Disassembly question 1980 SG

[barrelguy]

I'm in the midst of doing a winter clean and polish along with some maintenance. I want to take off the clutch and alternator covers to use my bench mounted buffing wheels and want to know what to expect upon removal.

Clutch cover - my manual says simply to remove the clutch cable but makes no mention of removing the release arm. Any hints on how to get that stubborn nut loose?

Alternator cover - same manual and it says not to remove the 3 allen screws in the middle of the cover. Why not? Also says to disconnect the battery and some wiring with an aim to removing the alternator itself. I just want the cover off for cleaning. Should I anticipate anything frightening (bits and pieces falling out) if I just remove the cover? What is attached to the inside of this thing?

Thanks as always.

[petejw]

Clutch cover - my manual says simply to remove the clutch cable but makes no mention of removing the release arm. Any hints on how to get that stubborn nut loose?




Alternator cover - same manual and it says not to remove the 3 allen screws in the middle of the cover. Why not? Also says to disconnect the battery and some wiring with an aim to removing the alternator itself. I just want the cover off for cleaning. Should I anticipate anything frightening (bits and pieces falling out) if I just remove the cover? What is attached to the inside of this thing? Thanks as always.

you shouldnt have to remove the lever that can stay with the casing, but in saying that when u reassemble ull want to be able to adjust the clutch.


the stator is attached to that casing, its been ages since ive had that cover
off to have it buffed, but once u remove the alt casing there shouldnt be any dramas in removing the 3 allen bolts to remove the stator to polish.

[DGXSER]

Like Pete said, removing the clutch cover is very simple. First remove the two phillips head screws holding the small cover for the adjustment area, and then bend th small tab and remove the cable after loosenign at the clutch lever. Then, pull the ten or so bolts holding the full clutch cover on. Either drain the oil, or put the bike on the side stand and no or very little oil will leak out.

As to the alternator cover, I believe you will find the wires are attached to that cover and need to be removed with it. The three allen scres do hold the stator in place, my thought is that it may be spaced just so in its mounting and never pull those screws. You could polish with it in place if you cover with a bag nicely.

[Schming]

Buffing...

One thing to be careful of, when buffing, is the oil level sight glass which is plastic and will easily burn with too much pressure. I put a few layers of painters tape on mine to protect it when I polished. Also I didn't remove the stator as the bolts were on there to stay and just taped it off too.

[Danny Crawdad]

Note on the clutch cover removal, one of the bolts on my SH was behind the footpeg. I had to loosen the footpeg a little and rotate it out of the way to get to it, but it wasn't a big deal.

[cywelchjr]

My G was the same way, the right footpeg has to be rotated backwards a bit which requires loosening the rear engine mounting bolt a little so it can move first.

[Schming]

Pic of hidden bolt...





Once You polish, stainless bolts are the icing on the cake

[barrelguy]

So far, so good! Both covers removed without incident, polishing tomorrow. One further query - for ease of handling the alternator cover around the buffing wheels, is it advisable (or not) to remove the stator and the winding apparatus? Making sure everything goes back in the same way it came out.

[mack]

Stator etc.

You can remove the three screws and pull the stator out. The windings will also come out no problem just remember the orientation and use the correct size screw drivers. You don't want to strip anything. Also the site glass in the clutch cover case is a pressed in friction fit. Its tight but will come out. I removed everything to have my LH covers powder coated.

[old_skool]

I removed everything to have my LH covers powder coated.

Approx how much did powder coating cost you for your covers each, what color did you go with?

[skids]

[IMG]http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx161/Schming_2009/PictureBikes063.jpg
Once You polish, stainless bolts are the icing on the cake

There is so much GLARE that my eyes are blinded for the details! (kidding, looks real nice man!)

[mack]

powder coating

Since this is a midnight special I went with high gloss black on everything.


I had everything bead blasted and the covers you can see, clutch, timing, stator, tranny, middle drive cover, and starter covers cost me about $75 canadian. The head was $200 as it was a more detailed job. The head light bucket, instrument cans, triple tree, stands etc came to another $125. I had the frame, tank, side covers and fenders done by someone else and they're done in automotive paint and laquered 3 times. That cost me close to $750. I know what your thinking, that bike isn't worth the money I have in paint. I'm sure I couldn't sell it for what I have into it, but since I'm not selling it anyway. To me it's worth every penny I'm putting into it. Don't even ask about this:

[Rasputin]

Looks way better than how far I plan to take mine. Koodoos to you!

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Stator

I pulled the windings out of the housing with no problem, just be careful with the wires and put everything back the way it came out

You can remove the three screws and pull the stator out. The windings will also come out no problem just remember the orientation and use the correct size screw drivers. You don't want to strip anything. Also the site glass in the clutch cover case is a pressed in friction fit. Its tight but will come out. I removed everything to have my LH covers powder coated.

[Schming]

There is so much GLARE that my eyes are blinded for the details! (kidding, looks real nice man!)

Thanxs Skids. I should've turned the flash off the pics are kinda blinding