only. There is no fuel...only air gets there...YMMV

[skids]

How did you apply it? Finger, cue tip?? Seriously though, does it state safe for gasoline?

I think I did use my finger.

[skids]

I think I did use my finger.

It will stand up to vapors. There shouldn't be much vapors in there anyway.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Finger

I think I did use my finger.

I get in more trouble when I do that, especialy if it still smells funny when the woman gets home

[skids]

Always use a fork when eating sardines!

[old_skool]

ok, went the liquid tape route, all pinholes gone, will have to see how they work, will prob take pics of finished carb in a few days, and its supposed to warm up in the 40's again in a few days, so may get them installed and tested, think I'm going to double down and do the same to the fuel intaks, they have more than micro cracks...

[James England]

ok, went the liquid tape route, all pinholes gone, will have to see how they work, will prob take pics of finished carb in a few days, and its supposed to warm up in the 40's again in a few days, so may get them installed and tested, think I'm going to double down and do the same to the fuel intaks, they have more than micro cracks...

If the cracks on the manifolds don't go all the way through, I wouldn't bother. They're double skinned and the inners are often perfect when the outsides look awful.

Personally, I would fix your diaphragms properly. I would think a coating, however thin, will affect the elasticity of the diaphragms and, if you bit he financial bullet and fix it properly, you'll be better off in the long run

[old_skool]

Right now its a financial machine gun, not a single bullet...but if I have to tear them down again, I guess I won't have been the first XS-er to have to pull the carbs again and again and....but seriously, they're already dry, no light showing through, and believe it or not, just as pliable...hmmmmm, now if the fuel/fumes don't affect them.

[3Phase]

Aside from dissolving patches, another problem I ran into was that even after a light coat of plastic the diaphragms were a little too stiff and that kicked up the fuel consumption.

I had to carefully spot-treat and patch only the holes and the slides still didn't really move the way they should. The patches worked for a short-term fix but in the long run it didn't take very many gallons of wasted $3 or $4 gas to exceed the cost of a new set of diaphragms.

[old_skool]

Aside from dissolving patches, another problem I ran into was that even after a light coat of plastic the diaphragms were a little too stiff and that kicked up the fuel consumption.

I had to carefully spot-treat and patch only the holes and the slides still didn't really move the way they should. The patches worked for a short-term fix but in the long run it didn't take very many gallons of wasted $3 or $4 gas to exceed the cost of a new set of diaphragms.

Don't think I'm not taking everything you say to heart, If I notice any kind of extra fuel consumtion or other related issue, I'll go ahead and change them sooner than later, their on the list of to do's, just not todays list. I appreciate all the great experience your sharing on the matter, if I had it my way, this winter it would have went to bare frame and correctly rebuilt, but that again is a later adventure.

[3Phase]

Not trying to talk you out of it, just giving you a heads-up in case the diaphragms are hardened or rotted.

I was in almost exactly that same situation you're in when I dug into the carburetors on Columbo. The patches worked okay at first but the bike had sat for too many years so the rubber was going bad.

When the slides moved the rubber tried to roll with them but it would split next to a patch. Gas and fumes would go through the new holes to the top of the diaphragm and melt the patch so I'd have to make a bigger patch; then a bigger patch to patch the patched patch; then... well, you get the idea. After a few months and a few thousand miles even the 'good' diaphragms that didn't have holes or patches in them started to leak and they had to be fixed, too.

[ViperRon]

Diaphrams

One thing to keep in mind is that what ever approach you take to repair the diaphrams it is only a temporary fix. If small holes have developed its an indication the rubber is breaking down for a reason. Its possible some PO cleaned them with something that is now breaking down the rubber. You can buy the best solution to repair and in a little while have a new hole to repair. If I had little money to spend I'd do a proper prep and temporarily repair with the dip as it will coat the entire surface hense giving you the best chance for current and developing holes being sealed. Understand in the long term you need a plan to replace them.

With the intakes make sure you use a high temp rubber or silicone sealant as the regular rubber sealants will crack and come appart quickly. Make sure to allow the sealant to cure fully before you run the bike as there is more movement than you think.


Good luck Ron