Intro and Problems Running

[Laptop_geek]

Not beating a dead pony, but get the fuse box from TopCat and replace it before you even start thinking about the wireing stuff I was about to spend 100 bucks + on new coil's and found the fuse box fixed ALL my gremlins, good luck on your bike

See page one.

Sure-fire way to get the piston out is to install the caliper bleeder, pour a bit of fluid in the brake hose hole, then close that hole with a bolt. Open the bleeder a bit, then use a grease gun on the bleeder. Pump grease in until the piston comes out....

A mess to clean out, but this will remove even the most stubborn pistons.

Thanks for the help. I might try the grease gun, doesn't sound too bad. At least the grease doesn't ruin my paint... Both calipers are off the bike and its a PITA to bleed all the air out of the MC.

[Rasputin]

I have yet to find a caliper that I could not get oout with compressed air. If it will not blow out right away, I use a C clamp and push the piston all the way back in. Then I apply the air again. Usually the fact that it has a bit of travel before it hits the tight spot will punch it through. I have had to do it a couple of times in a row before it came out, but it is much easier and cleaner than grease gun jobs. Be very careful as they do come out with quite a bit of force and injury is a possibility. I generally use a couple of old blankets or pillows around them when I apply the air. That helps to cushion the piston when it flies out and helps protect me. I have done about 15 caliper rebiulds so far and while yours may be more stuck than any I have encountered I would say give it a try if you have not.

[Laptop_geek]

I have yet to find a caliper that I could not get oout with compressed air. If it will not blow out right away, I use a C clamp and push the piston all the way back in. Then I apply the air again. Usually the fact that it has a bit of travel before it hits the tight spot will punch it through. I have had to do it a couple of times in a row before it came out, but it is much easier and cleaner than grease gun jobs. Be very careful as they do come out with quite a bit of force and injury is a possibility. I generally use a couple of old blankets or pillows around them when I apply the air. That helps to cushion the piston when it flies out and helps protect me. I have done about 15 caliper rebiulds so far and while yours may be more stuck than any I have encountered I would say give it a try if you have not.

You must be able to run more pressure than I. I've tried it with two separate compressors on calipers for my 750 and the xs. Both times I was over or at 100 psi (I think around 120 the first time) and had no luck. The calipers were gummed up from sitting for so long both times.

[crazy steve]

I've quit using compressed air if they don't come out easily. Putting high pressure in there can be dangerous, as well as the possiblity of ruining the piston if it hits anything and nicks the sealing surface. Yes, you'll have to clean out grease if you use that method, but it's totally safe as the piston will ease out nice and slow and smoothly...

[skids]

Steve, I am not sure what the difference is. I know that there is some expansion energy stored with the gas pressure, but wouldn't the damage to the piston occur as the piston pushes through the obstruction(s)?

[BA80]

The grease gun is a little messy but it works every time. I've gotten them apart that way when they won't move in or out before.

[crazy steve]

Steve, I am not sure what the difference is. I know that there is some expansion energy stored with the gas pressure, but wouldn't the damage to the piston occur as the piston pushes through the obstruction(s)?

When you used compressed air on a badly stuck caliper piston, once it comes loose it shoots out quite violently; you could lose a chunk of finger if you have it in the way. You've also got the factor that if the piston strikes something (gets loose and hits the floor, bounces into the caliper body), you can nick the sealing surface, possibly ruining it. I've had just that happen (bounce off the caliper body, although not with a XS caliper) and had to replace a $50 piston... no more. The 'grease method' is much safer, works every time, and eliminates any possiblity of damage. It's just messy is all...

Don't get the idea I never use air; I'll always give 'em a quick shot to see if they'll move, and if they do I'll ease them out with short, low-pressure bursts of air. But if I have to put substained 100+ PSI on one, I'll switch to grease.

I've seen guys launch caliper pistons across a shop and through a wall with big air pressures.... not good...

[Rasputin]

I know it works for me. The thing is as BA80 says if it wont go in or out then air is never going to work. The thing I have found is if air does not work at first then I push the caliper back in. If I run across one that will not move after that then I will try the grease method. And Yes definetly one can cause damage to the piston or person so extreme caution must be used. Each of us has our preferred ways and they all work for us. I am just trying to point out how I deal with the problem. Many of us also face different climates, humidity etc. What works for one will perhaps not work for another.
Even full of this sludge my method has worked



It was like squeezing a zit when the sludge came out of the caliper when I used a C clamp to push the caliper in, but the piston popped right out. I have the luxury of having a few parts bikes which may make me take a few more chances with my parts but so far I am ok. Knock on wood.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Zit

"It was like squeezing a zit when the sludge came out"
you just had to go there

[Laptop_geek]

Is this the correct seat for a 1979 standard? I need to finish out the rear (I took off that rear...thing) and don't have the rear cowl for it. I want to make sure that whatever I get will fit. Also, does anyone have a close up of the rear that could show me how it all bolts up and goes together? It would be most helpful.

[crazy steve]

.....Is this the correct seat for a 1979 standard?

Nope.... looks like a '80-81 special seat. The '78-79 standard seat is straight along the lower edge and is 'flatter'. Here's what your seat should look like....http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/ads-br...-standard.html
That 'cowl' on the end is what covers up your TCI.

[crazy steve]

Here's what you're looking for.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Yamaha-...sories&vxp=mtr ... but this one is rusted out and mostly a POS...

[crazy steve]

Here's a decent one....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XS110...sories&vxp=mtr

[Laptop_geek]

Nope.... looks like a '80-81 special seat. The '78-79 standard seat is straight along the lower edge and is 'flatter'. Here's what your seat should look like....http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/ads-br...-standard.html
That 'cowl' on the end is what covers up your TCI.

Your awesome! What parts do I need to make it back to a standard? Looks like the standard seat will work with the special tank, yes?